jetdoctor2002
Cadet
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2017
- Messages
- 12
Hi Everyone,
I purchased a 1990 Marlin Chinook fishing boat last fall. It has a 4.3 with a cracked block, and a nice DP-A CD trim 2.30 drive. While I was deciding what to do to repair the engine, a package came up on C-list with a VP 5.0Gi PWTR/SX-M Shield/DP-SM drive. I have a set of D4 props. This package was removed to bracket a 24 Seasport for an outboard. The engine runs well, and checked out mechanically. The drive/shield are both in decent shape, and not corroded. The person I bought it from did a nice job of marking the wires etc as well, which I take as a good sign. No doubt everything needs to be gone through while out of the boat but it seems to be well worth the $4K that I paid for it.
The cutout in the transom for the VP290 transom shield is considerably larger than the cutout needed for the SX-M shield. There is an adapter plate available for $800-1000, but there is also the issue of transom condition. While it is solid, and there is no movement when jacking on the drive, the only way to tell is to remove the transom shield. The 5.0 is going in the boat for sure. I have to decide what to do with the drive.
Here is what I have been considering:
1) Keep the DP-A drive/transom and purchase a 1.95 lower ($2K). Will probably have to re-prop ($600). Many consider the Aquamatic drives superior to the later drives. Disadvantage: drive is obsolete as far as VP is concerned.
2) If the transom is magically sound, use an adapter plate ($900) and mount up the DP-SM setup. Advantage: easiest way to get on the water.
3) Glass up the transom. Advantage: repowering boat in the future would be easy with either VP, or Merc with small modifications. When I called up VP, the first thing that came out of the reps mouth was that what I had was obsolete. He suggested I repower with a package that would have cost around $20K.
I have been looking at some write-ups of transom repair, and am not sure if removing the entire transom core is necessary to do this job. Is it possible to splice in Coosa board to the transom core to fill the hole? Removing the deck to get to the entire transom is not a job that you do unless absolutely necessary. Doing it from the outside will not be an option either. There are a couple of people here who are probably experts in doing this job. I am not about re-inventing the wheel, and am looking for the best way to a quality outcome.
I am optimistic about the quality of the glasswork on this boat. The stringers are a beefy hat section, not glassed over 3/4 ply. The engine mounts/stringers are made from roving, and covered with a thick layer of gel coat as is the transom. There is no chopper gun/mat that I can see just waiting to soak up water. Of course all it takes is a couple of poorly sealed swim platform bolts to do in a transom.
My first project is to get my Arima ready to sell this spring. In the mean time, I would like to get my ducks in a row with the Chinook. Any opinions welcome!
Cheers,
Doug
I purchased a 1990 Marlin Chinook fishing boat last fall. It has a 4.3 with a cracked block, and a nice DP-A CD trim 2.30 drive. While I was deciding what to do to repair the engine, a package came up on C-list with a VP 5.0Gi PWTR/SX-M Shield/DP-SM drive. I have a set of D4 props. This package was removed to bracket a 24 Seasport for an outboard. The engine runs well, and checked out mechanically. The drive/shield are both in decent shape, and not corroded. The person I bought it from did a nice job of marking the wires etc as well, which I take as a good sign. No doubt everything needs to be gone through while out of the boat but it seems to be well worth the $4K that I paid for it.
The cutout in the transom for the VP290 transom shield is considerably larger than the cutout needed for the SX-M shield. There is an adapter plate available for $800-1000, but there is also the issue of transom condition. While it is solid, and there is no movement when jacking on the drive, the only way to tell is to remove the transom shield. The 5.0 is going in the boat for sure. I have to decide what to do with the drive.
Here is what I have been considering:
1) Keep the DP-A drive/transom and purchase a 1.95 lower ($2K). Will probably have to re-prop ($600). Many consider the Aquamatic drives superior to the later drives. Disadvantage: drive is obsolete as far as VP is concerned.
2) If the transom is magically sound, use an adapter plate ($900) and mount up the DP-SM setup. Advantage: easiest way to get on the water.
3) Glass up the transom. Advantage: repowering boat in the future would be easy with either VP, or Merc with small modifications. When I called up VP, the first thing that came out of the reps mouth was that what I had was obsolete. He suggested I repower with a package that would have cost around $20K.
I have been looking at some write-ups of transom repair, and am not sure if removing the entire transom core is necessary to do this job. Is it possible to splice in Coosa board to the transom core to fill the hole? Removing the deck to get to the entire transom is not a job that you do unless absolutely necessary. Doing it from the outside will not be an option either. There are a couple of people here who are probably experts in doing this job. I am not about re-inventing the wheel, and am looking for the best way to a quality outcome.
I am optimistic about the quality of the glasswork on this boat. The stringers are a beefy hat section, not glassed over 3/4 ply. The engine mounts/stringers are made from roving, and covered with a thick layer of gel coat as is the transom. There is no chopper gun/mat that I can see just waiting to soak up water. Of course all it takes is a couple of poorly sealed swim platform bolts to do in a transom.
My first project is to get my Arima ready to sell this spring. In the mean time, I would like to get my ducks in a row with the Chinook. Any opinions welcome!
Cheers,
Doug
