96 Bayliner 2050 - The Dirty Rotten Baystard

Mad Props

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I did not cap the strakes with anything. Just filled with hairy PB.

I wasn't going to do anything either but I decided to order 1708 tape so I guess it'll be better than new! Lol

I got the transom in tonight.. everything went pretty smooth.. got hairy pb to squeeze out everywhere so that's a good sign... hopefully I'll get out there Sunday evening so I can fillet around the transom and get a couple coats of 1708 over it..

The fun part comes after that.. trying to get the stringers cut.
 

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kcassells

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I wasn't going to do anything either but I decided to order 1708 tape so I guess it'll be better than new! Lol

I got the transom in tonight.. everything went pretty smooth.. got hairy pb to squeeze out everywhere so that's a good sign... hopefully I'll get out there Sunday evening so I can fillet around the transom and get a couple coats of 1708 over it..

The fun part comes after that.. trying to get the stringers cut.


Nice work! The hairy pb is all you need, glassing it over is a bonus!
 

Mad Props

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Didn't get much done this weekend... tons of stuff going on including my oldest turning 6 so lots of cleaning the house and stuff like that... but the party was a good time..

Anyways, I was able to get the keyhole matched up to the boat and sand down some nubs and stuff from gluing in the transom... fyi, I ended up using my plunge router with a pattern bit so I was able to get the cutout to match the boat exactly... I hadn't seen anyone do that before so I thought I'd throw it out there.

Tomorrow nights plan is to fillet around the transom and add 2 layers of 1708. Is there any benefit to tabbing the transom vs just doing full sheets of 1708 that extend past the transom? Seems like the latter would be stronger and less steps.
 

Baylinerchuck

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Yep, the latter is exactly what I did. Two layers of 1708, one overlapping the other by at least 3".
 

mickyryan

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Didn't get much done this weekend... tons of stuff going on including my oldest turning 6 so lots of cleaning the house and stuff like that... but the party was a good time..

Anyways, I was able to get the keyhole matched up to the boat and sand down some nubs and stuff from gluing in the transom... fyi, I ended up using my plunge router with a pattern bit so I was able to get the cutout to match the boat exactly... I hadn't seen anyone do that before so I thought I'd throw it out there.

Tomorrow nights plan is to fillet around the transom and add 2 layers of 1708. Is there any benefit to tabbing the transom vs just doing full sheets of 1708 that extend past the transom? Seems like the latter would be stronger and less steps.
tabbing just strengthens where its needed without thickening the transom where it could cause issues with the transom being too thick, but if you have preplanned that way i see no reason it wont work :)
 

Mad Props

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Unfortunately the weather man totally got paid to be wrong again yesterday.. Was supposed to be gorgeous and all it did was rain yesterday so not really much progress... All I got accomplished was the steering arm relief cuts. Thats fine with me tho, because I will get getting my 1708 6" wide tape in the mail today so I will use that to do a layer of tabbing on the transom tonight... I want to do the tabbing right when the PB fillets start to firm up a bit so it conforms to it and I don't get any air bubbles. Tonight (weather permitting) I hope to get the transom completely done.
 

SHSU

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Unfortunately the weather man totally got paid to be wrong again yesterday.. Was supposed to be gorgeous and all it did was rain yesterday so not really much progress....

The one job where it seems you can always be wrong but still be employed.... LOL
 

Baylinerchuck

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The weather has really sucked around here this summer. The river is still only 76 degrees. Way colder than usual this time of the year. The rain just won't stop.
 

Mad Props

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Unfortunately I've been busier than planned the last two days.. tonight I was able to get almost all the transom tabbing done.. I waited just a little too long for the pb to setup and it got pretty hard so I ended up with a couple small bubbles but overall it went well... tomorrow I'll sand down any nibs and get the bottom tab on and hopefully the two layers of 1708 on so I can be done with the transom...
 

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SHSU

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Unfortunately I've been busier than planned the last two days.. tonight I was able to get almost all the transom tabbing done.. I waited just a little too long for the pb to setup and it got pretty hard so I ended up with a couple small bubbles but overall it went well... tomorrow I'll sand down any nibs and get the bottom tab on and hopefully the two layers of 1708 on so I can be done with the transom...


Looking good, you know it will be stronger then before!!
 

Mad Props

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Glad to report that the transom is almost complete... got the rest of the tabbing on and both layers of 1708... there's a couple small bubbles that I fought with that I just eventually gave up on... how do you guess handle that? Grind it and fill it or just go with it?

Other than that, I just need to cut out the keyhole and put some csm to seal it off... then drill the holes and move on to the stringers
 

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Mad Props

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Quick question for the experts...

Does anyone see any good reason why I shouldn't install the stringers and glass them in their entirety before installing the bulkheads? It seems like it would be stronger and easier to fiberglass them in one long piece rather than having to cut the tabbing at every bulkhead. It seems like everyone installs the stringers and bulkheads together, so I'm not sure if theres a reason for that I'm not seeing.
 

Grub54891

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I built mine to mate together, before final installation. Figured it would be stronger that way. The original ones were not like that, and poorly put together.
 

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Baylinerchuck

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I used the bulkheads as a good place to splice the stringer halves together. Made for an extremely strong structure. My stringers were 13' long, so two pieces of plywood needed to be joined. The clamps are where I joined the two stringer halves.
 

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kcassells

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I highly recommend glassing all cut to fit pcs. prior to install. Flat work is quicker, cleaner and easier. Sort of like mass production. Tab em all after you set in pb.
Glass in entirety!! Soak out all exposed edges after you fill any voids and do wet on wet.
The tabbing of the corners is where you get the strenth of the two different pcs. joining together. You certainly can tab the length of the stringer first, bulkheads next then all the joining corners.
 

Slager

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I did my stringers as continuous pieces, covered and tabbed with fiberglass and then put the bulkheads in after. As long as the stringers and bulkheads are properly tabbed together, it doesn't matter which way you do it. I chose to do them separately so that each piece is isolated from every other piece, if water gets into one, it has to get through a bead of peanut butter and two layers of 1708 to get into any other piece.

I had 14 ft stringers, and I used a sister board over the joint, but the joint happened to fall right where one of the bulkheadsame sits, so the joint is double reinforced.
 

squidly

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This is very informative, Thank you for sharing your restoration. I have a Regal Empress I'm thinking of restoring. This is funny because I live in MT Wolf PA and work In Dover PA.
 
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