1977 Sylvan Sea Monster Side Console Rebuild

oldrem

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After 2 applications and a lot of scraping, the temp got up to 48 and the sun showed it's face. Put on my fishing rain gear, rubber boots and gloves and fired up my 20 year old pressure washer. I wanted to wash it down before using the cup wheel again anyway. Yesterday I had stripper residue flying around when I was using it and didn't want that again. I ran a full tank of gas and did as good a job as 2300psi could do.
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Let it drain while I ate dinner and vacuumed out the remaining water and debris. Got about halfway through using the cup brush and kept wanting to do more. I could no longer keep a grip on the tool, so decided to take my gloves off for a better grip. I knew better, but finally lost grip and had it hit my hand at full rpm. That was definitely the end for the day. Put everything away, washed and bandaged my hand. The rest will wait.
 

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Watermann

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Ouch, oh man that hurt just thinking about it. I had a close call with a wire wheel once, it caught spun off the AL that was clamped on saw horses at crotch height... :eek: I have a pair of air conditioned pants now to remind me of that event. :lol:
 

mickyryan

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i stopped my grinder with my thumb once too , wasn't pretty put crazy glue on it after cleaning it out and went back at it ... tearfully :)
 

oldrem

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While I was pressure washing Sunday I hit the outside of the transom and the port side. Paint flaked in a few spots and it looks like no primer was ever put on before painting. Thinking I may have to go down to bare metal to do it right? The local Farm and Fleet carries Valspar Tractor and Implement products. Thinking ahead, plan is SE Primer followed by Valspar Oil Based Primer, Valspar Tractor and Implement Low Gloss Black with their Tractor and Implement Enamel Hardener. I want to follow with a pigmented pearl clear coat for final color and gloss. Would a spar urethane work for the clear coat or is there a better product I should consider?
 

BWR1953

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I've read great reviews about the Valspar paint.

Beware of using paint hardener/activator which contains isocyanates like the Majic product. Those isocyanates are seriously nasty and require positive air pressure delivery systems to safely use. I have some of the Majic hardener and have decided against using it for my painting efforts.

Isocyanate spray protection search results:

Isocyanate safety
 

oldrem

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Finished cleaning above deck tonight, vacuumed and pulled the gorilla tape. I hope to do a spray down with cleaning vinegar and pressure wash in the next 2 evenings. Friday morning the admiral and I are driving up for our annual Memorial Day weekend trek to Wisconsin Dells

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oldrem

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I decided I was not going to pressure wash again without better drainage, so spent what daylight I had to drill 50 5/16" weep holes. Half way through I dumped a bucket of water in and watched smiling as it took about 10 minutes to drain what would have taken a week before. With all I need to take care of tomorrow night before we leave for the weekend, I doubt I'll have any time to do anymore until we return from the Dells.

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oldrem

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Had our only rain in the Dells this morning, so packed up and left earlier than usual. With road construction and traffic jams it took more than an hour longer than usual. Glad we didn't stay until later when traffic builds even more.
Got home with enough time to pull the mower deck off the John Deer, flip it on it's side and replace the main drive belt, reassemble everything and the mow the lawn. Unfortunately I had a freak accident rolling it off the back patio and will be suffering a few days with bruised ribs, but then I'm accustomed to being accident prone. lol
 

kcassells

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Ouch! is right ! That must hurt a bit. Well take it easy for a few days.

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mickyryan

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i fell off the bed once and landed on a step stool just right and broke a couple ... i feel or felt that pain before :)
 

oldrem

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This is driving me crazy, coming home to decent weather and not wanting to do irritate my ribs any more than I already do just moving or breathing.

Planning ahead, I've been pondering what to use to seal the gap between the decking and the sides of the hull? I would like a tight seal like you get on a glass boat. I'm not using carpet or vinyl, but will use a roll or spray coating - most likely bed liner type. I want to keep as much crap, crud, corruption and water from going below deck as possible in a tinny.

Suggestions?
deck to hull joint.jpg
 

mickyryan

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can you get gap super tight? if so i would just use pl premium , you can sand it after its cured and fill any air pockets but at least you would know its never coming off unless you take it off mechanically :) also raptor liner will stick to it as will most urathane liner material, I have become very good with using this product so any tips you want let me know :)
 

oldrem

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can you get gap super tight? if so i would just use pl premium , you can sand it after its cured and fill any air pockets but at least you would know its never coming off unless you take it off mechanically :) also raptor liner will stick to it as will most urathane liner material, I have become very good with using this product so any tips you want let me know :)

I should be able to cut very close - all the old deck sections came out in 1 piece, so I can use those as a starting point to get a near perfect fit. I see our local Home Depot has the big 28oz tubes of pl premium for only $7.98, so worth a shot
 

Watermann

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The boat flexes so nothing rigid will work for long between the deck and sides. What deck covering are you going to use? Carpet like it came with? You could glue one run carpet on the deck and up the hulls sides.
 

oldrem

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The boat flexes so nothing rigid will work for long between the deck and sides. What deck covering are you going to use? Carpet like it came with? You could glue one run carpet on the deck and up the hulls sides.

This boat will be used 99% for fishing, so no to the carpet. Was seriously thinking a bedliner material.
 

mickyryan

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This boat will be used 99% for fishing, so no to the carpet. Was seriously thinking a bedliner material.

if you use bedliner material shoot at low pressure like 18 to 20 it will make for a nice smooth but huge orange peel semi shiney texture hi psi makes for a finer but gripper texture like 60 psi fine like 80 grit sandpaper texture, from shultz gun. if you are using a hvlp you can apply it like regular pain where you might want that but i used a 1.8 tip and thinned just enough to get it out of gun using about 26 psi.<~ that loks like orange peel you would see on a fridge but slightly less.
 
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