Depending on the size of your boat and the conditions in which you launch and retrieve, there are two styles of trailers.
1) Float-on bunk style trailer - Bunks should be as long as possible and conform to the shape of the hull to provide good fore and aft support to spread the total weight. For larger/heavier models, you may want to look into two sets of bunks. One set to cradle the keel and another further out for support. Keel rollers or guards can be used on the trailer cross members to provide additional support or protection. A float-on trailer is easier to maintain and works best in boat ramps with deeper water.
2) Keel roller trailer - Keel rollers must be adjusted so they support the keel and bear ALL THE WEIGHT of the boat. Side bunks should be used to balance the weight on the keel rollers. A keel roller trailer works out best in shallow water ramps.
Boston Whaler does NOT recommend using an all roller trailer. Side rollers can cause a ripple effect on the fiberglass. This could disrupt the bond between the fiberglass and the foam core, causing potential hull problems.
Nothing will discourage a new boat owner faster than an improperly set-up trailer. Therefore, we recommend a careful check of the trailer to ensure it is set up properly to the boat. Tongue weight should be between 5-7% of the total weight of the tow (boat, motor, contents, and trailer). If you have more than this, the front end of your vehicle lifts up and the rear squats, making the vehicle hard to handle. If you have less than this, the trailer is more likely to fishtail.
The winch stand should be adjusted so that the bow stop is located just above the bow eye with the winch cable passing just below it. Locating the stop in this manner allows straight pull and provides security in a panic stop, preventing the boat from riding up and over the trunk of the car.
You should avoid overrating or underrating the trailer for the boat. Your dealer should have an updated weight on your boat, motor, and contents.