WA2200 Hydra-Sports Refurb Questions / Guidance

[kykatphan]

I bought a 1985 Hydrasports WA 2200 from a close friend of mine. He just got too old and had some health problems to do anything with it. It has been sitting approx 10 years. It has a 15 hp Honda kicker on it, model 1996 that hasnt been run enough to warrant a first oil change, and a 1994 Ocean Runner 225 that turned right over. He had it fogged and laid up when it last used it. We did a compression test, 120 all...
My concern is the floor stringers and foam.
I took the tank out, which is roughly 18" deep, 76" long and holds about 150 gallons I would say. It has some pitting, but I tig weld for a living in a shipyard, so I am familar with the precautions, gas-freeing and pressure testing of repairing 5000 series aluminum plating and testing to 2.5 psi with air. I have a vacuum box built to locally test pitted areas.
The stringers on the other hand, once I pulled the tank out, I noticed the wood was wet, rotten and crumbling. I know this is a kevlar hull, its stamped on the outside transom.
It has once appears to be a 1x8 wood underfloor joist both sides and the 1/2" plywood was attached to that. It was glassed over, but the glass was waving like a bedsheet. Thats what gave me my first clue. I took the two stringers of plywood out (fuel tank coffin longs) and exposed large blocks of foam which are glass encased best I can tell and are approx 15" high x length of coffin and 12" wide judging by the inspection hole outboard where the bilge pump hose goes over. The fiberglass on that side is also waving like a bedsheet.
Should I destroy the intact blocks of foam? Which poundage would you say the foam is? It is dense.
Should I cut the floor out to get to that outboard stringer?
These are just beginning questions, hoping that someone has one of these boats and can shed some light based on experience.
Thanks
David
Charleston SC

 

[ondarvr]

Start reading other threads here on the same subject and it will answer many of your questions and let you know what you're in for.

​You will need to gut the hull, it all comes out and then you start rebuilding it, Take pics and measurements, but don't be overly concerned about the original build details, they weren't when they built it.

​The foam is 2#, and it's all you need when replacing it.

 

[kcassells]

Googlesd the boat and looks nice. Get some pics up. Your going to end up removing the floor/deck, stringers, bulkheads, foam, transom, gunnel woods. Complete rehab for the age. But that waht's make it fun and cost effective.
Like Ondarvr said, take pics, meas, and make folder for future refernces.
Welcome aboard!

 

[kykatphan]

Thanks for the information on the foam, I know I am along way from there but it was one of my material questions. If it will ever quit raining here, I will make some progress. I have the tank out, and am having a new tank bottom and sides formed so I can tig weld it in. The rest of the tank looks good, which I will test once completed. The walls around the tank.... port and stbd were rotten. Fwd (between cuddy and cockpit) is solid except at the bottom. I am going to take that out. The aft fuel talk transverse bulkhead is toast and removed. After removal, i was able to get a pretty good look at the transom and the underdeck.. It is actually looking pretty good. Looks solid, which I still need to confirm, but no delamination or separation on the p&s longs aft of the fuel tank transverse and the transom looks tight.
I measured the foam blocks to be about 12" wide and then another long stringer outboard of the foam.. the stbd side looks to not be laminated, the port side does show delamination. I am still figuring how is the best way to remove the fiberglass over the deck floor, as I have no way or place to pull the whole top cap. ....