96 Bayliner 2050 - The Dirty Rotten Baystard

[chevymaher]

that was fairly close to.

 

[Mad Props]

Oh well... $40 is a drop in the bucket with this mofo lol

 

[Mad Props]

On a side note... I got the rear seat started... still needs tabbed and such tho... this might be as far as i get for a while... I'm going to the beach for a week on Friday and my wife's been gone for a week and comes home tomorrow so I'm probably not getting away this week lol

 

[Mad Props]

Soooooo I have a question for the glass gods... my wife came home today and I was showing her what I got done this past week and I was standing in front of the rear seat and the floor made a slight pop sound... I thought maybe the glass had a bubble there or something but didn't see anything... then my wife said she noticed the floor was bowing slightly where I was standing but I couldn't tell so we swapped places and sure enough it has some give to it.... kinda made me feel sick to my stomach so I'm hoping for my own sanity it isn't that uncommon...

just to recap, I used 1/2" mdo for the floor with cam on the underside PBed to the stringers and bulkheads. Stainless screws about every foot or so... then 2 layers of 1708 tabbing to the hull and then 2 layers of CSM with one layer of 10oz to top it off.. also 1 layer of 1708 tabbing at the seams... this seems to be a pretty standard recipe so I was kinda shocked to see it a little flimsy... got me wondering if I should add another 1708 layer....

HELP Woodonglass et al...

 

[mickyryan]

i use 3/4 on all floors ... we aint slim fellas and i don't like to hear glass crackin

 

[Mad Props]

I had the thought for a second but a lot of people use 1/2" including bayliner... just a little surprised..

 

[mickyryan]

bayliner capri and others are famous for rotted floors , i still feel they get rotted from cracked glass allowing water to penetrate.

 

[Grub54891]

Now that it's glassed in, are you able to access it from underneath? You could add some support cleats screwed and glassed in.

 

[kcassells]

Have you foamed it in? If not maybe some 4lb for structure. If it's flexing now then I smell trouble down the line with more peeps on board/waves action.
Kind of a bandaid solution after all that hard work. Wonder whats going on?
I didn't watch the vids prefer pics. Old school I guess. I do watch "splashed" vids.

 

[Mad Props]

Grub54891 and kcassells

Back in the first post on page 12 you can see my boats skeleton. The stringers are about 20" apart (same as stock)... All of the outer cavities are foamed with 2lb foam so i don't have any flex issues there... The problems seem to be above the fuel tank and ski locker. I would have access once the ski locker is cut out to add some bracing underneath... Fuel tank is covered tho and I don't want to cut it back out.

In addition to that, I was relying on the vertical parts of the rear seat to act as a stiffener since it falls about 1/3 of the way forward in the gas tank cavity...Its essentially the same as a bulkhead, just on the other side of the deck.

I'm just wondering if at this point I should order more 1708 and do another layer or two on the deck in these areas... Wouldn't be the worst thing, just more money.

I'm also wondering if MDO is not as stiff as most exterior grade ply...

Do you guys think 2 layers of 1708 would eliminate the flexing?

 

[mickyryan]

1709 would help but glass isnt strong in that direction thats why it needs support usually i bet i know why this is happening , you didn't put cross braces on top of tank to stringers? if that is only place personally i would cut down the stringers cut open tank area and fix it so you never have to worry again, glass it back in and bam done

 

[Mad Props]

Just weird.. I read lots of threads when doing this part of my build and there were lots of people using 1/2 ply with even bigger stringer spans... Maybe their floor flexes and they didn't notice it... I honestly probably would have never noticed it if my wife didn't mention it.. You can't feel it when you step on it.

I had to order more cabosil today from us composites so I also threw in 6 more yards of 1708.. mickyryan I've seriously considered cutting out the floor above the tank and thats probably the most effective way to address it, but that doesn't solve my problem in the ski locker area...
I think I'm just going to go over the center portion of the floor with 2 layers of 1708. That will be almost another .100" of glass. A side benefit is that will add a slight crown to the middle of the floor which will help shed water to the sides where the drains are.

Now I know next time that just because bayliner built it that way, doesn't mean is the best way... Next time is either 3/4" ply or more lateral supports.

 

[briangcc]

A thought on the ski locker. I'm assuming you have access to the underside, so why not add a couple stiffeners under the floor? Double up on your plywood. Can run stringer to stringer and if needed double up on the edges of the opening. Can PB sealed ply underneath and then for added measure tab across it so it doesn't move. Shouldn't affect the opening too much.

Just a thought.

 

[Mad Props]

I don't know what you consider "access" but my fat but isn't gonna fit in my ski locker lol..

 

[mickyryan]

do a reach around

 

[Mad Props]

I got out of that business after college... turns out it's frowned upon by unsuspecting clients.. and then they had the nerve not to pay..

 

[Mad Props]

I went full nerd today and spent my lunch break at work modeling my plywood floor and support structure... I then ran a finite element analysis on it to determine the worst case deflection at different floor thicknesses. Yea I know... somethings wrong with me..

Oddly enough, it turns out that a polyester fiberglass lamination has almost exactly the same modulus of elasticity (stiffness) as plywood. So, at 1/2" thick, and 500 lbs dead center of the panel, there is a deflection of 0.162" and strain of 1.7% which is well within the limits of the plywood and fiberglass. So at 1/2", thats basically assuming only plywood, but I did a layer of CSM on the bottom and 2 on top with a layer of 10oz cloth.
A layer of 1.5oz CSM is roughly 0.04" thick, so that times 3 is 0.120" plus a layer of 10oz cloth is 0.0154" giving a total addition glass thickness of roughly 0.135". So that in addition to the plywood gives my current floor thickness as 0.635"
At that thickness, the same load and location gives a deflection of 0.082".

If I add two more layers of 1708, the deck will then be a total thickness of about .723" which gives a deflection of about 0.055".

All that being said... Two more layers of 1708 on top of the current deck will reduce the deflection fairly significantly and I'm no where near the strain required to cause cracking or failure of the laminate. AAAAAND thats with a 500lb point load... I'm not a miniature human, but I'm also no cow... I'm starting to think the extra glass will suffice... I'll probably put a little reinforcement in the ski locker because I'll have access, but other than that... I think I'm calling it a nerdy win lol

 

[Sea18Horse]

Hasn't anyone told you? You never go full nerd!

Sorry! Couldn't resist. Anyway cool stuff.

Cheers................Todd

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhm 2 layers of 1708 for your deck is WAY overkill. With the underlying stringer support and flotation Foam,(if you use it) will stiffen the deck adequately. MDO actually should flex less than ACX plywood. 1 Layer of 1.5oz CSM on both sides of the plywood and a final layer of 6 oz fabric on the top side will be more than adequate. 1708 is basically used for high stress areas requiring lots of strength. Tabbing the deck to the hull sides with 1708 12" strips is a good practice.

 

[Mad Props]

Woodonglass I have an unsupported area of about 60" by 20" above the gas tank. Bayliner didn't have any crossmembers over the tank when I took it out so I assumed it wasn't needed when I put it back. The flex in the deck didn't have me concerned until my wife said she could see it moving, even though it was very small.

As Micky suggested, my biggest concern was maybe cracking the glass on the plywood, but I figured an extra layer of 1708 would eliminate the issue.

So it might be overkill, but I guess I'd rather that than a little on the skimpy side.