Floor and stringer repair and replacement

[Ironaffliction]

So how do I get the rest of the outdrive off? Do I remove the piece I circled and how? Does everything need to be removed from the stern of the boat swim platform ect... ? Thank you

 

[CarTuner]

So how do I get the rest of the outdrive off? Do I remove the piece I circled and how? Does everything need to be removed from the stern of the boat swim platform ect... ? Thank you

No, don't remove the piece you have circled. That entire assembly, that's within the large black rubber o-ring seal, is called the intermediate assembly. It will come out with the engine. Just remove the seal from the transom and it'll be in the clear.

 

[Ironaffliction]

Ok thank you

 

[Ironaffliction]

I have a question regarding the transom thickness. I have quite a ways to go before I start making the transom I'm still grinding. I did measure the transom thickness before I removed all of it but I don't see how it has to be an exact thickness I don't see how it plays a part but if it does I want to make sure I get it right since I won't know until I put the motor back in right? Its an OMC if that helps. Also my transom was 3 sheets of plywood and each one was glassed over should I do the new one the same or glue 3 sheets together then glass over it?

 

[Ironaffliction]

So this is where Im at. Long ways to go and cannot wait to be done grinding!

 

[Bayou Dave]

Any progress is good progress! You will see the end one day.

 

[Mad Props]

I don't know jack about OMC but theres no need to glass each individual piece of plywood. Glue them together with a good waterproof glue (titebond 2 or 3, polyurethane glue, etc) and clamp the crap out of it. I used lots of screws to get good clamping pressure in the field where I couldn't get any clamps. Just make sure you predrill the top layers of plywood the diameter of the thread so the screw only bites into the bottom layer. That makes sure everything sucks together, otherwise the thread of the screws will just act like a spacer and not pull the wood together.

 

[kcassells]

Yo and don't forget about making your own pb as a adhesive agent. My transom was very awkward to handle by myself. I screwed on 2 kitchen cabinet handle so I could lif and control it better.
Better yet case a beer and some buddies to help. If you are using squeeze tube adhesives read the mfg label cause the glues needs to gas of. Sometimes days or weeks. That being said while gassing is going on you should not do any glass cause bubbles will form.

 

[froggy1150]

Looks like a sringer. Mine only had one 3/4" full width ply transom piece and 2 pieces, one each side at about 1/3rd each. So 1/3rd was 3/4" and 2/3rds was 1.5". The drive mounts to stringers that push rest of boat unlike every other drive that pushes transom. I rebuild the same way but used alot of glass to bond motor stringers to hull. And I will even add more when I finish the deck. On this setup you don't have to maintain 2" parallel

 

[JASinIL2006]

I have a question regarding the transom thickness. I have quite a ways to go before I start making the transom I'm still grinding. I did measure the transom thickness before I removed all of it but I don't see how it has to be an exact thickness I don't see how it plays a part but if it does I want to make sure I get it right since I won't know until I put the motor back in right? Its an OMC if that helps. Also my transom was 3 sheets of plywood and each one was glassed over should I do the new one the same or glue 3 sheets together then glass over it?

Gluing them together first is definitely the way to go. You can use PB or urethane glue, but something like a Titebond III will give you a glue with equal or better water resistance properties than the glue that holds the plywood plies together in the first place. Of the three (PB, urethane glue, or Titebond III) I would go with whatever is the most cost-effective.

 

[Ironaffliction]

Thanks for all the info great stuff.

Froggy1150 what are you talking about when you say 2" parallel ?

 

[froggy1150]

With other drives they sandwich the transom. If the transom is too thin the splines shaft will bottom out and stress bearings.... too fat and splines won't seat completely and strip. About 2". If the inner and outer surfaces are not parallel they will leak. Then there is also alignment Hassell. A stringer transom gets a boot screwed to it that's it. As long as it's Strong enough to keep water out.... your good

 

[froggy1150]

Also a common drive will push transom. With a stringer it pushes the motor stringers, those will push the hull. The transom is pulled by mounts. Granted it's all tied together but your transom recieves less stress than a merc when I did mounts I covered in glass. Bedded to the hull then bonded to hull bottom with BIG sheets of woven and biaxal cloth.layered to Around 80 oz. Captain overkill

 

[Ironaffliction]

Mine transom has a big hole that the trans goes through and then the outdrive bolts to it. I could make the transom thicker because it will not affect how the outdrive bolts on. Thank you for all the info will have more once I get the grinding done and start on building the transom and stringers

 

[froggy1150]

1" I think would be minimum. The center 1/3rd is that thick on mine. The rest will be almost 2" for all that it matters you could do 3" ..... incase you like to back into things

 

[Ironaffliction]

Ya I am gonna do 2" at least but 3 is not a bad idea since I don't have my boating license yet lol

 

[Ironaffliction]

So poly won't work on epoxy correct? How do I know which one was used on the boat before?

 

[Ironaffliction]

I have some thin spots and small holes in the hull would you use 1708 for that or what?

 

[chevymaher]

Boats are made with poly resin originally.

 

[kcassells]

I have some thin spots and small holes in the hull would you use 1708 for that or what?

1708 with poly yes.
Eeepoxy will bind to poly BUT poly won't bond to EEppoxy. Also most people Paint Epoxy cause gelcoat can be a pia to bond.