EZ LOADER brake line rust,trailer less than 2 yrs old

[rdrsteve]

I have had continous problems with brake actuator on my trailer since I bought new Hurricane boat and trailer less than 2 years ago. Yesterday I went to use boat, brakes locked, boat won't move. Discovered the metal T-connector that takes the metal tubing from actuator and then distributes it to each brake line rubber hose is completely rusted to pieces and both rubber hose connectors off and crumbled to the touch from rust.awaiting reply from Ez loader HQ after talking to regional distrubeter who said "part not made for our type of salt water"....what kind of BS answer is that? Am I right in thinking this should fall under defective parts and be covered by 3 yr warranty?

[bifflefan]

As long as the warranty covers saltwater you should be good to go.
Did you ask him "what kind of salt water it was rated for?" LOL

[tpenfield]

Yup, probably rated for the 'low-salt' kind of salt water.

I have a trailer that goes into salt water and the lines and fittings are still good after 7 years . . . (It's a Load-Rite)

[bruceb58]

Do yourself a favor and replace with stainless lines.

[Mi duckdown]

Bruce58. that answer does not solve the warranty.

[bruceb58]

http://www.ezloader.com/

What is Not Covered:
Provisions of this Warranty shall not apply to any product which is found to have been modified or altered in any way; nor shall the warranty apply to any defect or malfunction which was caused by damage, unreasonable use, or failure to provide reasonable and necessary maintenance. The warranty will not cover damage caused by overloading the trailer beyond stated capacities, improper adjustment of the trailer to the boat or the use of weight distribution hitches in conjunction with hydraulic surge brakes. Due to the highly corrosive conditions a trailer is exposed to, rust formation is not covered. The warranty does not cover winches, lights, couplers, actuators, brakes, tongue jacks, springs and tires or wheels, as these items are warranted separately by their manufacturer.

Like I said, put in some stainless lines.

[tpenfield]

http://www.ezloader.com/

What is Not Covered:
Provisions of this Warranty shall not apply to any product which is found to have been modified or altered in any way; nor shall the warranty apply to any defect or malfunction which was caused by damage, unreasonable use, or failure to provide reasonable and necessary maintenance. The warranty will not cover damage caused by overloading the trailer beyond stated capacities, improper adjustment of the trailer to the boat or the use of weight distribution hitches in conjunction with hydraulic surge brakes. Due to the highly corrosive conditions a trailer is exposed to, rust formation is not covered. The warranty does not cover winches, lights, couplers, actuators, brakes, tongue jacks, springs and tires or wheels, as these items are warranted separately by their manufacturer.

Like I said, put in some stainless lines.

With all that 'stuff' that is not covered, what's left? It is probably just the trailer frame . . .

Seems like these warranties aren't worth a pile of poo . . .

[lncoop]

Yeah, I didn't have a good feeling about your prospects for any type of warranty coverage. Salt just seems to be such a deal breaker for everything. Makes me glad I boat in fresh water. Since it's only been two years you might point them to this thread and ask if they would like to turn some ill will into good, then labor under the assumption that they're not going to care. That way, if they step up you'll be pleasantly surprised rather than being unpleasantly surprised if they don't. That approach has served me well over the years, especially when I've been a nice boy. Good luck.

[captain zac]

Not sure about warranty but
If you are dealing with salt it might be in your best interest to take some time
and check to see if the lines and fittings are touching the trailer frame
if so everywhere you can put a rubber grommet between the dissimilar metals
If you can keep the two metals from touching the will lengthen the life of the brake lines and fittings

Harry

[Home Cookin']

most warranties don't cover much when you read them.

after you get it fixed, consider changing your launch/retrieve process so you keep your axles and everything above them out of the water--it's how salties have done it for decades.

And do you trailer where there is a lot of road salt?

Do you leave the trailer under cover so it can't dry out?

[rdrsteve]

Thanks for all the replies, I never got a call back yesterday from EZ loader national HQ, and the guy I talked to today at the regional office was better than yesterday's idiot who said we had a different type of salt water, but still of no help. Went to my dealer and showed him picture, no help there either. Stopped by local trailer repair place, he pointed out must be more problems because with the lines busted, no fluid thus no hydraulic pressure to lock brakes, so there must be other problems too. I am interested in the reply about launching without putting axles in water, how in the world do you perform this? I live in Florida, so no road salt, boat sits on concrete pad under awning all the time not in use. I will contact national warranty dept tomorrow and be as nice as possible...at first. Strange how the other end of the hydraulic hoses have connectors going to brakes and they show no sign of heavy rust, wouldnt they be of the same material? They must have been made at same time, been dunked in and washed out same number of times!

[MH Hawker]

most warranties don't cover much when you read them.

Sure they do. they provid a reason not to fix things.

[Home Cookin']

stop when the axle is just above the water. get out and push the boat off the trailer. Hang on to the bow line.

to retrieve, pull the boat up to the end of the trailer. hook the cable to the bow eye. crank the winch. A power winch is even better.

[bruceb58]

If the boat is heavy enough that it requires a trailer with brakes, that will be quite a feat!

[rdrsteve]

The boat is 20 ft with a 115hp yamaha, I would bust the boat up or kill myself or something terrible would happen if I tried to launch without axles in the water, I just don see how that would be possible, the boat would be way above the water

[bruceb58]

That's what I was thinking as well. My axles are probably 1 1/2 feet minimum under water when I launch.

[Home Cookin']

for keeping the axles dry, a lot depends on the trailer set up and how steep the ramp is; it is a harder feat as the boats get bigger. A power winch solves the retrieving side, though.
I get my axles wet, a little, with a 21' deep V and I don't have a power winch on it yet. Only do it 3-4 times a year. But there is a hose at the top of the ramp so I can rinse it immediately (no lines at this ramp or if it were a busy day, I'd move up to another hose). Never dunked my trailers for a 13', 16' or 17' boat, and used to not dunk for a 19' until we replaced the trailer from a break/roller to a "float on." (not my choice; it's a club boat and the trailer was $400)

[Lou C]

Honestly they, and their warrantee, are full of sh!t, I put a brake system on 8 years ago that I bought from Champion Trailers, there is NO rust on the stainless brake lines or any of the line fittings for that matter, and I am in salt water 100%. The thing about salt is you can't use cheap crap. I rebuilt my old trailer (galvanized Load Rite) using the best quality components, rather than buy a new trailer at mass market prices with low quality components. I have even found a way to make drum brakes last a pretty decent time in salt, it takes a bit of thinking and attention to detail.....

Oh and my boat sits high on the trailer, I have to dunk it to get the boat off, it's a heavy 20' boat, so it's all in the salt. The only thing I changed in 8 years is I replaced the wheel cylinders, but I learned how to keep water out of them, so they will last longer than the originals. I like drum brakes despite the drum brake haters, because for one they are self energizing and work better with lighter towed loads than discs, and there is no issue with the back up solenoid failing, and not being able to back up, free backing drums work well for backing. Finally, because of the return springs, they run cooler than discs on a surge system, I have measured temps on my drums and they are warm but cooler than the tow vehicle rear discs after stopping.

[tpenfield]

Honestly they, and their warrantee, are full of sh!t

Hi Lou, watch your language - you are gonna hurt my ears . . .

Stainless steel is the way to go. . . . I too had great luck with SS lines from Champion Trailers.

As far as keeping the trailer axle out of the water . . . seems impossible for many/most boaters. I'm lucky if I can keep the tow vehicle out of the water. It *might* be possible for roller trailers, but bunk trailers need to go all the way under.

[rdrsteve]

Ok, had a mechanic friend stop by today, took actuator apart to see how it works, obviously no fluid in brake system due to rusted connectors, Yet the brakes are Locked up...how can they be locked up with no fluid in lines? Took emergency stop cable out also so it can't be problem. Didn't have jack to take a tire off so is coming back Tuesday with all tools needed to take a tire off and see why things are locked up...any ideas anyone?

[bruceb58]

Corroded wheel cylinders.

[rdrsteve]

It seems to be all 4 brakes on, I would find it had to believe all 4 cylinders would corrode the exact amount and lock up the same time, plus this system has the wash hoses and has been religiously washed after every use.

[Home Cookin']

As far as keeping the trailer axle out of the water . . . seems impossible for many/most boaters. I'm lucky if I can keep the tow vehicle out of the water. It *might* be possible for roller trailers, but bunk trailers need to go all the way under.

That's an important point. roller trailers, even those with short bunks, or break trailers, are set up for "dry axle" use but not so for most bunk, or "float on."
Back in the day, you never saw float-on trailers around salt water--I can't speak to fresh water. Also, not as many people were "daily trailer" boaters, especially boats over 18'. Then the manufacturers realized that bunks were cheaper, and more people were buying trailer boats, so it brought the package cost down for "popular' boats to put them on bunk trailers. They assure everyone they are water-tight, rust proof and saltwater impervious. Nothing is.
Hence the popular trailer becomes a popular topic here due to all the problems, which are avoided with a roller trailer and different technique.

[bruceb58]

It seems to be all 4 brakes on, I would find it had to believe all 4 cylinders would corrode the exact amount and lock up the same time, plus this system has the wash hoses and has been religiously washed after every use.

No amount of flushing can prevent wheel cylinders from corroding. Water gets behind the rubber boot of the wheel cylinder and just sits in there.

Bottom line, you need to pull the drums to see what is going on in there. Could be a lot of reasons.

As fas a float on vs roller, I have had both and both types needed the axles in the water. Of course the roller trailer we had was for a 27' boat.