Need more tongue weight

[rcracerx]

Guys I have a boat and trailer project that was gutted and I have just finished getting the boat in order but I have some trailer questions. The trailer in my opinion is a little short for the boat but a new trailer is not in the budget right now. I looked at the axle and it is in a fixed position with no option of moving it. The leaf spring shackles are welded to the trailer frame and not adjustable.

I tow with a Ford SUV and need the clearance for tight turns so there is no room to move the bow stand further up. My problem is the tongue is so light that it causes a lot of bouncing and sway on the highway. I have a sherline tongue scale that I use for my TT loading but I have not weighed it yet because I can lift the tongue with one hand and little strength, I know it is way too light. I have plenty of hitch weight available and in my towing experience I would rather have more TW then required as long as I dont exceed the hitch rating.

My question would be can I just grab some heavy steel plates or possible even round weights that go on barbells and bolt them to the front of the tongue? I mean I know I can and it would add the weight but are there any problems with doing so that I am missing? I have a couple round 50lb old schools weights that I think I can lay on the frame where the tongue meets the trailer frames and bolt em down. Sound possible?

I guess the other option would be to get a longer tongue and move the entire boat forward, this seems like the "correct" thing to do but I am really broke after the boat rebuild and I would like to make sure everything is going to float and run okay before I dump money into the trailer. I think I need a dual axle trailer a little longer then my current one to do it right but as I said it is not in the budget right now.

Picture is attached and any advice is appreciatted.

Thanks
Rc

[Bond-o]

Ayuh,...

I think Both towing it as it is,+ Adding a Weight Set are Crazy....

You Need a Bigger Trailer....

[rcracerx]

Ayuh,...

I think Both towing it as it is,+ Adding a Weight Set are Crazy....

You Need a Bigger Trailer....

Well I do agree with you 100% - I wont argue that. But the fact remains that it is not in the cards right now. The axle is a 5000lb 6 lug so I am not overloaded weight wise just length. If it was a 5 lug 3500lb axle I would not even consider using the trailer as is. Any other advice for a "Crazy" guy to add some TW?

Rc

[Bob_VT]

About 8 years ago I lengthened a trailer, repositioned the front post and it went fine.

My trailer was wagging like a dog's tail before I added 30" to it.

It is NOT a simple thing but if you find a knowledgable welder and the proper materials you can do it.

We cut the tongue and added in the piece along with bracing.

[rrhodes]

Add the length. It is going to cost a lot more to replace the boat if you lose control of the trailer.

You can also add a Hitch extender. That would give you a little more clearance to move your boat forward.

[mthieme]

The axle needs to be moved back. This is where you're sway is coming from and will also take care of the toungue weight issue. This can be extremely dangerous.

[Bob_VT]

Adding a Hitch extender will NOT change the balance of the boat on the trailer or cut back on the sway/bounce.

The boat must be re-positioned on the trailer in relation to the axle. Now if you can move the axle assembly back then you will change the balance. Look at a tractor trailer as an example and you will see many adjustable rear axles and the majority of the axles are positioned very far back.

[rrhodes]

My point on the extender was because he said he could not move the boat forward due to clearance issues turning. If he added the extender which would move the trailer farther from the tow vehicle then he could try to move the winch post forward. He said the axle was not adjustable.

I will also add that the best idea has already been posted. Buy a larger trailer but since the budget does not allow you need to move the boat forward.

[Mark_VTfisherman]

The axle needs to be moved back. This is where you're sway is coming from and will also take care of the toungue weight issue. This can be extremely dangerous.

Moving the axle is a good procedure, although it looks like the winch stand probably could move a few inches forward and still not create interference issues.

Goal on a trailer is tongue weight should be 10%- 15% of the gross weight of the whole package regardless of how you achieve the balance.

[rcracerx]

Thanks for the advice guys. I think my 2 options are

1 - Buy a longer tongue section and move the bow stand forward, a little pricey. I was quoted $180.00 locally for a 3x3x96 inch piece of galv steel. After new bolts, nuts, washers I will prolly be around $200.00

2 - Buy a 18 inch extender as was mentioned and move the bow stand as far forward as possible without causing interference. Probably about $50.00 but it might not give me enough weight after I am done. The specs say to cut your hitch TW by 50% when using them, that would mean I wouldn't be able to exceed 250lbs. That is not going to get me my 10%, I was hoping to get about 350-400lbs on the hitch.

The axle is fixed and can not be moved I am sorry to say. Not sure what I am going to do yet, if I can source the steel cheaper I am leaning that way.

Rc

[spktho]

The axle is fixed and can not be moved I am sorry to say. Not sure what I am going to do yet, if I can source the steel cheaper I am leaning that way.

Rc

I think moving the axle is your best and least expensive option. Grind off the leaf spring connectors and have them welded further back. The axle is usually held to the leaf springs by a couple of U bolts.

[mla2ofus]

Buy some new spring hangers like the ones welded to the tlr frame and see what it would cost to have the new ones welded on. When you take it to the weldor, have a floor jack,TW scale and two axle stands. Jack and block tlr, remove the axle, move axle stands ahead of original axle center and lower tlr on stands. Check tongue wt and keep moving stands ahead of original axle center until desired TW is achieved and mount new hangers so axle center is at this point.Make certain the front hangers are EXACT same distance from hitch centerline.Cut the ears off old hangers and don't worry about what's left welded to frame.
HTH,
Mike

[spktho]

Good point, new brackets welded and leave the old one if they aren't in the way--less work.

[crb478]

Thanks for the advice guys. I think my 2 options are

1 - Buy a longer tongue section and move the bow stand forward, a little pricey. I was quoted $180.00 locally for a 3x3x96 inch piece of galv steel. After new bolts, nuts, washers I will prolly be around $200.00

2 - Buy a 18 inch extender as was mentioned and move the bow stand as far forward as possible without causing interference. Probably about $50.00 but it might not give me enough weight after I am done. The specs say to cut your hitch TW by 50% when using them, that would mean I wouldn't be able to exceed 250lbs. That is not going to get me my 10%, I was hoping to get about 350-400lbs on the hitch.

The axle is fixed and can not be moved I am sorry to say. Not sure what I am going to do yet, if I can source the steel cheaper I am leaning that way.

Rc

Try a scrap steel place for the 3X3 tubing. They sell it by the pound and here it is 25 cents a pound. I just bought a piece of 4X4 galvanized tubing that had some plates welded on it that I needed for a boat lift. It was a little over 13 feet long and weighed almost 200 lbs. It cost me $48.00. That would give you a longer tounge for a smaller investment. For a straight length of 3x3 you would probably have less than 1/2 that in it.

Personally I would make a longer tounge and move the axle, but then I do have a welder at home. Then I would try it out to see how it handled and see if I thought it needed a second axle.

[reelfishin]

Got any pics of the way it is now?

I'd consider lengthening the tongue and seeing if the axle is adjustable.
If you can move the bow stop forward and readjust the bunks and boat position, you may not have to worry about the axle.
If it's a tilt trailer, then the tongue replacement maybe be easier since many just attached with a single through bolt.
Need some pics to tell.

[Mark_VTfisherman]

...The axle is fixed and can not be moved I am sorry to say. Not sure what I am going to do yet, if I can source the steel cheaper I am leaning that way...

OK- you have been offered some good suggestions here. I take for granted that I have a welder and can fabricate, but apparently that is not an available remedy for you. If you can merely add to your tongue with used steel go for it.

However, do you have a friend who has grinders, sawzall, welder? Maybe you can ask a favor? If you were somewhat close to me I would offer my services... Moving the axle is the quickest route.

I understand the no-buck approach - it's been a pretty dry winter for me and I know what it is to shoestring a job. Your fix is very doable with the right friend and the right tools.

[Jeep Man]

IMO extending the tongue can be very inexpensive and solve a few problems at once. 2 to 3 ft. of 3x3 steel with a 6 in. sleeve to fit inside would give you strength and room to move the boat forward to give proper TW, AND give you more manoverability when backing up. One quick weld and your done, and the boat can stay on the trailer during surgery.

[Shizzy]

Thanks for the advice guys. I think my 2 options are

1 - Buy a longer tongue section and move the bow stand forward, a little pricey. I was quoted $180.00 locally for a 3x3x96 inch piece of galv steel. After new bolts, nuts, washers I will prolly be around $200.00
if I can source the steel cheaper I am leaning that way.

Rc

why are you being quoted for such a length? Most steel suppliers will sell you any length you need. is the trailer galvanized? if not I dont see the gain that far up the trailer. its never going to get wet.

I checked locally here and a 3' chunk of 3 x 3 steel is only $43. maybe even cheaper if the place has an odd length scrap piece.

you can also ask the Welding shop if they give any discount for paying in cash. some places prefer dealing in cash.

[Navy Jr.]

Guys I have a boat and trailer project that was gutted and I have just finished getting the boat in order but I have some trailer questions. The trailer in my opinion is a little short for the boat but a new trailer is not in the budget right now.

I've been following this thread for a while. It appears others have, as well. As this is written there have been 160 views of it.

Yes, there have been some ideas here that sound pretty good, many of them ideas I'm not qualified to comment on because I don't know a darn thing about welding or fabrication. But here's the deal. The trailer is simply the wrong size for the boat. If you look at the picture, it looks like there's a good 8 inches hanging over the back of it. I'm not a professional boat trailerologist, but that can't be a good thing.

It's great that the OP is asking for ideas. He knows he can't continue towing the trailer like it is. It's too dangerous; just waiting for something horrible to happen. But my concern is the solution may turn out to be worse than the original problem.

As others have mentioned, the best solution is a different trailer, one that fits the boat. Yes, we understand it isn't in the budget. Is it possible to find a right-sized used trailer with an axle that can be adjusted? And how much would one cost? Maybe we could take up a collection!

[rcracerx]

Thanks everyone for the replies and the help. I have decided I am going to extend the tongue for all of the reasons that have been said. I am going to wait until next weekend and hit the local Steel company and see if I can buy the material cheaper than I was quoted. I was quoted from the local trailer store so I assume they have a nice mark up on the material and the bulk steel supplier will have a better price.

I really don't want to get into the axle thing right now because I know that once they come apart they will need some work to get back together. Everything is rusty and will probably break apart upon removal. I am just not ready to get into new springs & hardware right now. I just finished the boat and have not even had it on the water yet, I don't even know if it will float yet. That is why I am very hesitant to dump a ton of money into the trailer at this point. Now after a sea trial and everything seems to be up to snuff I will consider my options for a new and or used trailer, possibly a dual axle with a few extra feet to spare.

Thanks again for the help and for the guy that offered to take a collection, thanks but I am okay. There are many others out there that would be ahead of me for a hand out. I consider myself very fortunate in this day and age to have a job and to be able to buy toys like boats and such. I definitely do not need or deserve a hand out but thanks for the thought.

As for it being a hazard it really is not that bad, on the HWY at 55-60 she is a little light but certainly not out of control by any means. Around town she is fine and I bet most people would not even realize she is light in the tongue. I have some experience towing trailers and in the summer time I usually clock about 6000 miles towing a 35ft TT that weighs in around 8500lbs so I am a little more in tune with whats going on back there then most folks. Not to say I am over confident or it is okay to tow with other then optimal equipment but I am aware of what I have connected to me and I take all appropriate safety measures to make sure there are no problems.

So as of now she is parked and hopefully next Sat I can get the material I need to extend the tongue and then I will have a better idea of what the next step will be. I have a sherline TW scale and if I can get the weights correct after extending the tongue I will be happy.

Thanks
Rc

[Grant Brown]

I just did the same thing. I completely replaced the tongue tube on my trailer. I removed the 8 foot piece of 3x3 and replaced it with an 11 footer bought at a steel salvage yard. Some careful measuring and drilling, a new coupler, chains and a few bolts I had it done for around $130.
All the welders I talked to were casually estimating me $200 and up to fabricate/weld an extension onto the existing tube. The best part is the new tube is 3/16 wall thickness instead of 1/8 for more strength.
The boat now sits about 2 feet farther onto the trailer with the transom at the end of the bunks. It handles perfectly and feels like it's got about 150 lbs of weight on the tongue which is about 10%.

The other way I thought od doing it is to ad a swing away tongue kit onto it and use a longer piece at the coupler side. More bucks but it would be easy and gives you some extra room on the driveway.

PM me if you have any questions.

Grant
Vancouver, BC

[rcracerx]

Just wanted to update this thread.

I bought an extended Ball mount that allowed me to move the boat up on the trailer about 10 inches. After the boat was up forward I had nearly 300lbs TW according to my Sherline scale.

I took the boat to the ramp on Sat about 65 miles from home and it towed awesome. I usually try to keep it under 60 when towing but a few times I noticed myself approaching 65 and had to slow down. Man what a difference a few inches can make!

Thanks for all of your help.

Rc

[Mark_VTfisherman]

Glad to know it worked out for you!