Yamaha 250 OX66 Fuel Rail

[jfbetz]

I am replacing the fuel rail in one of by Yami's and need to know about the clamps that hold the hose on, both at the top and bottom of the rail. Rodbolt, you suggested in a previous thread not to use hose clamps on this type of connection. Do you or anyone else have an opinion about using clamps designed for auto fuel injection fuel line connections. These clamps are somewhat different in their design than regular hose clamps and it seems with a small ratchet or ratcheting drill they could be secured quite tight, perhaps more so than the factory clamps. What say the experts?

[rodbolt]

experts reccomend what the factory does
sorry I forgot to look for the rail for ya, its on a postit note though.
the clamps from yamaha are about 9 dollars apiece and can be set with a CV clamp tool.
the automotive ones may work, never tried it. I know the clamps your talking about, completely smooth on the inside.
but there again I never tried it.

[jfbetz]

I figured they would be over-priced, not that $18 is going to break the bank. Pack of 4 auto fuel injectio clamps-$2.39. No worries on the rail-I found another used one.

I am looking for a couple lower unit cores though. I have another pair of 1994 225 yammi's that both have chunks out of the skeg and one has chunk out of the AV plate. FIgured it would be cheaper to get some intact used cores and re-paint them and swap out the guts rather than heve them repaired. Any thoughts on this?

[seahorse5]

For some reason Yamaha has obscene prices on those clamps, called Oedeker Clamps.

You can find the same clamps at any Evinrude dealer for only a couple of bucks.

[rodbolt]

I would have the old unit repaired, I have seen issues with swapping guts as sometimes the shimming doesnt get done correctly and the gear tooth contact pattern changes. not a good thing on used units.

[jfbetz]

Rodbolt,
I went and purchased the Oedeker style Yamaha clamps ($9 a pop!). My manual gave a rather convoluted procedure for the fuel rail replacement which included disconnecting all the harnesses and removal of the injectors. I simplified things a bit. I disconnecting the hoses from the top and bottom of the rail, removed the 4 fuel rail bolts, and carefully removed the rail. Pulled the injectors out only far enough to make sure rings and so forth were in good shape, re-seated them with a little yamalube, lubed the outer rings on the injectors, installed the new rail, crimped the hoses down (with an auto cv boot crimper-seemed like it was made for the job-thanks for the tip!) re-installed the 4 rail bolts and fired her up. All seems fine, at least in my driveway. Did I miss anything?

[rodbolt]

not that I can see, thats about how I would have done it with the exception of I would spray out the injector filters with some carb cleaner.
but if the orings are in good shape they can be reused.
good luck with it