1993 Chaparral Gemini 190: Chronicles of a New Boat Owner (Deck Rebuild) [SPLASHED June 2018]

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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You can always go back and top it off with csm. Note; You may be leveling off some of the tops to match up to floor so you may end up grinding off the capping in any event.
 

bpounds1991

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Nov 3, 2017
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I'm actually about to head out and grab some plastic wrap as we speak lol; going to redo the transom edges and then work on the two wood cutouts/ladder support wood as well.
 

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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You're kickin some butt there. Lookin good.
Keep an eye on the clamps. They can squeeze the resin out of the glass.
 
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JASinIL2006

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Feb 10, 2012
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Keep at it. You’ll get the hang of it before you know it! Just takes a bit of practice. The plastic wrap is a good trick.
 

bpounds1991

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Nov 3, 2017
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Got some good work in today.
-Made all the notches for bulkheads/stringers
-PL'd the PVC pipe in (holes were drilled throughout it to allow for hypothetical drainage)
-Machined the PVC replacement for the front U-bolt to drill into

Didn't get a chance to start on the peanut butter, but throughout the week I'll get there.
IMG_2873.JPGIMG_2872.JPGIMG_2871.JPGIMG_2870.JPG
 

mickyryan

Rear Admiral
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Apr 18, 2016
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looks very nice but have you thought about glassing them in separately so if one rots it don't spread to others?
 

bpounds1991

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Nov 3, 2017
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321
Honestly I haven't, but this boat lasted 25 years being rotted out so doing it this way and better than the original I don't mind just glassing it all and calling it a day lol.
 

tpenfield

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Jul 18, 2011
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Usually the stringers rot from the bulkheads . . . so if you can isolate the bulkheads with glass, then you will have even more longevity.
 

bpounds1991

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Nov 3, 2017
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kcassells That's not true I take every bit of advice to heart lol. Nothing is sealed yet so far but my "glassmanship" is not the best, so taking an easier route of glassing it all in is sounding better and better by the second. At this point, if the repair lasts as long as it did now (in the event I do keep it another 20 years which is highly unlikely), I wouldn't have to replace the rotted wood again until I'm 47 lol.
 

mickyryan

Rear Admiral
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Apr 18, 2016
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well , if easier is the path glassthe bulkheads in it on the table between poly sheets and then pop in boat then you only have to tab to hull :) but eh to each his own , im old if i don't have to bend over i don't :)
 

bpounds1991

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Nov 3, 2017
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321
I've got the drop cloth now and my goal is to CSM (.75oz)/2215 the entire thing after it's glued/filleted. I've had a rough time glassing on the table so far with the extra pieces, and now that I've got the cloth I figured just getting it all in on the boat then cutting the fiberglass mat to size would be the easier option. At this point I'm all for easy...my wife hates me since all I do is work on the boat, it's stressing me out, and I honestly just want to get it done (as smoothly as possible) in a timely fashion.
 

oldrem

Commander
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Nov 7, 2013
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I've got the drop cloth now and my goal is to CSM (.75oz)/2215 the entire thing after it's glued/filleted. I've had a rough time glassing on the table so far with the extra pieces, and now that I've got the cloth I figured just getting it all in on the boat then cutting the fiberglass mat to size would be the easier option. At this point I'm all for easy...my wife hates me since all I do is work on the boat, it's stressing me out, and I honestly just want to get it done (as smoothly as possible) in a timely fashion.

When I brought the Ouachita home last fall. I told my wife it would probably take 2 years. Her response was - better not I want to fish with it next year. That's why I bought the Sylvan - less work. lol
 

bpounds1991

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Nov 3, 2017
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321
My plan is to glass the stringers is to use a layer of .75oz CSM followed by a layer of 2215, with putting them in like this it'll involve a few more corners which I don't mind making fillets on. I'll be PLing the whole setup soon (bulkheads/stringers) then using PB to make fillets. I had read that and a ton of other How-To's on here lol, it's all starting to mesh together at this point :facepalm:
 

bpounds1991

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Nov 3, 2017
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SO, after reading back through WOG and BC's builds I've revamped my route here (I know a few of you are saying THANK GOD :laugh:)

This weekend's plans:
-CSM the bulkheads one side at a time, then stand them up and use the drop cloth to smooth the edges with a 3rd separate piece of CSM
-Get the transom PB'd in and filleted, if it hardens up in time I'll end up tabbing that before Sunday is over
-By the time the transom is finished the bulkheads should be less tacky, so I'll move on to PL glue the bulkhead joints to the stringers, so it can all be inserted as one piece
-Fillet the PVC pipe and PVC sheet (using for the U-bolt at the stern)
-Enjoy some Miller Lites

Once the transom is done within the week I'll look to PL the stringers/bulkheads in, let that cure for a few days and then start working on stringer fillets.
 
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oldrem

Commander
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Nov 7, 2013
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Glad to hear that. The masters have done a few of those and know from whence they speak.
 

bpounds1991

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Nov 3, 2017
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I just had to take a step back and go back through everything I’ve read/seen. I thought I had the whole process memorized in my head, but I’m trying to utilize bits and pieces from everyone’s restorations here so going back through to clarify everything really helped. Heck I even went back again through Frisco’s videos lol. I do have a couple of questions before I continue glassing. I know the strength really comes from the cloth and not the CSM, so when doing the stringers will I still need to put the .75oz CSM down, then 2215? Or will the 1.5oz CSM in the 2215 suffice? And my second question is if I am doing .75oz first, would the knitted side be facing up or sandwiched between the CSM?
 
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