"It Happened!" Transom has to be replaced! (NOW W/PICS)

FreeBeeTony

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May 15, 2002
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LX............just saw this thread.
Didn't read every post.........what happened? How did you find your problem?
I had major engine issues this year myself............re-doing the top end at the moment.
You guys did a great job on the transom...........not a job I would tackle!!
Continued good luck!
Will try to keep following you!
 

LX Kid

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Sep 5, 2008
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I don't want to start an argument but from what I found out Bondo Glass #272 is good for marine use and is waterproof:

https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...ct.do?pid=6102

I'm sure the Bondo Glass would have been a better choice but I used Bondo Body Filler. Anyone know of a final sealing coating that I could use over the Bondo Filler to help things along? I know my work is not professional but just trying to get this puppy back in the water in a reasonable manner. From the start we novices "THOUGHT" this project would only take about 10 days to complete and are now starting our 3rd month of work. When you start tearing into a 35 year old boat you really find things that just "have" to be taken care of. "Darn good thing we are retired and can put some time into the project."
 

LX Kid

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Sep 5, 2008
Messages
993
LX............just saw this thread.
Didn't read every post.........what happened? How did you find your problem?
I had major engine issues this year myself............re-doing the top end at the moment.
You guys did a great job on the transom...........not a job I would tackle!!
Continued good luck!
Will try to keep following you!

Long time no hear from you! Water leaking in from what we "thought" was the transom. After cutting transom out we found that at the bottom of the Y-tube has corroded thru. Corrosion could not be seen until y-tube was removed. Just the same the transom was bad but was not the leak.
 

LX Kid

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Wow!.......where was most of the rot on the transom?......for info purposes.......:)

How about "everywhere" even though wasn't leaking around the gimbal assembly. Pic is of the wood removed and the inner transom fiberglass is seen.
 

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FreeBeeTony

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Wow again........
​Hope mine dosen't look like that............not gonna look either!
 

LX Kid

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Wow again........
​Hope mine dosen't look like that............not gonna look either!

Nothing is forever! I remember you have a 24' Grady I/O but I don't remember the year. Try pushing in around the gimbal assembly and see if it moves any where. The engine bay was painted this morning.

It's going to be a lot of fun trying to remember where all the wire go!
 

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kcassells

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I don't want to start an argument but from what I found out Bondo Glass #272 is good for marine use and is waterproof:

https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...ct.do?pid=6102


ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ.... old news Going back to sleep. No argument here. Just not underwater.
Bondo says; For Auto or Marine

This waterproof filler is ideal for repairing dime size or smaller (up to ?”) rusted-out metal holes and shattered fiberglass body parts. It is compatible with all paint systems for cars and boats.
Application:Boat Repair, Automotive Body Repair, Doors, Cabinets, Trim, Fences, Etc.
Lend me a nickle or a dime will ya. His boat your boat go ahead and use it. Way past this .....Did you see anywhere for underwater? Above deck yup. I don't see any cars, fences, doors, cabinets, cars in the water.
JMHO back at ya.
Your boat do waht ya want.
 

LX Kid

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Sep 5, 2008
Messages
993
Worked a little more on the transom this afternoon until it started raining. Had a "horrible" view of the transom this morning. The early morning sun shined at an angle on the transom and it looked like it had leprosy! Got out my belt sander and used some 80 grip cause that's all Home Depot had. Tomorrow I'll go back over it with 120 grit and then fill any "holidays" and sanding marks with a little putty. But now it's actually looking pretty good. My partners are getting a little anxious wanting me just to paint over everything and put motor back in and go fishing. Can't say as I blame them but I'm holding them off! LoL
 
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LX Kid

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Sep 5, 2008
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993
Gimbal assembly still being a "nightmare" for me. have everything together except for getting the two bellows onto the bell housing. "Supposed" to be sealed with bellows adhesive but it would dry before I ever attempted to get those bellows on. It's been suggested not to use adhesive for that end and just use grease. The grease would seal once the hose clamp was tightened. Any suggestions?
 

Stumpalump

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Dec 5, 2013
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A rubber booty to keep the sea out. Brilliant! Add a second bilge pump and enough battery to keep it pumping if the engine dies. Your this far then you are outboard bracket territory but we discussed that already. What would you do with all that extra room anyway? Alright I know thats a dead horse... Use grease and keep at it. When that fails take a break. Eventually you will hold your mouth right and it goes right on. Sealant is for those that have done it enough to put it right on. It's impossible at first then miracuracly becomes simple because you found out how not to do it. Grease or WD-40 is good because when it dries on rubber it gets sticky. That's what I use. Fwiw I think you guys knocked it out of the park so far!
 

LX Kid

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Sep 5, 2008
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Wish I had of used one of this type of exhaust tube/bellows. All I would have to worry about is the driveshaft bellows. This is what was on there before rebuilding.
 

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LX Kid

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Just discovered another important aspect of this project. Engine alignment. It never really occurred to me that because we have changed the transom will change the alignment of engine coupler to gimbal bearing . Going to have to have an alignment tool for this purpose. Kinda expensive for a one time use. I found specs on making one on the web. Gonna see if I can find a 1-3/8" round stock and I'll turn one on my lathe. Doesn't have to have splines on the end to do this alignment.
 

LX Kid

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Sep 5, 2008
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Found a $29 alignment tool on eBad and was cheap enough so I ordered it. Gonna take a ride up to Port Richey to buy a couple of new motor mounts as mine are wasted by rust. Got rained out this morning so I made some new seats for the right and left side of the stern. The wood on the old ones had become water logged. Used some leftover marine 3/4" ply and sealed it with exterior paint. Cut up a floor mat for the padding and covered them with blue naugahyde.
 

LX Kid

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Sep 5, 2008
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993
Here's what I've decided to try on sealing and painting of the transom. Bondo was not the best choice "but" it's there and I don't want to grind everything off and start over. Gonna finish smoothing everything off and taking some resin on a roller and try to seal everything. After curing I'll smooth sand, prime and paint. If it last a season or two I'll be happy.

I finished off rebuilding the gimbal assembly this morning. Dang, what a job it was to put those damn bellows on. Next week I'll find the leak in the upper of the outdrive. Pretty sure it's the large seal on the input shaft. Yesterday I drove 100 miles, yound trip, to buy two new motor mounts for $50.
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
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Apr 6, 2005
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11,527
I wouldn't bother trying to seal it, the resin coating would need to rather thick for it to be much of a benefit, and if it's going to fail, it will with or without the resin.

If you keep it in the water it may start to bubble up and flake off after a month or so, if you keep it on the trailer it may last for a year or two, maybe longer.
 

LX Kid

Ensign
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Sep 5, 2008
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993
I wouldn't bother trying to seal it, the resin coating would need to rather thick for it to be much of a benefit, and if it's going to fail, it will with or without the resin.

Isn't resin going to block moisture, somewhat, from attacking the bondo? The boat is always trailered back home after fishing.
 

zool

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Aug 19, 2012
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Since youre painting it anyway, I would use a barrier coat like Interlux 2000e or the like.....to seal out moisture, and cut down on fairing time, like sanding resin...
 
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