1974 reinell cuddy restore

[froggy1150]

So here is the beginning of my journey. The sucky thing about this is the back of this boat was redone, had been in the water ONCE and then stored improperly. It doesn't seem that bad though. I have read back about 280 pages in the restoration forums on topics that either pertain or interest me so far. My first question is on the 3rd pic does the laminate seem thin. Its less than an 1/8th.
also looking for pics of one of these finished so I have an idea of the interior. Model rv2240

 

[alldodge]

Not a slam but Reinell makes boats as cheap as they can so they can sell them for less. The wood is thin but it has foam to help give it strength. You can rebuild the boat better then new and have a great ride

 

[froggy1150]

I was wondering about the fiberglass. This deck and stringers were redone. It was about 10 years ago. The previous owner hit something in the ocean and tore the motor mounts loose. Pulled the boat and had the stringers and deck redone. Put it in the water ONCE to test and put it back on a trailer to finish interior. Moved to desert and it sat. There it was exposed to the elements and turned to mush. The deck was not sealed from underneath at all and the top had just that thin layer that looks like just resin and one thin piece of cloth. The work was not original, it was from a shop. So I think it was a mix of bad workmanship and improperly stored. Thin glass exposed to uv cracked and allowed moisture in. The damage so far looks like back right side but I need to dig to good wood. I think it was a rare top down rot. The foam so far has been completey dry but won' know for sure til I am done digging. This is my first boat and restore in one shot. I rebuilt Omc stringer and motor was good. Redone wiring for engine too. So I think with a bit of luck all I have to do is back half of boat deck,refoam and then put interior together. Thats where I am confused. I have no idea what it looks like and I cant find pics. -------Model # rv2240---- I did post the wrong model number in first post. All in all this hasn't been a bad project

 

[Woodonglass]

It doesn't take long for improperly encapsulated wood to go bad. Once it's wet it won't dry out and will eventually rot. I Highly recommend your remove the back half of the deck and investigate ALL potential problems. I wouldn't worry to much about the Interior LOOK and would concentrate more on ALL the potential structural repairs she'll need. Only then would you be able to make a qualified decision on the worthiness of a rebuild.

 

[froggy1150]

Back half is a given! Also plan to put some kind of drain from the cuddy to the bilge so that can drain. I think thats part of what happened. The hatch is missing and the owner had a piece of wood kinda over it. Somewhere in the 280 forum pages I have gone thru I seen somewhere a resin quantity material list estimate formula per square foot. That would be kinda nice in a sticky

 

[froggy1150]

Does this look like the right layup.
and what weights for cloth and mat? 1.5oz for csm and 2oz for woven?

 

[jbcurt00]

Lots of great info and layup details
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...lamingo-splashed-w-pics?p=5550980#post5550980

 

[froggy1150]

I know I have seen the answers to my questions. I have read WOG"s post several times and does not give definitive deck answers. I have been thru about 300 pages of posts (yes I have read back to 1-2013)and has become a blur of what and where I have seen info. questions....
1. I read that you need to maintain a gap between the wood and hull of boat for flexibility. I remember for stringers its 1/8-1/4 inch. what is the deck? same?
2. I am not opposed to either epoxy or poly/polyvl and I know less glass is needed for epoxy but I cant find specific layer weight/quantity and position. I do know underside for poly is one layer of csm -1.5oz- but is top just one layer of csm and one of woven cloth or 2 layers of 1708? with epoxy - nothing on the underside and one layer of 1700?
3. tabbing.... fill crack with pb then one layer of 1708 8" wide and second 12" wide. then how high up do I take the deck layers of glass? to the center of the tabbing or several inches up the side of the deck?
4. I think I am using polyvl but because I don't care what I use what would be the best choice for longetivity?
looking at my picture does all this look cool

 

[alldodge]

Stringers to hull keep the wood off about 1/4
Stringers to transom should be no gap, needs to be hard fastened

Tabbing, start short and work up higher, about 6 inch up is good, and more can be better. That said, if your stringer is shorter then 6, then it would need to be less

Epoxy will bond without glass, Poly needs glass to bond and hold. I like epoxy better then poly for overall performance, but it takes longer to dry and need to put additional layers on before completely dry or blushing can happen. When the epoxy blushes it will need to have it removes with sand paper to add more layers

 

[froggy1150]

1. Got stringers. What gap between deck plywood and hull? See picture
2.how many layers and of what glass for deck
3.tabbing... higher the better got it.
4. One vote for epoxy🖒

 

[chevymaher]

Me I am covering everything with 8 oz csm before it even goes in the boat. Sealing it.

Stringers 1/4 inch gap I used spacers pre fit it all used a grinder till the gap was uniform the length of the stinger. Used PL glue to put them in. Con to this method got to wait a week to tab it in. Peanut butter if your in a hurry. Me i knew it was going on hold for the winter so the PL had all the time in the world to cure.

My tabbing will be over the entire stringer surface. both for additional strength and encapsulation value. Stringers when said and done will have a layer of csm. Then csm tabbing 2 layers of 1708 tabbing. So the top 2 inches will only have one layer of csm and 1708 untill the deck goes in. Then as the deck is attached a small cap of a couple layers of csm to set the deck on to the stringers to attach it. I will also screw the deck down till the glass hardens.

It isnt important the screws it is sealed at the joint by the wet csm and the top of the deck will be sealed once the top is done. They mainly are just to hold it snugly untill the glass hardens eliminate air pockets.

I am going to cover the top of the deck with 1708 as a final surface. Mine will be carpet that will cover and hide any roughness.

This alot more glass than my boat came with originally. There are no hard fast rules it is all a judgement call by the builder restorer. Just make your own call what your going to do and me I am king of overkill so use a little more than it had factory.

I am going a extra layer everywhere and it only had csm originally and i am using the 1708. In my mind between the 2 things it is much stronger than originally now and weight added is minimal.

It is overwhelming but just go over a few builds compare the methods they used and decide what is best for you.

 

[Woodonglass]

Hey Froggy, I just updated the Deck Section of the link. Thanks for pointing out that it lacked enuf detail to actually be useful. I think the updates will answer a lot of your questions. Check it out...
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...80#post5550980

I think Both resins have their place. For wooden boats Epoxy IS the resin of Choice. Almost every high production boat manufacturer uses Poly to build their boats. IMHO it's MORE than adequate to restore your boat and again just my opinion, it's easier to work with. Much faster set up (This can go both ways but overall faster is better).

 

[kcassells]

Hey Froggy, I just updated the Deck Section of the link. Thanks for pointing out that it lacked enuf detail to actually be useful. I think the updates will answer a lot of your questions. Check it out...
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...80#post5550980

I think Both resins have their place. For wooden boats Epoxy IS the resin of Choice. Almost every high production boat manufacturer uses Poly to build their boats. IMHO it's MORE than adequate to restore your boat and again just my opinion, it's easier to work with. Much faster set up (This can go both ways but overall faster is better).

Look at that Wog... Like the Ever Ready battery Bunny... Just keeps on going...going... going...going...

 

[froggy1150]

hey wog...thanks for updating the deck part of your guidance. I just noticed. I have been down 331 pages of post back reading. read a ton of your stuff from the last 5 years. a lot of good stuff. I hope I have retained enough when I do get past the demo!!!!!!!

 

[Woodonglass]

Actually thank YOU for noticing my shortcomings!!! Don't hesitate to ask questions. There are a LOT of knowledgeable and experienced members that won't mind sharing with you. But...Remember in the long run it IS your boat and you should follow your Gut and do it the way you want. Just always consider safety first and you'll be fine.

 

[froggy1150]

As all the supplies trickle in and things get stripped it' getting warm enough to start putting things in. so here is the question. I have read and read and watched videos to no end and still not sure. My fuel tank had some minor pitting due to wet foam that I repaired and is ready for install. It had a layer of bronze colored coating then a layer of something black. TO COAT OR NOT TO COAT THAT IS THE QUESTION? Let the debate begin!

 

[alldodge]

Epoxy coat the tank is best for a foamed tank. It was probably primered then painted

 

[froggy1150]

So from what I had read so far most say not to use foam. A few do. Considering it was originally a foam install would it be better to change the way it sits in the hull so it gets air or coat and foam.

 

[alldodge]

So from what I had read so far most say not to use foam. A few do. Considering it was originally a foam install would it be better to change the way it sits in the hull so it gets air or coat and foam.

A boat is designed with a foamed in tank for structural strength. It would be easier and cheaper to just lay the tank in and strap it down otherwise. I would re-foam it back in, or need to redesign the hull

USCG requires 4 pound foam for tanks

 

[cup of Joe]

Not a slam but Reinell makes boats as cheap as they can so they can sell them for less. The wood is thin but it has foam to help give it strength. You can rebuild the boat better then new and have a great ride

Reinell had recalls in the 80"s for bad rotten wood, Stringers, transom
I had one . 1989 17.3 ft 4.3 eng.