Stringer repair

[bjf66]

Before and After shot of stringers (although) transom was rebuilt as well

 

[oldrem]

Looking great.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Awesome

 

[bjf66]

Started using syringe for weighing out the catalyst for flocote, makes a big difference when you're at 1% plenty of working time to put down a coat
Decided the glare maybe a too much with white so used seagull grey

I might decided to do the inside of gunnels as well or break the 2 colours up with a stripe
Anyways thinking the grey looks a little better
front half of boat to go

 

[bjf66]

looking for a set of aluminium marine exhaust from paragon chev BB/mercruiser
if anyone has a lead please notify me
same as picture

 

[mickyryan]

just caught up on this , great job cant wait to see it in action....

 

[bjf66]

Vinyl rub rails:
Been cleaning out the silicone from joint of hull and cap, drilled out the aluminium rivots, as wasn't sure whether they were done correctly as some were broken

Will apply the 3m 4200/or 5200 to seal the boat and fill the mating surfaces then thinking of using bolts on the hull first before applying the hub rail

Been looking through the range of rub rails I can get in Australia, went to a few of the chandler shops are obtained a few samples to try them on the hull, both were 30mm wide, but contour didn't fit to good
There seems to large range of the push on rub rails available but not too many which need to be rivoted/screwed and glued

I need 50 ft (15m) allowing for some left over
started looking at following were the two better profiles I could find:
1. Italian Tesseimare radial 40mm wide fender, approx. US$302 + delivery: https://www.tessilmare.com/en/radial-40.html
NB: Need to pull the end caps separate, so most probably another US$60

2. USA made, Taco marine 1 7/8" (47mm wide) V11-2423 : Ebay best price for kit US$310 as complete kit http://tacomarine.com/product/V11-2423/1-7-8in-x-1-1-16in-Flexible-Rub-Rail

3. USA made Taco marine 1 7/8" (47mm wide) V11-3426, Ebay best price for kit, US$325.00: http://tacomarine.com/product/V11-3426/1-7-8in-x-1-3-8in-Flexible-Rub-Rail


​​​​​​At present favouring #3 as the profile looks like it will fit the hull better
Not sure whether to use black/black insert or Black/white insert on white hull

 

[bjf66]

Boat had a crack in fibreglass assuming from when previous owner had removed cap and reinstalled on hull, which had lead to crack along where side of dash
also the dash had been modified so possible the crack was under this prior to the dash modification

so decided to open it up crack and get back to fibreglass
was quite deep approx 14” long

will start repair shortly

 

[bjf66]

needs some more sanding however seemed to fill okay
used resin mix and some CSM/200 grm cloth strands in first layer, and then some PB

 

[bjf66]

last few days have been busy
dug out all the silicone out of the cap/hull joint line
re-caulked the cap/hull using Sikaflex 291, used 4 tubes*300mls each
A$22/tube @ Bunnings

 

[bjf66]

took off the old stickies which was a longer job than expected
Used a hair drier and scrapper, then cleaned up hull with a little acetone

 

[bjf66]

glassed the cap/Hull joint from inside, this was a little more difficult to get the hand and brush up under the side of the boat
used 4 layers 100-125mm wide, mixing 200 grms resin mix per shot
1* 450 grm CSM
1* 200 grm cloth
1* 450 grm CSM
1* 200 grm cloth
Hope full once i get the bump/Gunnel rail rubber attached the hull should be reasonable water tight except for the waves/wash coming over the side

 

[bjf66]

still need to make a decision on the vinyl/bump/gunnel rails, however still plenty of time to think about this

 

[bjf66]

Started on back of the inside of new transom where it joins the existing side curves
There was a little rough fibreglass there which was happy with
so started digging this out, and cleaning back to solid material
wetted it out, and placed some PB /with cut CSM fibre in there to smooth out surface
Then will lay down some 600 CSM and 600 grm multi weave cloth to get more strong joint
I'll post pics tomorrow

 

[bjf66]

finished rear glassing

 

[bjf66]

flocoted side gunnels in lighter grey (Dove Grey Gloss), tones in better,
sanded a few scuffs of flocote from floors will give them another coat in weekend
need to drill transom for bungs

 

[kcassells]

Moving along nicely BJF!

 

[mickyryan]

very nice!

 

[bjf66]

was finishing the flocote up under bow and inspected the glass as I was going and noticed that there were a few cracks on the glass.
So decided to grind out the crack
This looks like the top layer of glass had delaminated
Looks like previous owner had not cleaned up the glass prior to putting more laminates on top. However could be wrong and it could be just age

However decided to grind the lamination out
**** of a job, all curled up in the bow using a grinder, managed to get a few hours on it before calling it a day
Plan is to grind this out, go back to solid glass surface, then apply 600 CSM, and 600grm or 915grm muliti leave cloth

Then can final finish the flocote

I check the outside of the gelcoat and it was all good and know marks or cracks around here in bow area

 

[bjf66]

However while inspected outer hull came across a hairline crack on outside
crack is approx. 400mm long (16")
assuming this is gelcoat crack, as cant get anything to go in the crack

Will need to attack this from outside,
Not sure how to go about this, any suggestions would be good
I'm assuming will need to dig out
place some gelcoat repair


I ran reinforced glass down along the outer stringer prior to foaming the floor
so if the crack went all the way through then I know I have sealed it from inside

any suggestion would be welcome on the repair