Yamaha 40 HP 2 Stroke 2000 model General Questions

[sammyb]

Hi All

I have recently purchased a second hand boat with a Yamaha 40 Hp 2 Stroke 2000 model on it. It is manual start and manual trim.

I have a couple of questions maybe some of you could help. The first one might be pretty dumb but hopefully there is a simple answer.

1. When I start the engine in the water a strong stream of water comes out of the tell tail very quickly. When I wash the motor out at home I cover the water inlet with water in a bucket but the water does not get drawn up into the motor. Also if I cover the outlet with the ear muff type hose connection and have the hose on full, it takes ages for the water to come and it is a really weak stream.

Does anyone know what I'm doing wrong?

2. I was thinking about upgrading to electric start. I bought a seconhand starter motor and solenoid from a '97 model, I'm going to get a geared flywheel and then try and install it. From looking at the motor all the holes are threre to mount the starter motor so I don't think it should be too hard. I recon the hardest thing will be the electrics.

Has anyone done this conversion and how did it go? Any wisdom to be passed down?

Thanks in advance


Sam

[99yam40]

My C40TLRX works well with muffs
When was the last time the water pump was changed?
If you do not know, then pull apart and inspect and install a kit. Needsto be done every couple of years if not more often depending on where you run it.

There should be some interlocks to keep from starting in gear and switch to hit starter.
Also may need some modifications to be able to charge battery as it probably does not have the lighting coil under the flywheel or a regulator/ rectifier

[Bamaman1]

If I purchased any used boat, the first thing I'd do is change the water pump impeller and change the lower unit grease. Then, I'd pull the trailer wheels, and change the bearings. An impeller is a $25-30 job + grease. The trailer bearings are a $20 repair.

Nothing I like worse than getting stranded because of someone ignoring a maintenance schedule. I want no surprises on a boat.

As far as switching over to electric start. Unless you could come up with a blown motor to salvage for parts, it might be best to sell your engine and use the proceeds to purchase a 50 hp with electric start and power trim--if your boat can take 50 hp.

[Silvertip]

When adding electric start you do indeed need the parts you have begun to collect as well as the flywheel. Assuming this engine is a tiller steer, as for the electrics you can do this either of two ways. 1) with a key switch, or 2) a momentary push button switch. For wiring, the positive battery cable gets connected to one of the large terminals on the solenoid and it doesn't matter which one. The other large terminal goes directly to the positive post on the starter. The negative cable from the battery gets bolted to the engine block. A smaller gauge wire connects from the starter solenoid terminal that has the positive battery cable on it, to one terminal on the push button switch. The other terminal on the switch goes to the small (S) terminal on the solenoid. If the solenoid has a separate ground terminal that goes to the engine block as well. You should now be able to push the button and the starter will spin. Tiller steered outboards have the "kill" (engine stop) feature incorporated into the twist grip or a separate button on the engine so no additions are needed for that. Choke on a tiller steer motor is typically manual. Since the neutral start function is incorporated into the twist grip throttle system no additions are needed there. If this is a REMOTE control system then you need to add an interlock feature as well as a way to stop the engine from the console.