Popular Mechanics 1962 PM38 Build [SPLASHED 2017]

[pekstrom]

No Title

Not sure how much longer I can wait. Although since the glue shouldn't be used below 55F I guess I don't have much choice...

But, I did start putting things together this weekend to see how it all fits. And I also need to sand a lot of the parts I have so I think I will work on that. I attached a couple of pictures of the assebled parts I have, just in case anyone is curious.

 

[jbcurt00]

Looking good.

Come on warm spring days

 

[archbuilder]

That is really cool pekstorm! I think a wood boat build will be my next boat project...looking forward to seeing yours come together!

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

Looks like a good first step on a thousand mile journey.

Count me in for the trip.

 

[Ned L]

Looking good! .... What are you using for fasteners?

 

[pekstrom]

Looking good! .... What are you using for fasteners?

Thanks! I'm using stainless steel screws. I looked at the silicon bronze ones but they were just too expensive for me. Oh, and I'm also using Titebond II wood glue for the framing.

 

[jbcurt00]

I'd recommend TiteBond3 instead of 2. Waterproof once dried

 

[Ned L]

Thanks! I'm using stainless steel screws. I looked at the silicon bronze ones but they were just too expensive for me. Oh, and I'm also using Titebond II wood glue for the framing.

Very good. ------ Bronze screws can add up. I've probably got close to a thousand in my project.

 

[Woodonglass]

I've been dreamin and researching wooden boat building for almost 30 years. It seems to me that the new deck screws are more than adequate for boat building especially if you pre-drill and then coat with epoxy prior to driving them home. They're rated for extreme exposure to the elements and hold up for decades on external decks so I'm fairly certain they'd be more than acceptable for a boat build since they'll be fully encapsulated in epoxy when the boat is finished.
But...I am just an Old Dumb Okie so I could be missing something. :noidea:

I also agree with jbcurt00 about the TBIII It has much better waterproofing qualities once cured, than the TBII. Of Course Epoxy is the KING when it comes to wooden boat building. Resorcinol is also good but only if you can exert high clamping pressure. It's also pricey.

 

[Ned L]

The big disadvantage about "deck screw" is the way the threads run all the way up to the head. They really don't allow the two pieces being fastened to be drawn tightly up to each other. If you want to go to the effort of drilling an oversize pilot hole through the first piece so the screw can free spin then they will work, but that really requires an 'oversize' pilot hole.

 

[Woodonglass]

Hmmm, Ned the ones I use aren't like that.... Spax Screws

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

With deck screws sometimes I've had to back them out and drive them in again to get them to pull the wood together.

 

[Woodonglass]

Another technique to use is to use a bit just a shade larger than the screw shank and only drill thru the deck thickness not penetrating to the stringer. Then the screw can't/won't lift the deck off the stringer and the resin will fill the larger hole left behind. Use masking tape on the drill bit to mark the depth to drill. But with the Spax Screws I don't have this problem and don't have to do this

 

[Ned L]

Hmmm, Ned the ones I use aren't like that.... Spax Screws

Oops,... I forgot about those. They would solve he problem of needing a larger pilot hole.

 

[pekstrom]

Good point on TBIII. I only got a 32oz bottle of TBII and figure it will work well for the interior parts. But I will consider getting some TBIII for the planking and exterior parts. I will cover both the inside and the outside with epoxy and probably also use glass mat on the outside. Those Spax screews look nice! The ones I use look similar with the non-threaded section near the head. Mine are regular philips heads though.

 

[Grandad]

A half century ago, I used silicon bronze nails to secure the 1/4" mahogany plywood onto the molded hull that I bought and finished. I measured each nail position about 1 1/2" apart, sunk each one slightly, painted the heads gold and finished up with multiple coats of varnish. Structural screws were all brass, but I think these days, I'd use stainless steel. And I'd use Robertson heads if you can find them on your side of the border. - Grandad

 

[Woodonglass]

The great thing about the Spax Screw is...You can use a Square Drive or a Phillips Drive and they drill their own hole. You pre coat the screw and drive it home it won't split the stringer. Back it out coat it with resin then drive it home. DONE!!!

 

[pekstrom]

Is there any particular epoxy resin I should consider for when the time comes to coat the hull? I have seen West System Epoxy Kit. Has anyone used it or is there a better one I should consider?

 

[pekstrom]

Here is another question I have been pondering for a while. Being just over 13 feet long, this boat calls for 14 foot chine logs. It seems difficult to find lumber over 12 feet in my area, although I haven't given up just yet. But in light of this I was wondering if it is possible to just join a couple of pieces of lumber together to make a 14 foot piece? I'm considering an angled cut and then glue and screw the two pieces together. Would this result in something that should work or should this really be kept as one piece to ensure it is strong enough? The chine material for this boat consists of a 1x4 cut down the middle at a 35 degree angle.

 

[gm280]

Here is another question I have been pondering for a while. Being just over 13 feet long, this boat calls for 14 foot chine logs. It seems difficult to find lumber over 12 feet in my area, although I haven't given up just yet. But in light of this I was wondering if it is possible to just join a couple of pieces of lumber together to make a 14 foot piece? I'm considering an angled cut and then glue and screw the two pieces together. Would this result in something that should work or should this really be kept as one piece to ensure it is strong enough? The chine material for this boat consists of a 1x4 cut down the middle at a 35 degree angle.

Well I wouldn't use a butt joint myself. A lap joint allows for a lot of gluing area and would be a good option. But that is just my opinion.