Stringer repair

bjf66

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 6, 2016
Messages
406
Mick

Yes plan is to make 2 new tanks to the required dimensions as the space is limiting factor as no room in floor
missed attached photo

should be able to sale the existing fuel tanks to recoup some $, may get $300-400 for them
The existing fuel saddle tank is 560mm H x 800mm long (approx 108 litres)

The new design I can get 400mm length back towards the transom so only 600mm sticking inside the engine bay and then reduce the height to make them fit under proposed new hatch build
the attached picture may make the concept clearer
 

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kcassells

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The price seems normal to US $$ so at the end of the day you will have 48 gals right. Make sure the fittings on top don't mess up your plans. Yes to Neo and have brackets attached to tank for mounting.
Read up on this info....https://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm
Millions of opinions. Good to see you back at it.
 

bjf66

Chief Petty Officer
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Dec 6, 2016
Messages
406
KC
yes 2* tanks
each tank 114 litres (imperial 25 gallon, or 28 US Gallons )
total: 56 US Gallons

Thanks for the link I remember seeing this right up from David Pascoe previously but good refresher to have a read

I have one question
How do you equalise the flow of fuel between both tanks, and the fittings to the tanks for this line should be:
1. side entry 50% of the height?
2. coming in from top with siphon tube?
3. or doesnt matter
Im assuming should have ball valves on each tank to isolate the tanks if needed

has anymore a good plumbing sketch of how to do this??

cheers
Brett
 

bjf66

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Dec 6, 2016
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406
Water cooled headers:
Well after waiting 12 months for the imco marine BBC powerflow plus headers with 85 degree risers I managed to get hold of them today. Turned out the guy I was shipping through from LA apparently went into receivership, and some how the parcels got messed up
I purchased these April/2018
Have been chasing my contact down every few weeks/months ...10 months to be exact
Then Im on the internet last night looking for stainless steel fuel caps undecided whether to go flip up polished filling caps or more stream lined screw in, and was searching through brand names and put in imco, and low and behold I see my header listed on ebay Australia.......WTF
This happened at mid-night last night, so then I copy the pictures o listing look at the pictures the USA guy sent me and WTF ...they are the same pipes, could recognise the fitting angles and a scrap on the paint on inside of one of the headers
I ring my contact this morning at 07.30AM on sunday after having sleepless night
explain the story, send him the link, he agrees they are the same

Looks like the guy advertising them had picked up a spare box, my box, this is the reason we haven't received them yet

My contact phones the guy, he takes them off ebay, I travel 60 miles to pick them up

The guy gives me some **** and bull story about boxes mixed, up he only has had them 10 months
Did i mentioned there was 1 day to go on the auction.

I grab them, I'm gone
Happy ending

The pipes look big, happy chappy once more
seems the riser is 6" tall a little taller than the gunnel of boat
Looks like hatch may need to have a few curves in it to give clearance on the risers
 

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bjf66

Chief Petty Officer
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Dec 6, 2016
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406
Eric
yes mate I had a good sleep last night knowing I didn't waste my time and $

Now Im thinking how to use the imco manifolds and convert the risers to run the turbo, then get the pipes to breathe better
The current risers will need to be removed if running turbos
 
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bjf66

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Dec 6, 2016
Messages
406
Heat exchanger:
getting one of the HX piping changed a little as need to spin the HX around for Port side of boat and run back to front, therefore outlet pipes need to changed to the other side of HX
off to NZ next few days, HX will be ready to pickup on friday
cool
 

bjf66

Chief Petty Officer
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Dec 6, 2016
Messages
406
Got the HX back, painted both up
Now HX on port side a little close to water cooled exhaust as decided to run the Inco manifolds, which are a little bulkier than the edelbrock log exhaust manifolds

Decided to change fuel tanks profile slightly and mocked up the tanks in MDF this time one piece to get better idea
decided on using 3mm aluminium for the tanks, glued in where the tabs will go for locating tank to floor and gunnel
showing the port die tank
will lift the tanks 1/2" to allow for airflow underneath and around tanks
neapreme on bottom
The heights are 400mm at highest part of front section of tank and 350mm at
so will make sure the filing siphon pipe and vent is in front section, and was looking to relocate the send er to rear of tank as this will be closest to transom and assuming boat will be sloping backwards when sitting in water

Have ordered 2 stainless angled deck fuel fillers
I have a question on venting the tank
1. use highest point of tank
2. 16mm ID tube?
3. where do you position the vent to the external side of boat,
A. on outside of boat which will be lower than the deck filler
B. on top of gunwale where the deck fillers will be


Engine oil thermostat fitting arrived yesterday AN12 to AN10 ORB
drilled them out to 13mm ID to open up flow
ready to plumb the engine oil HX, remote location, Thermostat, accumulator, oil filter
 

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bjf66

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Dec 6, 2016
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406
Received the fuel tanks back from fabricator, made a good job, followed the mocked up tanks
had another AN10 and AN6 fitting added to tank
used 1.5" fuel fill
AN10- 1/2" ID fuel siphon pickup
Added 2 baffles (a little overkill) but at least fuel will be not sloshing around
tanks even fit inside boat where they are suppose to be
tomorrow making some pads for the floor to pickup the mounting tabs on tank
Thinking may need to grind the gel coat down and laminate some stainless nuts into the floor
pics coming
 
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bjf66

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Pics of the 3mm alloy tanks
 

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bjf66

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as fuel tanks will be sitting on floor and not hidden was thinking to gte them polished then decided they maybe too easy to scratch
Therefore looking to 2 pack paint them to keep them looking clean
anyone else have any idea ??
 

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bjf66

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tanks sitting in place ready to be bolted to floor and gunnel
 

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bjf66

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Dec 6, 2016
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406
So starting to think about how to mount the twin turbos
Have some Gale Banks log manifolds which have turbo mounted at back of motor, but been advised they might be a little restricted on the 509 ci chev engine
The Gale bank log exhaust exit through one hole 48x60mm squar
The Imco which are made to flow N/A engine starting 510ci have two exits 60x45mm oval, so nearly 2x the flow, and would have turbos mounted on top of the manifolds and centre mounted to the engine

Have some nice turbo 3.5" ID Dry stainless pipes, cooling water comes out the very end, would like to try and work these into the fit-out, however for this to happen would mean the turbine exhaust outlet would be facing the transom
these are 4.15/3.5" x 34" long, so would fall short of transom and need some pipes to go through and out transom

The Rajay 301E13 turbos I have here maybe a little small for the 509 ci engine, however could start with these and see how we go then look at upgrading to Borg Warner S400/T4 or T6 frames latter

Then I was knocking around the idea of fabricating some 90 degree elbows which would be water cooled which could bolt to the imco manifolds and adapt to the turbo
was thinking of using sch40 S/S 316 90 degree bends and then encapsulate this is stainless sheet to form the water jacket

juts comes down to where turbo will sit when finished
a lot to think about after getting fuel tanks sorted this weekend
 

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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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as fuel tanks will be sitting on floor and not hidden was thinking to gte them polished then decided they maybe too easy to scratch
Therefore looking to 2 pack paint them to keep them looking clean
anyone else have any idea ??

paint them white with a good 2-part. no way to keep them shiny once polished without a lot of work.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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use real tubing vs pipe. 316 stainless available in many places. Use 3" inner tube and 4" outer. start at one end, and match bend radius. last jacket will need to be split to cover. pressure test at nearly every step of the way.

Maybe locate the turbos above the flywheel housing and plumb back to your manifolds, fabricate the hot-side to exit where you want and the cold side where you need.

keep in mind your near your tanks, so no surface more than 200F (flash point)
 

bjf66

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Dec 6, 2016
Messages
406
So fuel tanks mounted made up some straps out of 50x3mm aluminium
purchased the niticle rubber to go between tank and strap
tanks need to come out and be painted

have cut holes and positioned the fuel filler in place

managed to connect the fuel hose

have a question in regard to location of fuel vent

have decided to install the full shrouded vent with 90 degree bend

I figure the vent should be in front of the fuel fill as this will be high point given boat will be sitting in water on angle with transom down a little

how far forward can you locate the vent?
at present I have marked circle in black pen on side of boat 400mm ( 16”) forward of the fuel fill

any thoughts ?
 
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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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attwood fuel vent?

the 90 degree
enhanced-316-stainless-steel-alloy.jpg


or the 90 degree p-trap?

1674-A_mn.jpg


Here is a link to the installation instuctions for the 90 degree.

http://www.attwoodmarine.com/userfiles/store/product/files/1327/69401-a-ss-flush-fuel-vent.pdf

Here is a link to the instructions on the p-trap type

as long as you have the loop on the 90 you are fine .

the vent is usually the lower of the two and that is so when you fill it, it wont come splashing you in the face out the nozzle hole. the top of the loop is usually higher than the fill.
 

bjf66

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Dec 6, 2016
Messages
406
Scott
I'm using the 90 degree (non P-trap) vent 16mm as shown in your pic
My issue I'm using saddle tanks they aren't under floor
Therefore distance between top of tank and top of gunnel is only 170mm H. I was thinking to mount the 90 degree vent 400mm forward of the fuel fill, on the engine side of the bulkhead separating seating area
If I bring the vent forward further 1100mm from fuel fill then there is a raised section of the cockpit, dash are where the height of gunnel increases another 150mm H therefore now 320mm H above top of fuel tank
Do you think this would be an issue running the vent line and 90 degree vent up front to get the increased height

Not sure how wet its going to get, however if shes that wet at screen level we may have to fit a snorkel as boat may fill up with water real quick

please see sketch and look at photos and you can see what Im getting at
only want to cut the hole once in correct location
 

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