can of worms?

jrttoday

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I've seen worse ... ;)
Does the rest of the foam seem dry ?
me too, and I was imagining the worst. Except for the underside surface of the aft couple inches, the foam is totally dry and hard. Was also very stuck to the hull!!! The reason I skinned back 14" of decking is because of core samples drilled as far as 10" yielded wet wood in 1 place. Piece of wood? up against sump ps (left side as you look haha), I really have no idea why I didn't glass that, but it stops just short of encapsulated 2x4. And it's practically the same on starboard side, just not as thick.

And I "plan" on making one gusset 2" thick and twelve inches out to keel. Will re-use that 1/2" transom reinforcement wood for decking; after I cram foam back in.
I have a couple sheets leftover of 2" styrofoam and also plan on making some sort of box for added floatation. Will see how/where that works out.

In other news, my Dewalt died, again. I'm not a big fan of Dewalt, but... About the only thing I didn't like with the $30 Porter Cable was the 11,000 no load rpms. Bought the next one up, $42 w/tax, 7.5amp 10,000rpm. The only thing that I don't like so far is it's length. Maybe I'm too picky? :lol:
 

jrttoday

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Well that's simple .... It's made to keep your moonshine cold/warm so no one can tell what yer drinking . :watermelon:
We moved in across the street from Mr P******** when I was four - 1962. He was dinker, but only ever saw him with a Schlitz, never saw this thing until I bought the house in '90.
If there had been shine in that jar, you can bet it'd be empty by now and I wouldn't be working on this boat :bi_polo:
 

jrttoday

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Just ran into an old friend, she says "WOW!! you been working out? Except for needing a haircut, you look great!" :lol:
I had to laugh - because of this transom etc..... am cutting back on a lot of things :juggle: <<< my checking account lol
 

jrttoday

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you have to understand my sense of humor; what I cannot "afford" is to take things so seriously. The weight loss can be attributed to new medication and don't care to pay twenty bucks a pop for a haircut when I'm not out to impress anyone.

My mood is way better having this project to do, but the weather isn't cooperating lately. It's the dead of winter and I'm just trying to live lol, aren't we all...
People were laughing at my winter hat yesterday, but they couldn't get back inside fast enough - too cold for their behinds!! LOOSERS
I just don't get how the younger generation(s) is/are so whimpy?
 

jrttoday

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QUESTIONS?? do I need to remove the drain before pouring Seacast?
does antifreeze have any adverse to floatation foam? The underside of the floor deck has been wet at some point. Just want to prevent fungus - wood is not rotten anywhere, still very solid.. All else seems dry, very dry.
Am hoping to pour this week; but the humidity has been so high... haven't made the skin yet. I'm ready to rock-n-roll on this
 

sphelps

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You don't have to remove the drain . You can pour around the tube if you want ... Take a scrap piece of foam and soak it with the anti-freeze ... I don't think it would hurt it .. idk ..
 

jrttoday

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The Yard Report - managed to rewire my remote today. Soldering iron quit and had to use the propane; very tricky! - wind etc.
Not exactly sure how or if I really want to use antifreeze??? The deck's real solid, but did get wet.... some. There is roughly twelve to thirteen feet of floor, and the majority of that is not exposed to any foot traffic etc. I've surveyed as much as I can and there IS NO rot; but down the road it's bound to happen.

The question is practically moot, maybe entirely? There's no way of determining the extent of what got wet... and am considering pouring a gallon or two back aft and then raising the stern. Let it sit awhile, then removing as much as possible before sealing it back up.
I've got a small piece floating in antifreeze. Has been ten hours with no change. Hardly any foam submerged, floats right on top. Just wondering about long term exposure with what little is left behind. Or I could probably leave it all in there???

The things I have to consider are
1) not going to Bermuda
2) worse case scenario, I repair what needs to be repaired "when" it needs it
3) I take the step to try prevent it from needing it, and/or this step just lengthens the time span?
4) if I do nothing, this boat may or may not outlast my existence?
5) I don't want another, had others and been in a many; and wouldn't trade dead even for any of 'em. And I've been in some awesome boats
6) wow, who says writing isn't enlightening? Just hit me, not gonna do a thing about it, for now. If ever? maybe one day, maybe next winter... always looking a project. Thanks for not interrupting while I wuz typing!! :lol:
 

sphelps

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I have not used anti-freeze to try and dry an area out before .. I don't know how well that would work .. It might idk.. I know I would not leave any in there and close it up thats for sure ... If your feeling pretty confident the rest of the deck/stringers are dry then I would do the pour sister in any gussets or stringers ,close it all up ,and go fishing ..
On the other hand you can always give your self some peace of mind and cut some small exploratory holes up further do some core samples and continue from there .... You have already opened your can of worms ya may as well put them all on your hook ..:rolleyes:. JMHO ..
 

jrttoday

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that's just it, the nature of antifreeze prevents "getting it all out". I doubt flushing it with water would and then I'm back where I started. AF only kills bacteria that causes the rot; left exposed in direct sunlight....... doesn't seem to ever evaporate.
And that's my dilemma, it's an enclosed area. Apologies for doing it this way, but it's raining and cold.. not going to uncover for a better picture. This is my floor before I finished glassing and tabbing completely. Had not extended the gunwales yet, and needed them to be in their final position.
http://

the addition to stringers, not being Mr Fiberglass and often had air pockets; cut them with razor knife and PBd 'em before triple wrapping all with matt. Done in February with - not shown, but three lamps and covered for 1,250 watts, cured overnight. 2x4's first laminated to 1x's.



originally, had the one livewell on port and storage compartment on starboard. Couple years later, went back and made a 45 gallon livewell - how many 15 foot boats have one that big? It isn't about a slough of fish, but creature comfort :lol: before they go to their final resting place! I'm often out there all day and occasionally don't come back for a day or two.
Livewell is insulated with 2" styrofoam and holds ice real well, but don't always plan on staying ahead of time... it just happens :facepalm: :lol:
Point being, there isn't much open floor space. But standing and walking around on this barge is no problem.



Two monster batteries go underneath the bow pedestal mount for seat/leaning post - just forward of livewell. Also made a small storage with lid starboard of livewell, holds two vests and throwable, tools etc. Additional storage aft and under the seats for camping etc. 1,900+ pounds empty except for outboard and three batteries. Horsepower is warranted and she is built to handle it.
Think I've already said that the gunwales got three coats of epoxy because I thought they were kind of thin
 

sphelps

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You did all that with epoxy ? Done last February ?
Be careful seacast and epoxy have bonding issue's as with any poly based resin and epoxy ... Remember epoxy will stick to poly BUT poly doesn't like sticking to epoxy ...
You can always use a wet vac to remove any remaining anti-freeze ....
 

jrttoday

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nope, back on the 1st page/post #14 - that was six years ago. 5coats below waterline, 3 on the gunwales, and two on 1/2x6 fastened to the top (1/2" was triple wrapped with csm first). It was a 1/2" x 6" x 16" board that went from 0" bow to 4" stern; gave me extra freeboard due motor weight. Very low bow for pitching and flipping to Bass etc. And with a narrow beam, can still get back in places others can't :D:D:D
The flooring was covered with csm/resin topside only.
Epoxy outside only.
That was my plan, sucking out all I can; still wrestling with the idea. It's looking like Thursday before the rain quits..... and maybe, clear sailing for a few days after :D
 
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jrttoday

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I may be chomping at the bit, but the Universe is saying, "not today". 90 to a 100% humidity and cold, guess I need the rest...
In going back through this thread, I now see the yellow line!! wasn't there before??? The things I don't understand..... that might be a topic for another thread :lol:

Soooooooo, I did buy one gallon of acetone, is that enough? And two gallons of pure freeze - thinking of diluting? but..... probably use as is and C-saw the boat and side to side before sucking it out. My floor was PBd and tabbed bow to stern - and the top deck is glassed directly to the floor at the seats, console, livewell (which completely spans the beam), <<< actually everything in that general area is glassed to floor >>>, and have reinforcement brackets underneath the bow platform.
I do not EVER want to take that apart!! She may not look like a hottie, but she's got it where it counts - solid and sweet.

edit__ it isn't really much of a bow platform, can and do stand there occasionally, what else can ya call it???
 
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jrttoday

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thanks WOG!! might? I really appreciate those links! Put to rest some fears, the piece of foam is still floating unaffected after two days, but whatever AF goes in will not all come back out. I have come across the Chemotherapy for Rot link several times before, but have always gotten an error message - page not found???
I thought about this the other day and thought "not" because it "might be more work", but is it really? Maybe just a different approach...

And I "think" this is what I'll end up doing. There is no practical way of ascertaining the extent of water contact to the underside of my floor; and, unless that area is completely flooded with AF or whatever, I cannot be certain of complete coverage.... that being said...
My biggest hole saw is 2 1/8th and the deck is 1/2" plus an 1/8" of glass and several coats of paint.
Layout a grid of sorts and bore down 3/8 to a half, careful not to punch through.
Fill holes with AF and allow some time for absorption, or get my plunger out and force feed it!! :facepalm:
Afterwards, plug the holes with PB [[[ knowing that PB will not want to stick - really only wanting to cap it at that point ]]] acetone or alcohol might take care of that???:help:
 

Woodonglass

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Yeah, flushing afterwards with alcohol or acetone would enhance the ability of the resin to adhere to the wood. Personally, IMHO if the wood has to much saturation you be much better off to remove it all and start from scratch. Prolly NOT what you want to hear but... It is what it is!!!:loco:
 

jrttoday

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Was thinking that from the get go! and that's where the "can o worms" came from. That big sigh of relief from finding out it isn't so bad... nothing compares :)
I'm not thinking that it is saturated... yet!! The very tail, last few inches before the transom were wet on the surface only - that's the bottom side, duh! And I didn't take pics of it cos it was really nothing, but it's rained on those pieces now, wasn't gonna use 'em except for pattern to trace. If you'll look back at post #89, maybe you can tell where the csm is back aft, that it slopes downward a couple inches to the transom - which it did not quite touch the inner skin, but was also tabbed PBd to the transom.
Core samples taken a foot forward were almost completely dry. I'm just trying to buy some time if I can... maybe nothing lasts forever. I never really thought, in depth, how big a part the floor decking played into the structural integrity of a boat. Especially this one; it feels like you're driving a log :lol: but handles better
 

jrttoday

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and worms! for bait!! They'll do in a pinch.... sphelps for Bream, jigs, beetle spins, or CRICKETS! I prefer my tube too, but while digging around in my side garage for wood to use - saw horses, table for inner skin - I found this antique crickocage!! lol

http://[URL=http://s173.photobucket.com/user/jrttoday/media/DSCF0002_zpsofvbkx6k.jpg.html]

don't think the crickets will care if I clean it up or not? I KNOW I've inventoried that garage before - never saw that!![/URL]
If no one else is excited, I am!!! :lol: I know I know, get a life...:lol:
 

jrttoday

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while I don't mean to post every thought or instance, I've reached those Pyriten Years and quit buttbook for similar reasons. Boating and fishing are about all that's left...

Good thing this is taking a while and I'm taking my time. Am thinking perhaps the best way to attack the deck is with my circular saw. Faster, easier to set the depth; cut all the way across - better AF coverage, invert beveling for PB to have extra grip... decisions that don't have to be made today
 

jrttoday

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I came this close <I--I> to firing my project mananger yesterday :facepalm: He had me cut up some old galvanized fence posts and cope the ends; I'm not working at a steam plant! Just didn't have enough suitable lumber for a table to glass the inner skin.
And he always has excuses - going to the doctor... again, cleaning or cooking for the chili contest on Saturday, shopping , too cold and it's raining, no tools no budget for materials - make something work, thought you were......
And YOU are taking too much time.
Hey wait a minute, this is a one man show, entirely.
let no one say that they can't because....
 

gm280

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jrt, I have to say, ever time I see the title of your thread, I think of worms crawling out of a can. And I just had to look up that phrase to see how it ever got started in the first place.

Seem back in the 1950's, they actually did sell can of worms because at that time plastics and Styrofoam were not yet invented at those times or not widely used. And so once opened, the worms would start to crawl out and it was really hard to get them back in the can again. And that caught on with anything that could get worst if opened.

So I have been reading your post. Keep posting. :thumb:
 
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