Hello Don and Crew,
I am the second owner 2001 2600 Sea Swirl Striper not one problem for 5 years. I took it to a shop here in SD in Sept of 2010 and they botched the job of replacing the intake manifold and the engine blew up from detonation. They put the distributor in wrong. I pulled the motor myself and replaced with "New" (not re manufactured) Marine Long Block from PPT in Oct. 2010. Boat ran fine for maybe 10 to 15 trips; some trips were 200knm round trip.
In the spring 2011 I started experiencing a foul odor (exhaust) and I had lost a little of the “Hole Shot” power however the boat still ran good on the top end and I didn't know anything was wrong. Then I was fishing with my son and the motor revved up just a bit and then stalled. It restarted immediately and ran fine for the rest of the day. We spent the night and I shut everything down except the bait pump which I ran on the #2 battery all night. I woke up and turned on both batteries and went to start the engine and I could not keep it running. It would start then stall immediately. Went home did a tune up just for GP and no change in condition. Changed out fuel filter water separator and things improved. Next time I was out it happened again.
This time I change the Fuel Cell, it was whining so I thought this might be the problem it was the original one from the time I bought it in 2005 I went through boat side fuel system and ended up changing the anti siphon valve at the tank pick up for good measures and checked for restriction at the fuel line supply. No restriction. I tried to start the boat and no change. So I pulled what fuel was left in the boat maybe 30 gallons thinking it might be the fuel. Fueled the boat up and came home and the boat started right up.
Thinking everything was good I launched the boat everything was fine. Started right up about 5 hours into the trip the engine lost power and started surging up and down. I went through everything all over again...filter, anti-siphon, opened the gas cap for ventilation checked spark all were OK
I invested in a Rinda Technologies Scan tool to investigate what was going on in the ECM through DLC connector.
Here are the original results.
Code 22 TPS Voltage Too Low
Code 34 MAP Sensor Voltage Too Low
Code 44 Knock Sensor Voltage Too Low or No Signal.
I pulled all the grounds off the engine and grounding block and cleaned them to insure I had a good ground.
I got the boat to run however it is a hard start condition. Cleared all codes and they have not returned. However what I have now is Code 33 MAP Sensor Voltage Too High. This one will not go away and the performance condition is still a hard start/then stall or a no start at all.
1 Tested leads from J1 and J2 connectors per MANUAL EF-YEAR EFI DIAGNOSTIC this is the same manual that all Volvo Tech use. Straight from the GM Engineers. Most were good and some were inconclusive to me. Remember I am not real good with electrical.
2 Vacuum reading 18in kph and steady
3 Fuel Cell bad again 18lbs of pressure both sides High & Low replaced under warranty. No change in performance.
4 Disconnect vacuum line from Map Sensor starts right up. Apply 10in of vacuum to map sensor and the fuel injectors (TBI) leans out nicely and run smooth. Idles nice.
5 If I apply the vacuum line to the map sensor for the backside of the TBI as it should be the engine starts crapping out and once it stalls it will not restart. Code 33 will return.
6 Tested map sensor for response and it checks out to be working properly.
7 OBD Diagnostics Inc tested ECM all calibrations are intact/ Bench tested and the ECM responds and works as normal.
8 All fuses are good.
9 MAP Sensors test result Good However 1 test connecting A&C (3pin connector) at the Map with Multi meter (question is) is the voltage higher than 4 volts (key on engine off) answer is yes to check for faulty wire connections at ECM or replace faulty ECM SEE#7
10 Tested ground leads from MAP and ECT Sensor to ECM J2 Good
Parts that are brand new: NO CHANGE IN PERFORMANCE.
DISTRIBUTOR Complete, CAP, ROTOR, PLUG WIRES, COIL, IC MODULE,
PERFORMED MAINTENANCE. fuel tank was cleaned and polished by The Fuel Oil Polishing Company Inc. here in San Diego
Fueled boat with fresh 91 octane.
Cleaned boat harness connector from oxidation male and female.
New engine has 180hrs
Engine: 2001 5.7 GSIPEFS TBI Fuel Injection
Model # 4012047287
Chart A4 starting on page 6-18 Yes I just had the fuel pump replace and primed per a Volvo Penta technician. All pressures are perfect 29psi on the high and solid 4to5psi on the low side.
DTC-33 starting on page 6-46
Yes to step 1 vacuum reading is 18in HG and steady. no restrictions (our altitude is about 1500ft Above Sea Level)
Yes to step 2 if I disconnect the 3 pin connector and run the engine it will give me a code 34 MAP sensor low voltage.
Yes to step 3 Checking voltage between A&C voltage is it higher than 4.0 volts It measured 5.01 (key on engine off)
STEP 1: Turn off ignition. MPI Models Only: Tee a vacuum gauge into the vacuum line
going to the fuel pressure regulator. TBI Models Only: Disconnect vacuum cap at
throttle body and install a vacuum gauge in the vacuum port. Start engine and
raise engine speed to about 1000 RPM. Is vacuum reading 14 in. Hg (44,5
kPa) or higher, and steady?
YES Go to STEP 2.
NO Repair low or unsteady vacuum problem.
STEP 2: Install CT tool. Place CT tool switch in the "normal mode" or "OFF". Turn off
ignition. Disconnect MAP sensor. Start engine and idle for 2 minutes or until the
CT tool indicates a stored code. Shut down the engine. Use CT tool to retrieve
trouble codes. Is DTC 34 present?
YES Check for plugged or leaking sensor vacuum fittings. Also locate and repair
intermittent faulty connectors. If okay, replace faulty MAP sensor.
NO Go to STEP 3.
STEP 3: Turn off ignition. Remove vacuum gauge and reconnect vacuum cap. Disconnect
MAP sensor electrical connector. Connect a DVOM between harness terminals
"A" and "C". Turn on ignition, do not start engine. Is voltage 4.0 volts or
YES Locate and repair short to voltage in circuit from ECM J2-27 to MAP
terminal "B". If okay, repair faulty ECM connections or replace faulty ECM.
NO Locate and repair open in circuit from ECM J2-3 to MAP terminal "A". If
okay, repair faulty ECM connections or replace faulty ECM.
DTC-33 Scan starting on page 6-72
In this procedure the engine would need to be running stable for step 1 to be tested correct?
Step 2 Is voltage below 1.0 volts? Yes 0.01 volts
Yes 5.00 volts.
Thank you Sir.
Last edited by Hurricane 197; December 13th, 2011 at 04:11 PM.
Reason: miss spelling
Would you replace the engine harness? It is 11 years old and used in salt water all its life.
It seems to be the main cause of the problem, and instead of tracing down the faulty wire(s) and it failing somewhere else do you think it would be best to replace the whole thing? This harness doesn't come cheap and the labor to diagnose is expensive as well especially when the techs keep running into a brick wall if you will. For the price of the harness one could burn through that same money very quickly in diagnostic procedures.
My 2c worth. The engine wiring is the most crucial wiring you have. If you are even wondering, replace it. My temp guage went out, and when I traced the wire, I found three butt splices in it. Sho'nuff, my volt meter read 12 v across the butt splices. The rest of the wiring to the engine was buttspliced three times too. So I DIYed it. It was only 7 wires, and as an added bonus, I eliminated the factory plugs and sockets as potential failure points, and wired directly to the guages, ign, etc. No rocket surgery degree required.