Is that milky (water)? Kind of hard to tell. Just looks funny, but not really milky from here.
Is that milky (water)? Kind of hard to tell. Just looks funny, but not really milky from here.
Don S.
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as I poured out the old oil into the containers near the bottom found several drops of green coolant..
I know that's a bad sign and have never seen it before when changing oil in my old motor or any other I have owned.
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I would be pulling the risers off and looking at the gasket surfaces. Clean them up (risers and manifold) and post some pictures of the gasket surfaces.
If original, those manifolds and risers are 11 years old and used in Salt water.
Don S.
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I was reading one of your posts and it says,
You could have perfect compression and still have a cracked block. Pull the intake off and look around the pushrods, you will find your crack.
Even if the exhaust manifolds or risers had a big hole in them, the water would blow out the exhaust while running, not go into the oil.
I'm going to check that out tomorrow for sure,
if I have green coolant drops in the oil, maybe i have a cracked block?
The way to find out is to pressure test the coolant at 20 lbs right?
and the compression is fine I had the seller test it while i was there from 150-165.
The manifold looks perfect if flat.
As far as the AF drip, who knows. The engine has been out of a boat, who know what position it was layed in or anything else.
Pressure check the cooling system if you want, change the oil and run it and see what happens.
Don S.
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Hey Don, Thanks for the help!
Rob
With a motor that old I would replace all gaskets and the front and rear seals then give it a fresh coat of paint. I would also rig the motor up on a stand or cart and fire it up before putting it in the boat and check all fluids after running for a while, if something is amiss it is a lot easier to fix with the motor out of the boat. and you can go over the whole motor with a fine tooth comb and look for any problems before dropping it in your boat. You can pick up a remote starter pretty cheap and someone on the boards can help you with the hook up, you just need a can of gas and a water hose and you should be able to fire it up.
There is no replacement for displacement
2006 Chaparral 204SSi
VP 5.0L GXi-F with SX Drive
Superpop,
I agree with starting the motor out of the boat, been thinking of doing that.
Thanks for the reply,
Rob
update:
The oil pressure was up fairly high but now at idle is about 30, tightened the coolant cap and the af hose is firm, let it warm up temp in normal. Oil is clean not milky so far so good.
I like how it starts! revs up a bit at first then settles down to idle...a little history the motor has been sitting for years, but fogged and winterized.
if water gets into the oil does it get trapped in the oil filter?
I am really worried about the funny oil colour in the photo I took, is that from it sitting in storage or that folded over riser gasket ?
Nope, the oil filter is not like a water seperating fuel filter. What you see in the filter is what is in the engine.
You need to get the oil level up to normal level (on the full mark) and run the engine for a while and see if the level increases. That will tell you if you have a large water intrusion.
Also and engine setting around can pickup water from rain and condensation. Who knows how or where it was stored, I don't.
Drain the water, isolate the block from the exhaust manifolds and pressure check it. you should be able to pressurize the system to 15 psi and it hold forever.
Don S.
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So far I have run it three times and happy to say no change in the oil colour and level.
Thanks for all the information and advice Don S.
I'll be back, hopefully with more good news!
Regards,
Rob.
first time installing a Volvo drive.
Just adjusted alignment. I greased the end lightly and now the tool slides in effortlessly. found the neutral switch had moved out of position while hooking up the throttle,
that's in order now.
I'm ready to install the drive. greased the ujoints and the gimbal bearing. With red bearing grease.
can i use the water resistant grease 828250-1 for the engine coupler, the studs and the props?
strange there is no gasket like on m/c drives. I plan on using the 828250-1 grease around the drive so the round inner gasket doesnt move.
I have perfect seal, could i use that anywhere?
Anyone got an opinion?
Hadn't noticed it now has two pages....................
I have no idea about what greases you are using, but read bondo's signature line. ANY grease is better than NO grease.
Personally I have used Merc spline grease, and Merc ujoint and gimbal bearing grease on all the drives I do with gimbal bearings, ujoints and splined shafts.
You need a little bit of glue to hold the VW shaped water seal around the water port, and some grease on the mounting studs. NO gasket, and no perfect seal needed.
Don S.
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Thanks Don! Looks like i'm good to go.
Today was the big day! finally got everything done. Launched the boat, first thing I noticed was how smooth and quiet the motor was.
we have a no wake zone so after that the boat just jumped up on step, first run wot was 4600 rpm. next time was 5000 just for a few seconds I don't have a gps but man I was flying!
went back to the dock. no water in the bilge, coolant hoses tight, oil was same level, the temp, voltage, oil pressure everything fine!
one problem was the trim for some reason it was ok but after a while the trim gauge was going back and forth then the needle went to the top i went to the instrument panel checked the wires, then to the engine checked the plugs now it works again?