Stringer repair

[bjf66]

built the sides of raised hatch today, glued them in place,

cut the scoop in two

looking to increase width of scoop

Options:
1. stretch the scoop 4"
2. stretch the scoop 6"


what looks best???

 

[oldrem]

Hmmm Drag boat?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Im more of a fan of no scoop..... however that is me.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I like the 6” personally. I think it will look better as you blend those straight lines of the cover into the curves of the scoop.

 

[bjf66]

Chuck

thats what I was thinking
however decided on 125mm split the difference
laminated a section last night to get the 2 pieces of scoop as one
will carry on in in 2 weeks when I get back from overseas

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I really like following along this build. Really nice work here.

 

[bjf66]

shopping list:
- 30 degree Imco water cooled risers on the way from USA, arrives around 20/10, so cant do too much to turbos untill they arrive
- purchased 4 * Eddie Marine billet alum engine hatch vents, they should be here tomorrow
- still looking for engine hatch hinges, was looking at either of these hinges
https://www.cpperformance.com/p-1264...re-hinges.aspx

https://www.cpperformance.com/p-1376...ch-hinges.aspx

carried on with engine hatch, working under lights outside as spring just started down under, and still dark at 19.00 hrs, daylight saving starts next weekend, which will give more time after dinner
mounted the scoop last night
however needs more grinding, more cloth to be laid, then more grinding
however starting to take shape

 

[Scott Danforth]

Mcmaster.com has those hinges

Your local marina probably has them too

 

[bjf66]

hatch project continues...

decided to go with these hinges
didn't here back from CP Performance regarding postage
mcmaster found it difficult with the idea of shipping down under
so left with good old ebay, shipped from USA, should arrive next week

https://www.cpperformance.com/p-13764-polished-stainless-steel-long-reach-hinges.aspx

laminated the final gurit board+300grm CSM + 600 grm biaxle on to board, strength scoop inside started filling the 125mm extension, lots of grinding, glassing, grinding
attached pictures of selection of sanders used, purchased pencil grinder from depot/bunnings and proved to be quite successful with getting into tight spacers

needs a little more filling in scoop...but getting there

so now where to place engine hatch vents
Have hole saw cut the yellow 2* 3" holes for front of hatch (I intend to powder coat the vents so dont look at the colours)
refer photo 1 and 2
Not sure whether I should put the other twin hole vents down each side of the hatch, or alternatively place them at the back

looking for some help, ...is it best to place vents at rear or on side of hatch?
refer photos
Option 1: 2 rear vents with 2* 3" Dia holes, total: 4* 3" Dia holes
Option 2: no rear vents, use twin and single side hatch vents * 3" holes, in total 3* 3" holes
Option 3: 3 rear vents with 2 vents of 2* 3" Dia holes, and 1 vent * 3" holes, total: 5* 3" Dia holes
comments please

Picked up set of BBC Keith Eickert 2 piece valve covers with spring oils at weekend swap meet for budget price
nice
https://www.cpperformance.com/p-16736-big-block-chevy-2-piece-valve-covers-wvalve-spring-oilers.aspx

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Option 1 for me.

 

[steve_h7]

Option 1 for me.

Ditto

 

[bjf66]

Hatch continuation
put hatch on/off hull to trim the sides of the hatch to make allowance for fuel fills
a little more glassing to do but its coming together

Need now to think about attaching hatch to deck
originally the boat was setup with outboard, prior to filling the rear deck in

Therefore need some help with what to do with hatch
Options:
1. lower the hatch height so its level with the top of gunnel, the hatch as is on the sides some 16mm higher than the gunnel
However hatch has slight taper from centre out to edges, so there would have to some board Gurit board on rear deck to get the hinges level and to blend the hatch into deck

2. leave hatch as is sitting up
build a border on top of the gunnel and rear deck to blend in the hatch to deck
this would mean rear, and sides of the hatch
hopefully the pictures will get the point across

A. build the surface of deck up, it remains flat profile as the deck is at present
B. rear deck following the contour of the rear deck short angle#
C. rear deck following contour of rear deck, long angle

ALL SUGGESTIONS WELCOMED
more glassing !!!!

 

[Scott Danforth]

Carb fiber or teak treads on top the gunwale

 

[bjf66]

decided that would build the rear deck and side gunwale
used Gurit 12mm board with 300 grm CSM and 612 grm Biaxle cloth
Looking at the gunwale it seems fitting to run the board forward to blend into the raised section of the screen area, this will keep contour of gunale shape correct


Not sure whether I like these longer stainless steel hinges, as they is a lot of side ways movement in the hinge
I'm thinking I should have gone with these hinges as they seem more sturdier without the side ways movement, which should keep the hatch aligned correctly when lifted and closed

https://www.cpperformance.com/p-1264...re-hinges.aspx

 

[bjf66]

fabricated up some 50mm x 3mm alum straps to go over the twin saddle tanks to hold them firmly in place as well as being bolted to floor in 3 location
Hopefully they wont move around at all

forgot to attach the photo of underside of hatch
I havent glassed the outer edges of the hatch, as will trim these if need to make the gap clearance between hatch and extended height gunale

managed to pick up some spare casale parallel drive gears with 1.40 and 1.35 ratio for US$100 delivered ...unbelievable
this is for the spare drive in case have trouble with the Hallcraft one that I'm using in boat

Out overseas for 12 days, unfortunately no playing with boat

 

[archbuilder]

That looks good, how heavy is that hatch?

 

[bjf66]

Arch builder
72lbs
you can put your foot on the scoop and it doesn’t flex
the rest of hatch is solid
I tried walking on it

 

[bjf66]

when building up the edge of the gunwale is its possible to bond Gurit/fibreglass vinyl ester laminate to the original gelcoat on gunale
Or is advisable to grind all the gelcoat off before bonding the new gunale onto boat or we can get away by roughing the surface with 40 grit to add a good bonding surface
seems a lot of differences of opinion

need some help from someone who actually has done the job as only want to do this once

 

[Scott Danforth]

grind off the gel

 

[bjf66]

scott

the glueing is to bond the new laminate to old gelcoat, then the new laminate would be encapsulated to more VE/CSM/multi weave cloth, then finished with gelcoat if I can spray it on

Therefore the glueing/bond between new laminate and gelcoat is important , however there would be layered with fibreglass once in place