Stupid newb hull repair questions.

jinxd12

Seaman Apprentice
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Jul 25, 2017
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I watched every episode of that YouTube channel last night haha. My one area I am still concerned with is when I tape the bottom of the boat to work the inside 1st....do I make the tape in the "V" shape of my keel? And do I bend the fiberglass on both sides of the patch to get the shape I want?
 

gm280

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Jun 26, 2011
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I watched every episode of that YouTube channel last night haha. My one area I am still concerned with is when I tape the bottom of the boat to work the inside 1st....do I make the tape in the "V" shape of my keel? And do I bend the fiberglass on both sides of the patch to get the shape I want?

That IS a very good question. There are a few ways to approach that issue. I would merely tape a flat piece of plastic across the hole and get it covered over from the top side first. Then I would work the bottom side mixing up some polyester with Cabosil and even some glass bubbles and make the "V" shape out of that mixture to repair the "V" section. That would be one way.

Secondly, you could make a "V" plastic cover for the bottom to start with and do the repair that way. Either way it will work and be solid if you follow the video. It really is up to how you think you can do it the better.

Once you get started, you will get a feel for the polyester and fiberglass. It has a really quick learning curve. And if I can do it, anybody can. JMHO
 

chevymaher

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Mar 29, 2017
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Plastic inside a cardboard form the shape you want. Hot glue the cardboard together in the shape you need. Carefully lay plastic in that avoiding wrinkles, then attach that to the outside of the hole with 2 inch masking tape. Yellow bodywork tape sticks the best. That will make the glass the rough shape you need on the first layer. Once the first layer kicks off and is solid. The plastic will pull right off. Let harden overnight then lay it on in there to the thickness you need.

You have to account for the sags and grinding outside you will do so the total thickness is correct once the bodywork outside is done.
 

jinxd12

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Jul 25, 2017
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Can you let me know if this looks Ok? The pic with red is the bottom of the boat with red vinyl tape, the 2nd pic is with tape removed a little less than 2 hours after application of resin.
 

chevymaher

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Mar 29, 2017
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Pic isn't the best for detail. Looks a little dry in places and lumpy. A touch more resin and it would be clear and the whitish spots would be gone. But it looks fine. Is it thick enough to knock the lumps down. That way the 1708 lays flat and will be easier to work with.

Main thing now is just a smooth base to put the cloth. This layer only has to be thick enough to hold the layers of cloth which are the strength. Each layer should be a few inches bigger than the one under it.

Here is friscoboater doing his stringers, See how the white cloth becomes clear when it is saturated with resin. And you can do all the layers you need at once one over the next and not wait for it to harden, Main thing is to get the bubbles or whiteness out as you go.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJokjxoJ2Js

Once this is done which is the strength layers. Then this layer you have now the base can be ground from the bottom. As gm said cabasol make peanut butter for the pretty work.
 

tpenfield

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Jul 18, 2011
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Just following along . . .

I made a couple of pics that I *think* should depict the intended repair.

The purple being the cloth layers and the pink being the filler (CSM, PB, etc.)
keelfix2.png


keelfix1.png

So, I assume what we are looking at in the recent pics is the 'filler' (pink)

Not sure that is helpful, but pictures often seem to add to the discussion.
 

tpenfield

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also wondering if you chance inspected the rest of the hull for any similar issues?
 

gm280

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Jun 26, 2011
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I looked at the latest picture. I would grind the lumps down to more of a flat surface and install then next layer. The lumps look like there may be some bubbles there. And bubbles are not structural. Take the grinder and flatten them to a smooth surface and put the next layer in. You want a nice clean smooth surface before and after the layers. That way you know there is no bubbles and a good solid repair. But you are coming along well. It takes some getting use to, But carry on. :thumb:
 

jinxd12

Seaman Apprentice
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Jul 25, 2017
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46
Ok have a few updates fellas. In the morning after drying all night it looked better than that last picture. I went and bought some 1708 cloth and better resin than the stuff I originally used Evercoat Thix.

Anyways I sanded down all the lumps and made it look nicer. Cleaned up the area and laid a layer of 1708 and used the new resin. The new resin I have is a laminating resin, not the stuff with wax. Let me know what you guys think. Looks 100 times better than my first try the other day.

My plan today is to get a 2nd layer of 1708 on top of this. Then see what I have to do to the bottom.
 

jinxd12

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 25, 2017
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46
Applied 2nd layer of 1708 tonight. It looks pretty good I think. Hopefully I can figure out how to do the bottom of the boat next. Seems like it's going to be alot trickier to get the resin to stay and not drip along with the 1708.
 
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