99 Larson 186 SEI Ski-n-Fish Re-Deck Project

[QuickPuppy]

I’ll order it tomorrow. Thx

 

[QuickPuppy]

Ok, just triple checking that I’m doing the right thing here....
The original stringers are most likely poly resin. My new plywood deck boards have CSM with poly resin covering the bottoms. I was going to make PB out of POLY resin to glue the two together. That would not have been correct, would it? I need to use EPOXY resin to make the PB glue?
Everywhere else I should be using POLY resin PB for fillets, filling cracks between the deck boards, etc... (anywhere that’s not glueing).

Is this all correct? The guys at US Composites told me to use the EPOXY resin to glue the deck.

 

[QuickPuppy]

Also decided to gelcoat the new deck in a gunsmoke grey color. That was close to matching the carpet that was in there before. I was going to color match the Larson off-white from Spectrum Color but they must mix gold dust in with their gelcoat! I bought two gallons from USC for less than a quart from them. They wouldn’t color match anyone else’s product. I was hoping the would as they are here in town. Oh well, therefore the gunsmoke grey instead.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I used poly resin PB (and screws) to hold my deck down. I'm about 99% certain Larson used poly resin PB (and staples) to attach the deck on my boat when it was built. I used poly resin PB to glue in my transom core to the hull, as have many others here.

Are you planning to use any mechanical fasteners for your deck?

 

[QuickPuppy]

Stainless screws and PB

 

[JASinIL2006]

No need for epoxy PB.

 

[QuickPuppy]

Too late, already bought it... it arrived with the gelcoat today.
USC’s prices are good if you can somehow avoid the shipping charges.

 

[QuickPuppy]

Maybe I’ll call them tomorrow and see if I can return it next month. Going to be in West Palm Beach

 

[QuickPuppy]

Conflicting opinions... thoughts on this anyone?

I’m going to be finishing off the glassing on my deck hopefully in the next month. My deck is 3/4” marine ply.

I’ve hearing three ways of doing it:

1. Plywood-CSM-1708-CSM-Fairing-Gelcoat

2. Plywood-CSM-1708-Fairing-Gelcoat

3. Plywood-1708-Fairing-Gelcoat

The final gelcoat layer will have non-skid in it.

#1 seems like overkill and potentially adding a lot of extra weight.

Thoughts?

 

[eggs712]

A couple layers of 1.5 oz CSM should be plenty with the 3/4" ply. That's what I did on my deck and it's plenty solid.

 

[QuickPuppy]

How did the finish come out compared to 1708? (If you used that elsewhere.)

 

[JASinIL2006]

For me, CSM always came out looking less smooth and even than 1708. If you go with CSM only, you'll be doing a lot more fairing.

With 3/4" ply, I think your option #3 is best. A layer of CSM is required with 1708; it already has mat stitched to it. An extra layer of CSM would add strength, but also weight. On top of 3/4" plywood, I don't think you need extra strength.

 

[QuickPuppy]

“A layer of CSM is required with 1708.”

Did you mean to say option 2, Jim or did you mean to say that a layer of CSM is NOT required with 1708.

 

[Woodonglass]

For the top side of your deck I recommend 1 layer of 1.5oz CSM, followed by a layer of 8oz e-glass make sure to fillet and tab the deck to the sides of the hull. 6" up the sides and onto the deck. do this first and then lay the CSM and 8oz over the 1708. It'll look great and be strong and waterproof. Hopefully you put CSM and Resin on the bottom before you installed it.
the 2nd link in my signature line below has some good info on how to do your deck.

 

[QuickPuppy]

Thanks guys.

How much original gelcoat should be removed before applying new gelcoat? (Going to redo the bilge in grey before the deck gets put down permanently.) Is it sufficient to just scuff it up or should I grind down to the pink?

Also, any tips on cleaning the bilge of years of grease/oil/dirt? Acetone and MEK didn’t do much.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Ugh... yes, I meant CSM is not needed with 1708... sorry for the error.

WOG is correct about using CSM and 8 oz. woven on the deck, but 1708 will work, too. It has a bit more texture than 8 oz., but it can be faired smooth.

 

[Grub54891]

Is it sufficient to just scuff it up or should I grind down to the pink?

When I do them, I bring it down till all the old dirty junk is gone. Sometimes it don't take much, sometimes it takes it all down to the pink. If all the way down I like to lay in another layer of glass as I just removed pretty much a complete layer already.​

 

[QuickPuppy]

Couldn’t find anything that would clean it up so I did end up sanding done to get to clean glass. I also decided to do something about the spots that were soft in the transom. I am not able to take the cap off to really replace everything so I am trying this instead. Hopefully it will work just fine...

I sanded and ground out all of the soft wood. The worst of it was near holes on each side of the transom. I how no idea what they were there for. They seemed to go almost through the wood to the exterior skin.

I wiped everything down with acetone then painted a layer of resin over the whole thing. I then started alternating layers of CSM and 1708 in the low spots to build them back up. It is taking many more layers to get thickness than I thought it would. Got it about halfway filled before it got too cold and too late.

After I get it all level again, the plan is to re-tab the bottom with 1708 and put at least one layer of 1708 over the entire transom. I may even put some metal reinforcements at the motor mount area when the glassing is done. I have to think that this will be a solid repair.

 

[QuickPuppy]

[No message]

 

[QuickPuppy]

I have another repair that I need some opinions on as well...

While cutting the tabbing off I had a bit of an oops where I cut through the hull. To fix this can I just pack the cut with PB and back it on the inside with some CSM and 1708? Or does this need to be widened out first, tapered, and then patched with alternating layers?