Dixie boat 170 , Floor , Transom , Stringers Rebuild. big job

Carpenter2486

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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May 14, 2011
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144
Hi Wood, what i Would like to do, is use gel coat on alot of my product right now, ( on all my newly completed stringers before i put the foam, as well on the transom, a few good coats to help with the water resistance. then again to use a gel coat on the floor when it is completed, gel coat with some fine sand to give that textured floor with all the water resistance as well it can be easily scrubbed clean.. all i was planning on using top coat paint for was mainly the top coat of the hull and top cap,, but if there is another option i am all ears.
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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25,924
NOT saying your can't but...Gelcoating anything that will be covered by the deck is not really giving you any benefit. Gelcoat is basically Polyester resin with colorant. It's a bit more than that but it won't offer anybetter waterproofing than regular poly resin. The Bilge is a good place for gelcoat and the bare glass is exposed so it does need to be coated with gelcoat or bilgecoat or paint. The Top of the deck is also a great place for Gelcoat with the added sand for a better grip. I'm all for that.
 

Baylinerchuck

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Jul 29, 2016
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2,726
I have heard crushed walnut shells, (pulverized) works great as an anti-slip medium. 5 oz. of shells per gallon. Don't quote me, but I think it adheres better than the sand.
 

Carpenter2486

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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May 14, 2011
Messages
144
Ok! Great advice all around. In that Sence I will save painting the stringers.. becuase no use waisting the paint if it dose not benefit. But all the other advised areas will get it. And I will look into walnut shells! I was going to use sand blasting sand becuase it's real fine and real inexpensive. But if they adhere better I am for them. Thanks again! It's been getting nicer every day hopefully have some update photos soon!
 

Carpenter2486

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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May 14, 2011
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144
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I was able to get a great deal off a friend for some seats, and a sun pad, they are off a four winns but with a few modifications and some new fabric they will be a great addition, now that I have this style seat my interior design has changed to a 2 front seats and a rear bench with a small sun pad on the back, I will be playing with this design a lot more when I get the floor installed, the only " iffy " part would be making the sun pad fit, I am aware it'll be very custom but if I can pull it off wile still looking good it will happen, last. we have picked a color that we both like, as well a paint design, it is a copy from the Glastron ssv paint design but it is a very sharp look. don't mind my terrible drawing , the real deal will hopefully be much nicer. for the fabric, the orange and brownish gray will both me changed to the same teal color as boat. hopefully you all agree ,
 

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Pusher

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Sep 2, 2014
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1,273
Just read/skimmed through your thread. Looks like you're coming along nicely. I'm curious, are you replacing the outer stringers?

It looked like you cut an arch at the bottom of your transom where the drain plug goes. Did you fill that with pb to avoid drilling into fresh wood?

With all the work you're doing and the openness you have to new ideas, you might consider doing seat bases like WOG did. I followed his lead and I'm SOLD on his method.
 

Carpenter2486

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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May 14, 2011
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144
Hello pusher. I did cut the arch in the transom for the drain. My drain hole is completely incased in pb . My goal is to eliminate all sources of water getting on the wood. As well yes I do plan on replacing the outter stringers . They are equally in bad shape. I have just not had time or weather to cut them out.. I did the stringers in stages, attempting to reduce hull warp or flex. And I actually have not seem wogs seat base idea..... I was going to buy some Attwood seat base's but again I have utilised so many of wogs ideas and made them my own in the boat . I would be much open to it.

Thanks for the comments pusher.
 

Pusher

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Sep 2, 2014
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I really like that idea with the pb. When I have to replace mine I think I'll do that too.

I can't seem to find the page link for the seats šŸ˜•
 

Carpenter2486

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 14, 2011
Messages
144
photos to come,

i have completed the stringers, they are all new and glassed in! finally finished! that feels great now, i also added a few extra supports wile i was in there, just braces on the main bow stringer, i go boating on a very big lake and i feel better now reinforcing it,, also i completed my.... plywood rail... that goes around the entire top of the bottom cap, that is PD and glassed in, now i have just finished rebuilding the top cap, from the transom chunk i cut out, and a few fixes in the bow,, now ... should i use 1/2 inch for the floor,, or 3/4.... from factory it was 1/2 .. and it lasted 30 years, but it was replaced once before,,, and i dont want the boat to be tooo heavy.... hmm.. what to do...
 

Carpenter2486

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 14, 2011
Messages
144
alright! i am finally at the computer and am able to mass upload my summers progress, floor is down glassed and foamed! stay tuned for photos. thanks for everyones help so far , im putting the boat away for the winter and hopefully finish next year!!
 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
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Jul 29, 2016
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2,726
Great progress. Only thing I see that may be an issue is the vent line for your fuel tank. Looks like your using clear polyethylene tubing? It should be a USCG approved material like reinforced rubber hose. You don't want to have any leaks there. Hopefully your just using it as a fish tape....šŸ˜ The fuel pickup connection on the aft end of the tank should also get an access plate. Just in case you ever need to install a new fuel hose or change the ant-siphon valve.
 

Pusher

Lieutenant
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Sep 2, 2014
Messages
1,273
Nice progress! Getting to the floor/sole is a bigger task than I ever expected.

Now you have to imagine all your adventures to come every day you come home from work this winter :-D
 
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