Sea Nymph GLS 195 restoration

[someone11]

Question- Does anyone know what size the rivets are in the hull?

 

[Watermann]

Solid rivets are 3/16" diameter brazier head 2117 alloy and length depends on how many layers they're going through 3/8" long for 2 layers and 7/16" for 3.

 

[someone11]

Solid rivets are 3/16" diameter brazier head 2117 alloy and length depends on how many layers they're going through 3/8" long for 2 layers and 7/16" for 3.

I guess I bought the right ones then. My rivets came in yesterday and the solid rivets looked too small. 3/16 looked too small in diameter. They will definitely work for putting the splashwell back together, I got 100 of them lol

 

[someone11]

Another question- I'm gonna need to paint the transom skins. I need to prep the metal for paint eventually. I need to keep it cheap and easy. Seems to be many methods on iboats- acetone, vinegar, baking soda etc. Any help appreciated on what to do

 

[Watermann]

I use Heinz cleaning vinegar straight in a spray bottle to soak the AL skin and then a fine wire wheel to work it into the pitting, spray again until the corrosion is removed and neutralized. Then I rinse the vinegar off with fresh water. The vinegar is acidic as all get out and will counter act the corrosion. You can't get much cheaper and easier than that.

 

[someone11]

I use Heinz cleaning vinegar straight in a spray bottle to soak the AL skin and then a fine wire wheel to work it into the pitting, spray again until the corrosion is removed and neutralized. Then I rinse the vinegar off with fresh water. The vinegar is acidic as all get out and will counter act the corrosion. You can't get much cheaper and easier than that.

Works for me! Just got to thinking, i need to order some more rivets. The ones I have now are probably a bit short for when I repair the cracked ribs. I dont need 100 of them but it looks like thats what most places sell.

 

[someone11]

Heres where im sitting at. Washed the boat out a bit yesterday after getting the transom out. Today I sanded some stuff down- cracked rib ends and part of the transom skin. I have some pitting on the skin that goes all the way through. Didnt get a picture of it yet.







Worse one



Hard to see in the pic but the rib is pulled through the rivet

 

[Watermann]

Yeah all that damage was most likely caused when the PO used the boat heavily with rot compromised wood transom, deck and panels. These AL boats need the plywood to be solid in order to keep their AL support structure from getting stress cracked.

Those rib end repairs are going to take some work but it's very doable.

The pitting on the skin is an easy repair with either the JB or marine tex.

 

[someone11]

Yeah all that damage was most likely caused when the PO used the boat heavily with rot compromised wood transom, deck and panels. These AL boats need the plywood to be solid in order to keep their AL support structure from getting stress cracked.

Those rib end repairs are going to take some work but it's very doable.

The pitting on the skin is an easy repair with either the JB or marine tex.

I think something may have been hit at some point too. Because the rib ends with damage are two of the same ribs, and it's in the same area as the cracked wave guard or whatever you call it on the outside of the boat. And honestly the transom is still very solid, just wet.

JB weld is the plan for the corrosion on the transom. I have some marine stuff laying around from last year.

 

[Watermann]

Is there corresponding outer hull damage from an impact? Most times the bow area takes the brunt of landing damage.

 

[someone11]

Is there corresponding outer hull damage from an impact? Most times the bow area takes the brunt of landing damage.

No outer hull damage. Only thing I noticed was a slightly deep scratch on the side that the rib is cracked the worse. Nothing too bad though.

Heres the two holes in the transom skin from corrosion. So far I havent found any other spots that go all the way through, a couple deep ones but fixable.





Not the best pictures. Lighting is terrible in this garage. Ill try to get some more pics of the transom skin tomorrow, and zoomed out. Gonna try some paint remover of some sort tomorrow to get the paint off the outside of the transom.

 

[Watermann]

Looks like you're doing a good job of getting that corrosion out of the pitting. Be sure all of that yellow corrosion crud is out of there before filling.

So what do you think of that smell comes off that nasty corrosion when you wheel it? I think it smells like dirty gym socks that are starting to mold mixed with wet dog. :heh:

 

[someone11]

Looks like you're doing a good job of getting that corrosion out of the pitting. Be sure all of that yellow corrosion crud is out of there before filling.

So what do you think of that smell comes off that nasty corrosion when you wheel it? I think it smells like dirty gym socks that are starting to mold mixed with wet dog. :heh:

Dirty socks smells about right :lol: I have to say though, sanding old marine tex is almost worse. That stuff is pungent!

Well the transom skin got a good sanding (inside layer) today and stripped most of the paint off on the outside. Does ALL the pain need to come off? Some of it is just being stubborn and some of it is in hard places to scrape off. First batch of patches went on this evening. May take a little while to cure since its only about 45 here. I have the drop light and a small space heater running pointed toward the skin.

Hopefully these pictures are ok, like I said, terrible lighting in the garage.


Outside







Inside








Not sure if you can tell from the pics but the top bolt holes for the motor are stretched out a bit. Is this something I should address? Or just use excess 5200 when reassembling?

 

[Watermann]

You should pull those thru the hull fittings out, pretty sure they'll be leakers with the old sealant if there even is any.

The mounting holes have a bit of oblong to them is a source for water intrusion and could be why the transom skin inside is so bad. Yes 5200 will seal the deal when you put it back together no need to worry about trying to repair them. It tells you the boat was used with a bad transom and more than likely the bolts were loose to cause it.

 

[someone11]

Working on sanding the inside of the hull down today. Just wanted to do a quick upload of the front rivet cracks in case there's different input on how to fix it since you can see it better now.

 

[someone11]

Slowly but surely getting clean. Almost done.Gotta do some sanding up front.

 

[Watermann]

Looking good, amazing how nasty boats get under the deck.

 

[someone11]

Looking good, amazing how nasty boats get under the deck.

My back is loving it! I think im calling it quits for the day, doesnt look like much progress but ive been sanding ALL day, minus a trip to lowes in the morning to pick up a corded drill. After I killed the first battery in like 10 minutes I knew I had to go get one, man did it save the day.


FYI- the batteries in the back of the boat are for weight. I have the front end lifted high from hosing it down, its really nose heavy right now with nothing in it lol

 

[someone11]

Quick question- cutting my transom today, looks like I'm gonna need 3 pieces to get the correct thickness. when I go to glue them all together should I glue two and then the third piece, or do all 3 pieces at once?

 

[Watermann]

How thick was the original transom? 1.5" thick is pretty standard for AL boats or the era.