1983 Galaxy Double Cabin 260

Shanestan

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Aug 30, 2015
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So I bought a Galaxy DC 260 with Aluminum trailer off Craigslist for $2500 back in Sep 2015. The boat started up and ran but he didn't have much gas in it. Overall it looked okay but I knew it was going to take some work. Wow I was just not prepared for how much I was going to invest in this.
 
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Shanestan

Seaman Apprentice
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Aug 30, 2015
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She is dirty but I have started gutting it. Everything is coming out to be replaced or updated. The electrical system is poor and not well thought out:

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kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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Welcome aboard! Lots of good guys here to help out. Take a lot of pics and meas. to put the gal back together. Demo is a BLAST!
KC
 

Shanestan

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Aug 30, 2015
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I have decided I need to split the cap. Here are some pictures why:

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Shanestan

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Aug 30, 2015
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Thanks to kcassells for responding to post. I am ready to separate the cap but working on putting together a gantry crane. The top I estimate to be 800 to 1000lbs, 90% in the bow section. I bought two gantry cranes from Harbor Freight, but not using the 7' wide I-beam. I bout two 10' wide I-beams and having a coworker weld up the plates to them so it can bolt. The boat is 8' wide at the gunwales and the carport is just under 12' wide. Should support the top when I pull it out.
 

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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Wow...some good engineering there. Shoot some pics. Nice project you have going on there. Interested from start to finish. As I keep saying in regards to my project just getting my feet back on the ground from some life changes so soon I can order some EEEEEEpoxy and get mine going again.
Take lots and lots of pics for reference later and ask alot of questions.
You're heading in the right direction. ;)
 

kcassells

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After that cap comes off make sure you have some sort of framing in place to keep the shape of the hull. It will want to contort to some degree and if not the cap replacement will be difficult.
 

Shanestan

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Aug 30, 2015
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After that cap comes off make sure you have some sort of framing in place to keep the shape of the hull. It will want to contort to some degree and if not the cap replacement will be difficult.
Are you talking about the hull will need it or the cap? I'm looking at getting a second trailer, build a support jig on it to set the cap on top and roll it out of the way.
Then the main deck will come out which was only held in place with (gasp) drywall screws. Then the engine will come out.
 

kcassells

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Yup... The hull needs a support structure so it doesn't belly out. The cap does not unless you leave it in a precarious position,
Great questions btw.
 

Shanestan

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Yup... The hull needs a support structure so it doesn't belly out. The cap does not unless you leave it in a precarious position,
Great questions btw.

Okay Kcassels. Thankyou! How would I do that? Support from the bottom or a cross beam on the top?
 

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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A lot of guys build a "cradle" to keep the shell in position. Checl out amincha or nurseman thread. They built some nice cradles. I don't have any specific pics.
 

Shanestan

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No Title

Made serious progress the past two days:
 

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Shanestan

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Here is the bottom side of the main deck. A quilt work of wood and resin. Is this really how they do it on other boats or was Galaxy the only company who did this?

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Second Chance 248

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Messages
113
The mold (plug) when built has many shapes and a slight degree of pitch to shed water. The squares are simply there for coring material. It's typical on the majority of FRP manufactured boats. Recoring can be done with full sheets of plywood, however care should be taken to avoid flat spots that could hold water and not allow it to drain off the deck. The slight degree of pitch can be mimicked by making 1/3 depth relief cuts in your ply and skim coating pb prior to glassing.
 

Shanestan

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Aug 30, 2015
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Okay, so the different shapes allowed the coring to lay down in the molding easier than larger pieces. So if i get the main deck to lay with slight curve (with it upside down, it would drop a little low, so when turned right side up, it would be a gentle slop towards the drains) and using the relief cuts would that work? The deck has a slight lean aft the way it was installed.

But I want to point out the non-symmetry in the last picture above. From the aft end looking forward, the right side is the port walkway to the stairs leading down which has large plywood sheets but on the left is the starboard seating area which has a bunch of little core squares. The core layout just doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me and even the 'doghouse' has about 4 or five squares of core with 1/2 square space in the middle filled with resin. This is where the seats are attached on the topside. Seems like it would allow too much flexing.

I certainly do appreciate your input! I'm trying to wrap my head around this, just want to get it right.
 
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