Mercruiser 3.7 170

Ds2o18

Cadet
Joined
Aug 29, 2018
Messages
11
Just bought a boat in decent shape for 400 bucks, meter reads 175 hours. Brought it home to find out 2 cyclinders are full of water due to the spark plugs not being in. I have been reading on the head aches about the motor. My question is should I rebuild it or part it out.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,542
Its up to you, however unless the motor was under water, the water in cylinders would come from other locations vs the plug holes

You could swap in a 4.3
 

Ds2o18

Cadet
Joined
Aug 29, 2018
Messages
11
Got the heads off today, no signs of water coming from another place. Plugs missing was it I would say, plug threads are rusty. Really thinking about bringing it back to life. Where can I get a manual for the engine and any pitfalls I should be looking out for. It's a 1986 3.7 170
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,542
Got the heads off today, no signs of water coming from another place. Plugs missing was it I would say, plug threads are rusty. Really thinking about bringing it back to life. Where can I get a manual for the engine and any pitfalls I should be looking out for. It's a 1986 3.7 170

you can get a manual from Mercruiser https://publications.brunswick.com/

99% probability it was the head gasket that went first

the 470 was not a highly sought after motor
its sort of the platypus of motors - Mercruiser aluminum block and head, GM flywheel, mercury damper, custom crank, custom cam, ford FE iron head, ford FE rods and pistons.

gaskets, especially the head gasket has to be a mercury marine gasket. its the only head gasket that works

the floating bores and aluminum block with the iron head means that any change in temperature so much as a 10 degree rise in temperature, the head gasket would spit out.

hence the heat exchanger being required.

initially the 3" heat exchanger was offered, however the motor would still over-heat if a fish swam past the water pickup, so it was upgraded to a 4" to give it a bit more head room.

the cam snout was not hardened and as a result, the water pump seals would wear grooves in the cam snout and the water pump would start leaking coolant. make sure your has been fixed with the speedy sleaves.

the stock charging system is an outboard motor stator on the back side of the damper. the voltage regulator is what normally fails, and is really expensive, so an alternator conversion is normally done.

if your going to rebuild the motor, my suggestion is as follows:

get an edelbrock aluminum head for the 460 and have it modified by drilling the large hole for the 90 degree elbow

have a laser-cut block bore girdle made. it only needs to be 4 or 5mm plate. have it tack welded in place.

have the bores checked prior to any machine work. the most you can go is 0.030 over. after that there is not enough meat left and you may need to run sleeves.
 

Ds2o18

Cadet
Joined
Aug 29, 2018
Messages
11
Engine almost ready come out!! All that's left is disconnect from transom.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,542
The first thing to pull is the drive. You did pull the drive, correct?
 

alan ber

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 29, 2008
Messages
143
Mod edit...

Please read forum rules. NO selling, buy, trading of any sort.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Ds2o18

Cadet
Joined
Aug 29, 2018
Messages
11
Umm wasn't buying or selling. Well got motor out today, let the fun begin. Think I'm in good shape, can still see the honing in the walls of cylinders. Hopefully I can get itt on the stand and pull it apart, I'm hoping everything measures out. If so I'm going to just put in new rings.
 

Ds2o18

Cadet
Joined
Aug 29, 2018
Messages
11
Ok, you don't have to be an a-hole about it. Im not a everyday blogger or tech geek. I'm just trying to get some help redoing my boat. Sorry if I affended you with my uumm quote.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Whoa!!!! You took my response ALL wrong!!! I was only explaining what happened. There was NO negative intent towards you. I took NO offense. Trust me, I'm only here to help you with your project and give the best advice possible. It's very hard to know someones intent from written text.
One thing that would help you get the best advice is to post up Pics of your project. That way we can "SEE" what your describing and offer the best possible solution.

The members here ARE all about leading you to the best results possible based on their many years of Hands On Experience.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,542
Ok, you don't have to be an a-hole about it. Im not a everyday blogger or tech geek. I'm just trying to get some help redoing my boat. Sorry if I affended you with my uumm quote.

that would be an inappropriate response.

Mike (WOG) is one of the guys on the site that helps everyone and you took it the wrong way

Alan ber was soliciting a sale of parts to you which is against forum rules.
 

Ds2o18

Cadet
Joined
Aug 29, 2018
Messages
11
I'm sorry I took it out of context, not trying to make you guys mad for sure. I'm definitely going to need some help along the way. I get some pics for posted. It's a 1986 Larson dc17.5. Question for ya, going to replace the fuel pump and found one at summit carter M60337, is this the right one.
 

Ds2o18

Cadet
Joined
Aug 29, 2018
Messages
11
I'm having a hard time finding a carb rebuild kit also, it's a mercarb 3310 806079
 

Ds2o18

Cadet
Joined
Aug 29, 2018
Messages
11
Got the carb kit figured out, the fuel pump is another story. By looking at pics and reading I'm not sure what is the right one. The arm is straight but the new ones look to have a bend in it.
 
Top