1976 Grady White Transom Rebuild

kcassells

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Ok I am trying to figure out the best way to make this coffin for the gas tank. Since there was not one under the deck how to make the coffin?

Do I use plywood?.............Yes

Do I make a mold of the tank bottom (The way I think I will go)? ................You can give it a shot.

Could the stringers be used as sides for the coffin or do I need a separate layer of wood or glass? Yes but you need to have another ply side or back so still basically a box.


I know it would be easier if a tank was under the deck, i would have something to go by but I do not....Try to guess a center location for weight distributiion.


I created this coffin from plywood and I think would add too much weight after i waterproof. I was thinking of buying some PVA, and Gelcoat and make the coffin from the inside of this box using one layer of 1708. This box is made from 23/32 ply on the bottom and the sides and bulkhead are 15/32.
...Like I said give it a shot.
In regards to the box you made I would probably add a 3/4-1" wide flat strip on the bottom for the apex to rest on. I guess you could also pb the angle with glass on the underside. Don't forget the rubber pcs. on sides and bottoms to let airflow.

Anyone else want to chime in????????@help
 

demarko210

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kcassells

Thanks for the help again KC. Here is something I got from another website. Someone asked similar question.

Make the whole thing out of 1.5" XPS foam (blue board, pink board, green board) with 1/8" Meranti plywood skins. It will be light, insulated, and amazingly strong. Use 3M Fastbond 30 water based contact cement to adhere the skins to the panels. Glue the panels together with PL Premium adhesive (Lowes) and fillet with epoxy or other putty. Finish as you wish, if you select good Meranti, you can finish bright

This is saying use the foam board and glass over it. Here is a picture of the example they used:

XPS Foam-Doorskin sandwich.jpg
 

kcassells

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I have read about that technique but am not familiar enough to comment.
 

demarko210

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Still at it. Got the keel stringer out from under the cabin. Stringers attached and still waiting to figure how to configure that tank.
 

kcassells

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Pluggin away is good! Figgering is good too! Try to get a feel for the center of the boat cause that's where the tank should go. Also it's about the adjacent stringer heights and will the fill tube be below them when you run it.
 

demarko210

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KC that 41 gallon tank is not going to fit. I will just use my 18 gallon tank. Now if you look at this picture you will see an imprint for something in the center of the boat. My gas tank fits into this slot perfect but it fits directly to the hull. I think I will have to move it closer to the stern of the boat and allow the fill tube, pick up, and vent tube portray above the deck just under the splashwell. The tank use to set top of the deck portside up against the transom.. I tell you the next boat I rebuild will be better. I am already learning from what I done not wrong but could have been done better.Example like adding CSM to stringer before I install, then all i would have to do is tab to the hull. Alot harder to tab and cap the stringer with it glued to the hull.
0603171027.jpg
 

kcassells

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At the end of the day you coild have an aluminum tank made to fit and also check out poly tanks. Their are alot of options and new/used tanks out there. I ended up getting mine on ebay after looking along time to see what would fit. If my used tank fails I'm prepared to go new since my dimensions work to the gals. I want.
rehabbing is a learning curve like you said. Flat work with glass is the jizzy then tab later.
Sorry to hear it doesn't fit, look into the other shapes out that might. i ended up with a flat tank vs. the original style.
 

Revenge

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Jan 28, 2009
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Howard county.....Off Rt.94.

Maybe 2 miles from you by way the crow flies.

Sorry guys for being late to the party, but I live 20 minutes from you two. Wish I would've seen this earlier. Regardless, I will be following this thread.

Don.
 

demarko210

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sorry guys, i will be starting when the weather breaks. I got called back to work. I went over to look at the boat the other day. I see I will be doing some more sanding before i began. From what I found. The outter skin has come loose at the top where the kicker bracket and ladder sits. I know why. It was my first time mixing thicken resin and I was worried it would dry before I was able to lift the transom in place. So i basically did not put enough putty. What i will do is drill some holes and place the putty in the holes and create a rivet which is what i was told by WOG a while back and I did not listen. The transom is still in place solid as i left it expose to the elements. I have to replace the center stringer from the cabin on back. I still have not decided weather i will put the tank under the floor or just above the deck where it was(less work).

I almost boat a 2000 key west 1720 this past weekend but the owner was acting like he did not know anything about the boat. He said he wanted a bigger boat but only it owned for a year. That did not make since to me. This is my first boat i am working on and used it on the water 3 years and i am not use to moving back and forth to the dock with it. I know I am not ready for a bigger boat. Seem like he was trying to unload that joint. No thanks, ill just be patient and fix this up and buy a new/used motor and i am good.
 
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demarko210

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So I am here
 

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demarko210

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Tried to test fit the cap today. Just a rough fit. I have not sanded or cleaned it yet. I notice the transom is about 1.5 inches to high on the port and starboard. Ii will be making some cuts of the inner part of the cap. I want to make a new fiberglass bond to the transom and completely close the cap on both sides. Previously it was open with screws into the wood that failed. I will completely close the cap where I removed it. i have marked them on the photo. Any ideas how to cut that port and star side of the transom while it is in place like that?
 

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oldrem

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I know others will have suggestions, but the way I would do it is rough cut it to within about 1/16" with a jig saw then finish with my belt sander or grinder
 

demarko210

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oldrem if I use the jig saw I will be cutting 1.5 inch thick transom and would have to be careful not to cut the fiberglass. I was thinking the jig saw may be to small but it would be just right to hold at that angle. I may can cut it from the backside.
 

oldrem

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Oops, was thinking you were cutting the glass as well. Could clamp a guide board and use a small plunge router to cut most of it then chisel out the ends? Looks like a tricky one.
 

kcassells

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A good ole fashioned sawsall w/a metel blade. That will make quick work of it. Then sand it out.
 

demarko210

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kcassells I decided to go with this tool. From what I read on amazon it is very precise unlike the side angle grinder. I saw a video of a guy on youtube i think boat works today. He was using something similar and stated that he uses it in his shop and does not worry about dust particles. Its a 1/18 makita



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kcassells

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I always wanted to add that to my aresenal. That's alot of sanding. Looks like you need to get down 1.5"?
x 2 sides x @18"?. I would rough cut it with a sawzall then clean it up with that tool.
Looking forward to the results.:)
 
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