1981 Yar Craft Patriot Restoration, or not?

Twitches

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jan 30, 2018
Messages
36
Hello Everyone,

This weekend I started what everyone has assured me is going to be a long, painful, expensive process.

I am looking for opinions!

I got this boat last year from a friend who's Father passed and he made me a great deal on it. This is our first boat and we took it out a dozen or so times and had a blast each time. This confirmed for us that we would indeed like to have a boat and will get some use out of it. We are an active young family of 5 and it seems to fit well.

Last time out I noticed that the transom was actually flexing upon acceleration so we spent the day at the beach and the patriot is officially out of commission. I started into the floor assuming the stringers are bad as well and that is confirmed. With that said, it needs new stringers, new floor and a new transom.

I suppose one of my options would be to just take everything off the boat and cut up the hull and look for a new one in better shape. Problem with this is that I will have a lot more cost in a newer used hull (that might also need repair) than I might repairing the patriot. I considered a smaller aluminum boat but that will likely not have enough space/comfort for all five of us. The main thing that might save the patriot is that it is the right type of boat for us. It holds all of us comfortably and can still get up to 25 mph or so which is enough to have a little fun. Buying a newer boat of this type is out of the question financially and I don't want someone else's problem in a cheap used setup.

In favor of repairing would be the fact that I have about $1500 in the entire set up to include the motor, trolling motor, batteries, new wiring, new bimini, new cover, stereo system, lighting, trailer and support equipment. The motor is in like new shape, the steering and controls are all good and the hull itself has no apparent damage. If I were to spend $1k repairing the hull and transom i'd have a boat that I know is in sound condition for $2,500. So then the question becomes whether or not I can find something better for $2,500 if I were to just sell it all and start over.

I will be doing the repair myself if it makes sense to do so. Must also mention that I am looking for a project and not afraid of this type of challenge so it has some hobby value as well. I have a garage full of tools and equipment as well.

So based on your first hand experience should I start the repair or go ahead and scrap it now?
 

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oldrem

Commander
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Nov 7, 2013
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2,002
Looks like a fun old family boat in good shape otherwise. Even if you spent twice that to restore it you'd be thousands ahead from buying new, which is basically what you'd have when you're done. Plus you know with all the help here, it would be done right and last a long long time.
 

jbcurt00

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Oct 25, 2011
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Yep^^^, but at about 2.5times your transoms 1K budget

I'd bet there is much more work then you expect ahead.

Transom Stringers AND Deck are all likely to need work, not just the transom, ESP 1 that flexes under acceleration

dig into any of the thousands of fiberglass boat restos, any are likey to suggest how much more work is ahead

I'd bet any 2500 boat you find will need similar amounts of work.... the devil you know...
 

chevymaher

Commander
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Mar 29, 2017
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If you want a nice boat you got to do what you got to do to have it. Only you can make the call is it worth it. I over half done on my first one. It is worth it to me already and I haven't even got to use it.

If your going to use it and wear it out. Yes it is worth it and the best way to spend on a boat.
 

Twitches

Seaman Apprentice
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Jan 30, 2018
Messages
36
Yep^^^, but at about 2.5times your transoms 1K budget

I'd bet there is much more work then you expect ahead.

Transom Stringers AND Deck are all likely to need work, not just the transom,...

In my post I stated I have torn into the floor to confirm I will be replacing the stringers and deck as well. This boat will need it all. I don’t really have a budget or restriction just assumed it would be at least 1k to fix the transom, stringers and deck. Are you implying that I will be nearing 3k for the job? If so, why?
 

jbcurt00

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In my post I stated I have torn into the floor to confirm I will be replacing the stringers and deck as well. This boat will need it all. I don’t really have a budget or restriction just assumed it would be at least 1k to fix the transom, stringers and deck. Are you implying that I will be nearing 3k for the job? If so, why?

Look thru the rest of the rehabs posted. Many (most?) list expenses, as far as I know none are near 1K for transom, stringers and deck. And that doesnt include rebuilding seat bases, consoles storage bins OR flotation foam. Also important and if pour in foam, not cheap.

Lower cost rehabs average @2500...

Many end up being more, esp w new carpet/vinyl, seats, consoles, gauges, oops, gotchas, might as wells and unexpected expenses for tools, PPE and etc....
 

Twitches

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Jan 30, 2018
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36
I suppose rehab would be a good way to describe it. Everything but the transom stringers and floor is good and functional, I’ve been using it. It’s been removed and stored in anticipation of scrapping the hull. That said I am not afraid to spend a few thousand to do the job right, but it is not my intention to make it 100% perfect and keep it forever and ever.

What would you recommend as the best strategy to address the transom. Is SeaCast a good way to go for this boat?
 

jbcurt00

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SeaCast and budget arent really compatible, esp when immediately before you ask about seacast this
but it is not my intention to make it 100% perfect and keep it forever and ever

And once you lay the deck and wrap up the transom, it needed to be done right or not at all.

done right doesnt have to be perfect or a factory original restoration, but there are generally accepted ways to rebuild 1 safely, and plenty of examples can be found of previous poor workmanship

1/2 done
good enough
good enough for now
good enough until I sell it in a year or 2
is shoddy and unsafe for you and anyone you ask aboard.

Its unlikely you'll be able to tell how good, or how bad, poor (cheap?) workmanship is holding up

This is often how members come to join iboats. They bought boats as safe, water ready boats that had coverup cosmetic work done while the underpinnings were less then safe.

harsh perhaps, but plenty of topics and members that didnt get what they expected.

Decide you want to redo this boat and do it to the best of your ability in a safe manner, which this forum will help you do.

Or strip it of anything salvageable and look for a good boat w bad motor or trailer to swap it all too.
 

jbcurt00

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Said you dont plan to make it perfect or keep it forever, but want to know about SeaCast. Those statements are usually opposing. Perhaps not in this case. Countless other topics posted here and elsewhere suggest otherwise.

That was the basis for my last post.

If you plan to redo it right, but not factory or perfect, great, that can be done. I mentioned that earlier.

Same for mentioning you could redo a boat safely w help from this forum.

Boats are similar in some respects to other vehicles and projects, but vastly different in others

I believe you mentioned redoing the major stuff for about 1K, that implied a budget. At least 2 of us mentioned itxd be more like 2500 to redo it. You asked why, that reinforced the budget comment.

Having the want to is more important then having the tools to redo a boat.

Great, ya got the want to well covered. Tools too is even better.

No budget? Super, lets dig in...

Get a tyvak suit, safety shield/glasses a respirator and a few hundred pairs of nitrile gloves.

If you want to use SeaCast, its a good product. There are other similar products that are also similarly priced. Most dont because of expense.

100% of wood must be removed, from between 2 fiberglass skins that are about 1.5in apart. A semi-rigid form must be made of inner and outer fiberglass transom skins prior to pouring and tamping SeaCast to ensure fully filling (but not overfilling (bulging the transom)) cavity w SeaCast mix. Several topics have used it.

Look for sphelps MFG rebuild. He used it, is active on numerous topics and is currently running several projects posted here.

Look thru other fiberglass topics, there are plenty of examples of steps, materials and processes to follow for typical fiberglass boat rehab.

Post some more pix.

Most replace a ply transom w a ply transom. Typically 2 layers of 3/4 ply.

Marine ply
BS 1088 ply
MDO
Aurauco ply (not interior spec'd birch)
Doug Fir ply
ACX ply

all of those ^^^ are made w waterproof glues between the layers and when encapsulated in polyester reisn and glass will last as long as we're here to enjoy it, w proper storage and maintenance. Some are easier to find locally then others in some parts of the US..

Have to take the top cap off the boat or cut off the cap back close to the splashwell and transom to access ply transom. Avoiding that is 1 of the reasons SeaCast is popular.

Good luck w your project and have a good weekend.
 

Twitches

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jan 30, 2018
Messages
36
Thanks for the advice and encouragement.

I prepped the outboard for storage, moved it to a rack and started back up on the floor. I will be posting more pictures when I figure out a more efficient way to resize them.

Am I correct in assuming that step one in all of this is to get the inside stripped/grinded away down to the hull itself? Also is it safe to be walking around in the hull as I am doing this? It is well supported by the trailer bunks but I am no featherweight at 225 pounds.
 

mickyryan

Rear Admiral
Joined
Apr 18, 2016
Messages
4,210
build a rack for it or get a load of dirt dumped and shape to bottom before you remove wood , i built a rack for mine im 2fitty i wasn't trusting bunks :) btw seacast and composites are great but lets be honest good portion of these boats lasted 30 yrs before a tear down some last 3 it is all how you take care of it and workmanship with products used. plywood protected can last a very long time as well as lumber.
 
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