Volvo Penta 305 1986 Bayliner Capri starter

[NavyETCS]

Went to start the boat last weekend, and all I got was a click from the relay. I used the troubleshooting guide and jumpered out the relay, and tried again. Still nothing. So I used a screwdriver to jump the starter, and it started right up, so I know it is the starter solenoid. So I remove the starter, since it is all one unit. The copper line going from the solenoid to the starter is pretty shot, so go buy a new starter from Advance Auto. They give me a starter that has the same mounts. I go to bolt it on, and the starter does not tighten up to the engine before the original bolts go snug. OK...time for some washers. I put the washers on and tighten it up, and all looks good. Time to wire it up. Problems.

The original starter had a large red wire from the battery. Check. There is a yello wire to the solenoid. check. The original had a purple wire going to another connection that does not exist on the new starter. Is that a problem? I do not have points any more, since the distributor is electronic now, and I thought that I read somewhere that the purple wire is for the points system.

Also, I was told to make sure that the engine is standard rotation, since the starter I got was for that. But, many boat engines are reverse rotation, I have been told. not sure if mine is, and that I need to find a special starter. I was pretty happy with a $45 starter vice looking for one more expensive.

The outdrive is a VolvoPenta 275. the engine is a 8 cylinder 305. The boat is a Bayliner Capri 21'.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Ed

[Don S]

So I used a screwdriver to jump the starter, and it started right up, so I know it is the starter solenoid.

That tells me the starter solenoid works fine.
You may have jumped the starter relay improperly. If you jump across A and B in the picture below, the starter should crank the engine over. If it doesn't, then you either have no power at terminal A or the wire on terminal B that goes from the relay socket to the starter is defective.

[NavyETCS]

I have been told that starting the starter with the screwdriver bypasses the solenoid and starts the engine. Well, no matter...already have the new starter ready to go. The problem still exists that I am not sure about the rotation of the engine, so am afraid to start it up with the new starter. If I can get some help there, I would really appreciate it...

[Don S]

It should be standard rotation unless some previous owner changed it over to a counter rotation engine. I have seen worse things happen.
You could look at the ring gear teeth on the flywheel and see which side is wearing. that would confirm the rotation if you are that worried about it.

[sqbtr]

The purple wire should be your resistor bypass circuit, if your starter doesn't have the terminal it may not be a marine starter.

Get yourself a test light and start at the begining.

Check for power at ign switch.
Check for power through ign switch
Check for power at neutral safety switch
Check for power through neutral safety switch with control in neutral
Check for power at terminal C of Don's drawing key in start.

[Bubba1235]

This is one of the reasons I tell people NOT to buy a replacement stater and instead take the original to the local starter / alternatopr shop and have them rebuilt.

[bruceb58]

Also, sounds like you may have purchased an automotive starter. You want a marine starter.

[NavyETCS]

Also, sounds like you may have purchased an automotive starter. You want a marine starter.

I realize that a marine starter would be ideal, but when I saw the prices, I balked. I talked to the guy at the marine parts store, and he told me that if I used RTV to cover the metal parts to prevent sparking, then I would be okay. He said that the marine starters are pretty much protected from sparking due to the enclosed engine compartments. So, I wired it up, put some RTV over the connections to create "boots" and then gave it a try. Success! The engine started right up and ran strong as hell.

The purple wire is not connected, due to having electronic ignition, and no need for ballast or resistor. The starter did not require any shims, thank goodness. It has about 4 washers on the bolts to ensure it is good and snug against the engine manifold. Seems to mesh perfectly with the flywheel. I hear no strange noises when starting it.

Thanks for all of the inputs, and advice. I hope I never have to replace this thing again. Kinda sucks working upside down and through a small access hole in the deck.

Ed

[bruceb58]

There is more to a marine starter than putting on RTV.

Not buying a marine starter is really not a good idea and you are risking anyone on your boat by doing this.

[Don S]

Automotive starter + unexpected fuel leak =

BOOOOOOOOM




of which you will hear about half of

[RogersJetboat454]

I realize that a marine starter would be ideal, but when I saw the prices, I balked. I talked to the guy at the marine parts store, and he told me that if I used RTV to cover the metal parts to prevent sparking, then I would be okay. He said that the marine starters are pretty much protected from sparking due to the enclosed engine compartments. So, I wired it up, put some RTV over the connections to create "boots" and then gave it a try. Success! The engine started right up and ran strong as hell.

The purple wire is not connected, due to having electronic ignition, and no need for ballast or resistor. The starter did not require any shims, thank goodness. It has about 4 washers on the bolts to ensure it is good and snug against the engine manifold. Seems to mesh perfectly with the flywheel. I hear no strange noises when starting it.

Thanks for all of the inputs, and advice. I hope I never have to replace this thing again. Kinda sucks working upside down and through a small access hole in the deck.

Ed

Your electronic ignition wouldn't happen to be a coil-in-cap HEI distributor would it? If it is, that is another automotive part that doesn't belong in a boat.

You balked at the price of a real marine starter, what does it cost to replace the boat and more importantly the lives lost after the fuel vapors ignite from the wrong starter?

As mentioned before, the difference between an automotive and marine starter is not RTV. In fact, putting RTV on the terminals may be opening up a whole new can of worms. Some RTV's contain a mild acid to etch the metal they are bonding to for a better seal. The release of this acid on an electrical connection can make for a bad connection.

[Bubba1235]

I realize that a marine starter would be ideal, but when I saw the prices, I balked. I talked to the guy at the marine parts store, and he told me that if I used RTV to cover the metal parts to prevent sparking, then I would be okay. He said that the marine starters are pretty much protected from sparking due to the enclosed engine compartments. So, I wired it up, put some RTV over the connections to create "boots" and then gave it a try. Success! The engine started right up and ran strong as hell.

Say what??? Who ever this idiot is, he is no marine mechanic. PLEASE get the right starter, we don't want to read about another boat exploding!

[88wellcraft]

Automotive starter + unexpected fuel leak =

BOOOOOOOOM




of which you will hear about half of

first time i've tried replying with a quote.....but....i love how Don is so straight forward.....maybe try getting your old starter rebuilt....from what i've done in the past it is less than buying a new marine starter...probably about the same as buying a new automotive starter

[88wellcraft]

He said that the marine starters are pretty much protected from sparking due to the enclosed engine compartments.
Ed

This is precisely why you need a marine starter.....the engine compartment is enclosed so there is nowhere for the fumes to escape.