Monterey 225 SCR Full Restore, Repair and Customization

imp0ster

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 18, 2010
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Drive is on and everything there is good and shiny new. Two of my nidacore panels, one 3/4(bulkheads) and one 1/2(floor) are glassed and ready to be cut into shape. BTW 24oz Biaxle is a total bastard to work with.
 

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tpenfield

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I like the fact that you are using the synthetic core materials, just not sure why you did not gut the whole hull and do it all with synthetic.
 

imp0ster

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I like the fact that you are using the synthetic core materials, just not sure why you did not gut the whole hull and do it all with synthetic.


Dad wants to do it like this. Left and right floors behind the helm seats will be core. The storage locker floor and primary bulkhead will be core. The rear two bulkheads on either side will be core. The motor mounts will be built up with resined 4x4s, sealed then poured with Arjay transom pour. The transom next year will be stripped and done with core.

We only have one day a week to work on the boat and I'd never get it done by boating season if I ripped everything out. The rest of the material is in great shape but I do agree I would LOVE to have the entire boat be composite honeybomb. The stuff is insanely light.
 

imp0ster

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The primary bulkhead is in. Two 3/4" Nidacore layers with 24oz Biaxle and the pockets in the corners packed with cabosil. Needless to say it's beyond solid and could hold the floor of a 50' sport fisher. It will never rot and will absorb vibrations and sound :)

I decided to redo the dash because I don't like the way it looks and don't already have enough to do.
 

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imp0ster

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Were did you get the nidacore from? What did you use to cut it?


Fiberglass Coatings in St Pete. We laid it up first , ground the edges, attacked the surfaces with a 70 grit 7" wheel then cut it with a jig saw and a carbide blade. It's super easy to cut.
 

imp0ster

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Here is a cross section of the nidacore with 24oz biaxle. BTW 1990s Montereys (all of them from what I can tell) are built like total crap. 0 thought 0 effort. It looks like they got their crap together in the 2000s. Unless you plan on a full restore stay away. Luckily I LOVE the look of this boat and still got a good deal with the new engine and drive and mint interior.
 

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imp0ster

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Is it ok to use nidacore for stringers and the bulkheads?


ABSOLUTELY!!! It is stronger than ply. See below.

Dad remade the starboard side motor mount and resined the entire thing then encapsulated everything. The bottom piece of the mount is 3/4 core. It will never rot again and is far stronger than the plywood abomination that was in there.

The rear upright(stringer if that's what you wanna call it" and the rear bulkhead are in and glassed. It's time to do the floor. Then we move on to the port side.

I also finished the dash and wired in all the LEDs for night use but I didn't take pics so that can wait.
 

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Jcavin

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Im about 90% sure Im gonna go with core on my rebuilt. How are you attaching the deck to the bulkheads and uprights?
 

imp0ster

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a bead of 5200 and countersunk screws. It's very important to seal everything at the hull level and pack any crevice.

Dad wants to lay a sheet of glass over the seam where the new deck meets the old but with the strength of everything and where we cut they'll meet at a bulkhead so I'm just going to lay some 5200 between the almost non existent seam and paint over it so there's no obvious hump where the fiberglass would end
 

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Jcavin

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Do you glass them all the way up and cap them like you would wood?
 

imp0ster

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Do you glass them all the way up and cap them like you would wood?


The core is already glassed before it's cut. All the seams are glassed which is more than enough for structural rigidit. So yes it's all the way up. Later on we'll drill holes that lead into the bilge.

My dash is done. New gauges are in, I rewired everything in the helm and removed a bunch of nonsense, ran a new ground, put on new Contura Actuators and painted all the panels.
 

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Jcavin

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Thanks for the info. Diff going to go with the core seems like it will a little easier to work with as well.
Dash looks sweet BTW
 

jbcurt00

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Use of a core product doesnt negate the need to cover the seams between sheets. Meeting on a bulkhead w 5200 isnt the same as the continuous sheet of decking laided originally w layer of glass covering it.
 

imp0ster

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Underestimated the resin needed for this fun project. About 8 gallons into it so far. Have 2 gallons left of the 2nd 5 gallon pail and will need at least another 5 gallons to finish everything off.
 

imp0ster

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Added:

-Blue Sea actuator labels
-Schmitt Fantasy steering wheel & hub
-2 new Springfield swivel seat mount bushings
-Auxbeam CREE LED 60 degree Flood/Spot search light
-BlueFire dual USB waterproof outlet
 

imp0ster

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Starboard floor is done. We still need to do the steering ram pocket and grind the mat cloth lip where the floors butt. I'll cut out the port floor today and grind the floor around the storage locker to get it ready for paint. It was supposed to be done by now but we still have a lot to go. I'm hoping by April :(
 

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imp0ster

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Not bad for 21 year old Imron!! wet sanded with 1000, then 2000. Hit with 3m heavy duty then 3m finess it ii then meguires ultimate marine wax
 

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