replacing tongue

[russelln114]

Hello guys. I would like to replace the tongue on my boat trailer. The boat i'm hauling is a 12ft aluninum boat. The boat doesn't weigh that much. I can push the boat and trailer through the yard with ease. I'd say mabye 200lbs. Anyway the old tongue is wielded on. I would like to know if i can just bolt the new one on instead of wielding it on. Any sugestions?

[LippCJ7]

Yes you can, there is no reason why you can't replace your coupler with a bolt on unit

[russelln114]

Hello guys. I would like to replace the tongue on my boat trailer. The boat i'm hauling is a 12ft aluninum boat. The boat doesn't weigh that much. I can push the boat and trailer through the yard with ease. I'd say mabye 200lbs. Anyway the old tongue is wielded on. I would like to know if i can just bolt the new one on instead of wielding it on. Any sugestions?

Stupid me. I meant trailer coupler

[russelln114]

Any suggestions on how to get the old one off (wielded on)without cutting through my bar

[LippCJ7]

Grinder is the only way, grind the entire weld down to the base metal and then start hammering upward on the old coupler with a mid sized sledge, don't be shy about it, it's steel anything you do to steel can be fixed, if the coupler doesn't start to separate then grind it some more and repeat as necessary until you get the old coupler off. try not to remove too much metal from the tongue but you shouldn't have to simply start grinding away at the weld at the coupler until its gone. Better to remove the steel of the old coupler then the tongue. Also get a flap disc for your grinder so you can get a nice shiny surface to repaint before installing your new coupler. Your looking at about 2 hours work total. Where are you by the way?

[russelln114]

Grinder is the only way, grind the entire weld down to the base metal and then start hammering upward on the old coupler with a mid sized sledge, don't be shy about it, it's steel anything you do to steel can be fixed, if the coupler doesn't start to separate then grind it some more and repeat as necessary until you get the old coupler off. try not to remove too much metal from the tongue but you shouldn't have to simply start grinding away at the weld at the coupler until its gone. Better to remove the steel of the old coupler then the tongue. Also get a flap disc for your grinder so you can get a nice shiny surface to repaint before installing your new coupler. Your looking at about 2 hours work total. Where are you by the way?

I live in Pa. I have another quick question. What size bolts should i use and what grade? I tried a 3 1/2 Machine bolt 3/8 and it seems to have a little play but 7/16 won't fit. The coupler is 2 inch. Should the machined part of the bolt stick out the other end. I wanted the stress to push against the machined part not the threads. Does anyone know what i mean?

[90stingray]

Yes the machined shank... or grip length of the bolt should be carrying the load. Use washers to make it line up right. Use grade 8 hardware all the way. If one bolt is sloppy and the other tight, you can always drill it out to the larger bolt size to make a tight fit.

[LippCJ7]

no the shoulder should not come out the other end, only threads, but you can use a washer on one or both ends without issue plus a lock washer on the threaded end as well, this should cover your shoulder adequately. As for Grade I think in your application Grade 5 would be more then adequate, don't let people scare you with the grade 8 bolt theory, grade 8's have a purpose and you simply don't meet it add to that the fact that grade 8 bolts don't bend at all they simply break, Grade 5 should be fine. don't forget to be careful not to overtighten the bolts, you do not want to pinch your tongue at all.

Wish you were closer I needed something to do tomorrow anyway

[LippCJ7]

wait let me back up how many bolts are there for your coupler to tongue joint if there are only two then you will have to use grade 8 in order to meet your load if there are 4 which is more standard then grade 5 will be fine, the difference is Grade 5 has a 85 ksi shear capacity where as Grade 8 has 120 ksi so you can see where this could be an issue as 90stingray said

[wifisher]

wait let me back up how many bolts are there for your coupler to tongue joint if there are only two then you will have to use grade 8 in order to meet your load if there are 4 which is more standard then grade 5 will be fine, the difference is Grade 5 has a 85 ksi shear capacity where as Grade 8 has 120 ksi so you can see where this could be an issue as 90stingray said

85ksi = 85000psi. For a trailer that will gross less than 2000lbs, grade 2 hardware is fine. 4903 lbs. is the shear rating for a 3/8-16 grade 2 bolt. That is more than enough for what you are doing.


Here is a chart from a fastener manufacturer.
http://www.nucor-fastener.com/Files/...r_Strength.pdf

[russelln114]

no the shoulder should not come out the other end, only threads, but you can use a washer on one or both ends without issue plus a lock washer on the threaded end as well, this should cover your shoulder adequately. As for Grade I think in your application Grade 5 would be more then adequate, don't let people scare you with the grade 8 bolt theory, grade 8's have a purpose and you simply don't meet it add to that the fact that grade 8 bolts don't bend at all they simply break, Grade 5 should be fine. don't forget to be careful not to overtighten the bolts, you do not want to pinch your tongue at all.

Wish you were closer I needed something to do tomorrow anyway

What do you mean by pinching the tongue? and the coupler has 2 holes on side and 2 on top.

[LippCJ7]

don't bend the tube steel tightening the coupler bolts

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Is the coupler is ok and it's just the mechanicals that are bad you can get a rebuild kit or take apart a new coupling for the parts.

[russelln114]

Grinder is the only way, grind the entire weld down to the base metal and then start hammering upward on the old coupler with a mid sized sledge, don't be shy about it, it's steel anything you do to steel can be fixed, if the coupler doesn't start to separate then grind it some more and repeat as necessary until you get the old coupler off. try not to remove too much metal from the tongue but you shouldn't have to simply start grinding away at the weld at the coupler until its gone. Better to remove the steel of the old coupler then the tongue. Also get a flap disc for your grinder so you can get a nice shiny surface to repaint before installing your new coupler. Your looking at about 2 hours work total. Where are you by the way?

Update. I took my trailer over to my friends house and man i'm glad i did. The old coupler came off without too much difficulty however due to the previous owners actions (long story) the area needed some fabrcation. . 2 1/2 hours later and good as new. We bolted and wielded it on. Thanks for all the help.

[LippCJ7]

Good deal, did you learn anything?

[russelln114]

Good deal, did you learn anything?

Learned lots from you. Thanks. I also learned why the coupler was bent. Previous owner must of towed from a bumper and he pinched it. It looks like he tried to straighten the tongue. It was close but my buddy knows his stuff and now i'm good to go.

[LippCJ7]

That's good news, happy everything worked out right!!