Sea Nymph GLS 195 restoration

[someone11]

How thick was the original transom? 1.5" thick is pretty standard for AL boats or the era.

1 3/4"

 

[Watermann]

I would cut all 3 pieces and plan on gluing, clamping and screwing them all together at once. Be sure you have enough glue on hand, Titebond III works really well.

 

[someone11]

I would cut all 3 pieces and plan on gluing, clamping and screwing them all together at once. Be sure you have enough glue on hand, Titebond III works really well.

What about gorilla glue wood glue? I have almost a full bottle of that on hand.

 

[Watermann]

How bigs the bottle? You have 2 faces to glue but I like that Gorilla glue too, it's like the Titebond Poly glue, foams up and expands so you have to make sure it's clamped and screwed well. I used the it on my Chief. Have to wet the surface with a mist of water or damp rag before applying, it needs moisture to activate.

 

[someone11]

How bigs the bottle? You have 2 faces to glue but I like that Gorilla glue too, it's like the Titebond Poly glue, foams up and expands so you have to make sure it's clamped and screwed well. I used the it on my Chief. Have to wet the surface with a mist of water or damp rag before applying, it needs moisture to activate.

Apparently I left that bottle of glue at home, guess I'll be buying some.

Another question- ive been repairing the cracked rib ends, just using flat aluminum over top the cracked places and re-riveting. But should I run the piece of aluminum to the next rivet (3rd one down) on this one since there's an actual piece of aluminum missing from the end and would give it more to bite to?

 

[Watermann]

Apparently I left that bottle of glue at home, guess I'll be buying some.

Another question- ive been repairing the cracked rib ends, just using flat aluminum over top the cracked places and re-riveting. But should I run the piece of aluminum to the next rivet (3rd one down) on this one since there's an actual piece of aluminum missing from the end and would give it more to bite to?

Hey anything to help strengthen and overcome the lack of engineering / abuse the old boat has suffered.

 

[someone11]

Some more progress today. Didnt get much done over the holiday weekend because the girlfriend was here, but was able to get stuff done today once she left around noon. Fixed all of the cracked rib ends and added the support pieces in the middle of the ribs. Also got the rest of the transom cut and glued. Used two 8oz bottles of gorilla glue (wood glue). Wiped the wood with a moist rag before gluing per watermanns instructions. Wish I had a few more clamps but I have 4 on each corner and 3 batteries and a 70lb pyramid anchor squeezing everything together, figure it should be enough.

 

[ezmobee]

Looking good!

 

[someone11]

When it's time to epoxy the transom, do I epoxy then drill the holes or drill holes first?

 

[ezmobee]

When it's time to epoxy the transom, do I epoxy then drill the holes or drill holes first?

You can do it either way. Some do like to overdrill the holes a bit first and them attempt to coat them with epoxy while sealing.

 

[someone11]

You can do it either way. Some do like to overdrill the holes a bit first and them attempt to coat them with epoxy while sealing.

Ok, I figured it may have been a personal preference thing. Me- I don't feel confident enough that my holes will line up when I put the transom back in after epoxy lol

 

[someone11]

Ok here's another question. I got the transom skin sanded down, its in worse shape than I had suspected. How crucial is it to patch this, being that it's on the inside of the boat? Should I leave it, patch it best I can, or just make a whole new one?

 

[Watermann]

You removed the transom skin from the boat along with the 100 solid rivets? No way I would ever return it to the boat in that shape I guess now that it's off, I say replace it.

You should always test fit the transom wood before sealing it just in case you have to cut or sand it more nottoo mention it gets scratched and dinged up when doing the fitting. While it's in and fitted properly then mark it for the holes to be drilled with a sharpee. Remove the wood and drill the holes 90 degrees through and seal the them good when you do the rest of the transom.

 

[someone11]

You removed the transom skin from the boat along with the 100 solid rivets? No way I would ever return it to the boat in that shape I guess now that it's off, I say replace it.

?? No solid rivets, was all held on by bolts/nuts through the transom. And it had to come off for the transom to come out, the thru hull fittings were through it as well. FYI this is the inside transom skin, not the outside that holds the boat together.

 

[Watermann]

Oh that was the inner - inner skin, sheesh ok, sorry about that. :facepalm: I would just clean it, SE prime and paint the sucker so it doesn't continue to corrode down the line. A nice coat on the exterior side of it would be good too.

 

[someone11]

Oh that was the inner - inner skin, sheesh ok, sorry about that. :facepalm: I would just clean it, SE prime and paint the sucker so it doesn't continue to corrode down the line. A nice coat on the exterior side of it would be good too.

Lol i figured you might have been confused there, yeah no way im taking the outer skin off haha. So no patching? Was planning on priming/painting both sides :thumb:

 

[someone11]

Obligatory gluv-it drying post!








Also got the inner transom skin patched, hopefully primer/paint tomorrow. The outer transom skin on the inside of the boat is primed and painted as well. Im leaving sunday after work for 3 days and have afternoon shifts today and tomorrow, so wont get much done until I get back. Will leave the gluv-it plenty of time to dry.

 

[Watermann]

If you have any gluvit left over you should consider basically filling up that keel seam area or working some gluvit into there, the keel seam can be a huge source of leaks.

Looks like a job well done on the side seams, enough goop to fill and run is always a good sign!

 

[someone11]

If you have any gluvit left over you should consider basically filling up that keel seam area or working some gluvit into there, the keel seam can be a huge source of leaks.

Looks like a job well done on the side seams, enough goop to fill and run is always a good sign!

The picture doesnt show it well but I did gloop quite a bit in there, and yes it did leak lol

 

[someone11]

Heres a better picture