1987 Regal sebring 195 VBR Build

[devildogae]

Hello friends!! Caleb here for another ski boat resto. I'm not even 100% complete on my first boat/first restore and I'm back at it. Its winter and I'm bored and cant help myself looking at facebook marketplace for boats. When I decided to pitch my wife the idea, I pretty much made a powerpoint presentation to make her see what I see. It WORKED!!! When I bought the first FB $200 back yard special, I had no idea what I was doing, or getting ready to endure.
This time I was much more prepared. I decided that if I thought this boat was going to be totally stripped to the hull, I didn't want to buy it, but I also realized it was a risk. I went to inspect this boat and I inspected it the best I could. I jumped on the deck in every place I could. I tapped the entire transom, ski locker and bilge stringer location. I jumped on the outdrive trying to flex the transom. Everything was very sturdy and sound. I did however find a slight soft spot in the deck right around the ski locker, on the front right corner. The boat was sitting uncovered and in the weather, so the risk was very real.
I know what your going to say, you can't ever really know, and if the deck is soft, most likely the stringers and transom are also. But I didn't find any evidence to the fact with what I could test. So I towed it home for $250 dollars. The boat has an Alpha 1 outdrive and Merc 165 224cui 4 cylinder banger. Guy said it was running when they parked it. I know how that goes. I checked the oil dip stick, good oil, no evidence of contamination. I know I'll have to do some work on the engine if I decide to keep it.
The gelcoat on the hull is in excellent condition, but just dirty from sitting under a tree. I smelled gas fumes when I got it home. I took the tank access floor up and the tank out. The screws were very very hard to get out with a screwdriver (good sign) All the screws I took out of the deck to get the lounge seats out were difficult by hand. I'm very hopeful that the stringers will not need replacement. All vinyl will need replacing, my wife wants to do this with me, so I'm stoked about that. I hooked a battery up and no power to guage panel with the key, I have yet to put a volt meter or investigate further. This is where I'm at. I will be posting as I go and would love to hear from my iboat friends. This boat accually looks to be built pretty well, I'm impressed.

 

[devildogae]

Here are a few pics

 

[devildogae]

[No message]

 

[devildogae]

Well I got most of the obstacles out of my way so I could pull the carpet. The carpet was very wet and nasty, and very wet under the carpet as well. They just hold moisture in. I doubt I will re-carpet the way the factory had it, but instead look into snap in carpet or similar. Thoughts?

I actually found silicone on the flooring under the carpet, looks like it was used to seal up joints There was no protection for the deck where the ski locker bracket sets, just open wood. No wonder that's where the worse of it was. SMH!!! I'm going to be replacing the whole deck for sure.

If I come into contact with partial stringer damage, is it possible to repair a section? What's the procedure for that, I've only ever just replaced the entire stringer.

I gave her port side a bath and used a hose on the inside to wash all the dirt and grime away. It will take a couple attempts. But she can air dry out now.

 

[mickyryan]

stringers look shot , i would recommend a top off restoration , or you are just throwing good money to bad... anywhere you see black on a stringer that is under the fiberglass is usually rot.
i would bet the transom needs work as well judging on how she was kept up..
I believe that's the 470 engine do some reading up, you might want to replace with a 3.0 merc other then that looks like the makings of a fun project with the missus

 

[devildogae]

stringers look shot , i would recommend a top off restoration , or you are just throwing good money to bad... anywhere you see black on a stringer that is under the fiberglass is usually rot.
i would bet the transom needs work as well judging on how she was kept up..
I believe that's the 470 engine do some reading up, you might want to replace with a 3.0 merc other then that looks like the makings of a fun project with the missus

Thanks for joining mickyryan!! Yea my screwdriver went all the way through the stringer where the fuel hoses went though. I was tapping along and got the dud sound right there. I'll have to see how bad they are. Thing is the boats sitting on a roller trailer. This boat there is no need to take the cap off. I can access everything. If I do starting replacing stringers, I will be one at a time as to not deform the hull. And I would need to form some sort of support for the hull. When I get the engine out I will be looking at the transom.

Yea I've done a lot of research on the 470, many hate it, few love it. I have a new starter and starter solenoid, fuel filter, oil filter and will put new fluids in it and try and get it running. It already has a 4" heat exchanger. I'm looking for a good Alt conversion for it, but will see if the stator is working. I have plans to use this engine. If you take care of it and know what your dealing with, shouldn't be that bad. I've rebuild a couple motors, so if I need to replace gaskets, no biggie.

 

[devildogae]

Got the engine running. Got it to idle pretty good, in the 750 rpm range. Used a timing light, but the light was scatter/erratic. I'll try moving my clip on for the light way from the distributor. It definitely has the coolant leak. I've priced out an aluminum head for this motor. Might as well put a new camshaft in it. Needs a new temp sender for sure, couldn't get any reading on it with my voltmeter. I'm thinking about roller rockers with the new Alu head. Would that effect my push rod length?

 

[mickyryan]

sounded good though

 

[devildogae]

Well I had a problem, the back of the boat was 6 feet from the ground as it sat on the trailer. That meant my cherry picker wasn't going to have the clearance to get this engine out. So I thought either pay $100 for a wrecker with crane to come to my house, or find a tree in my yard. I went with the tree. To be honest, it was pretty nerve racking at first, but that was a strong tree, and I had no problem getting that 4 cyl outta there.

Now it's time to start cutting and grinding and cover the boat. I need to clean up my garage before I start tearing into this engine, but as soon as I get a nice day, going to make some space and get her mounted to the stand. It was a good day and FREE also!!!!!

 

[devildogae]

What are thoughts of using this product to possibly seal up the underside and topside of my new deck I will be putting in? It says it can be painted also. If you could rubberize the entire deck and into the hull, then paint over it, and possibly carpet that with marine carpet, I would think that might keep water out for a very very long time.

Anyone know any negative characteristics of this product or the use on the deck?

 

[devildogae]

I must have the most boring thread in the world or something...sheesh

 

[boedekerj]

Personally. if you're looking for durability, most here would say that anything "1-part" is not going to last. Perhaps this: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Ole...75035&wl11=online&wl12=49527298&wl13=&veh=sem

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhmmm NO I would not recommend flex seal for ANYTHING on a boat. Resin and Glass are the Only things to use.Unfortunately there are NO short cuts for doing a proper restoration on a boat. Check the Links in my signature lines below.

 

[devildogae]

Uhmmm NO I would not recommend flex seal for ANYTHING on a boat. Resin and Glass are the Only things to use.Unfortunately there are NO short cuts for doing a proper restoration on a boat. Check the Links in my signature lines below.

Woodonglass, let me regress. My thoughts are:

-glass in new deck, proper tabbing, PB, ect.
-gelcoat or paint deck
-flex seal over prior
-marine carpet over flex seal rubber.

I may be nuts here, but that sounds water tight

 

[devildogae]

Personally. if you're looking for durability, most here would say that anything "1-part" is not going to last. Perhaps this: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Ole...75035&wl11=online&wl12=49527298&wl13=&veh=sem

That might just work. I know it's overkill, but when I took up the carpet in this boat, it was very wet between carpet and fiberglass. We all know resin is porous, but rubber isnt. An extra layer of insurance in my brain.

 

[mickyryan]

flex seal is just epdm rubber in spray able can "thinned" its a joke and would not use it when you can buy a whole 5 gallon pail for what two cans run lol i do things unorthodox on boats, to try new things and so far the best way i have found to do a open deck "exposed to elements constantly" is to use resin to coat bottom of wood then do a coat of 1708 2 times across top, do not drill into it without first oversize drilling , then filling and re drilling or you will ruin the work you have done to this point. for final coat my favorite is raptor liner sprayed at high pressure to give a suade type finish or go a lil lower to give it a slight texture. use 3/4 ply because bottom line folks aint skinny and jumping into boat cracks thin stuff then water penetrates and you are done.

 

[chevymaher]

flex seal is just epdm rubber in spray able can "thinned" its a joke and would not use it when you can buy a whole 5 gallon pail for what two cans run lol i do things unorthodox on boats, to try new things and so far the best way i have found to do a open deck "exposed to elements constantly" is to use resin to coat bottom of wood then do a coat of 1708 2 times across top, do not drill into it without first oversize drilling , then filling and re drilling or you will ruin the work you have done to this point. for final coat my favorite is raptor liner sprayed at high pressure to give a suade type finish or go a lil lower to give it a slight texture. use 3/4 ply because bottom line folks aint skinny and jumping into boat cracks thin stuff then water penetrates and you are done.

Done deal then.

 

[devildogae]

flex seal is just epdm rubber in spray able can "thinned" its a joke and would not use it when you can buy a whole 5 gallon pail for what two cans run lol i do things unorthodox on boats, to try new things and so far the best way i have found to do a open deck "exposed to elements constantly" is to use resin to coat bottom of wood then do a coat of 1708 2 times across top, do not drill into it without first oversize drilling , then filling and re drilling or you will ruin the work you have done to this point. for final coat my favorite is raptor liner sprayed at high pressure to give a suade type finish or go a lil lower to give it a slight texture. use 3/4 ply because bottom line folks aint skinny and jumping into boat cracks thin stuff then water penetrates and you are done.

Agreed people aren't skinny, I work in heathcare. Thanks for the advise. Will be using the 3/4 ply for sure. My last project I used CSM on the bottom, Two layers 1708 on top covered wtih a layer of CSM and then painted with textured marine paint. It water tight for sure. I do like your oversize drilling and filling ideas. Never let the water reach the wood.

 

[devildogae]

Got the block and head back from the machine shop, head was warped some so they shaved a little off the bottom to make it flat. It came back super clean, I'm very happy. This engine and boat project is taking a back seat to my current, more urgent boat and engine resto...