Testing a stator....7.5 merc

[roonie]

the stator is disconnected from the engine. Is it a matter of testing the two wires for contunuity?

 

[flyingscott]

need Year and serial#

 

[roonie]

1970......2957779

and...also wondering how a guy goes about finding what other years and hp engines will fit for the stator. I know on ebay some sellers have a compatibility list but i dont trust those. thanks

 

[flyingscott]

I would not recommend replacing that stator used because it will have the same problems especially with the wires coming apart. Go to www.cdielectronics.com and look up there trouble shooting guide they may have it. Or you will have to find the manual for it.

 

[gm280]

roonie, what makes you think you have a bad stator in the first place? The best way to test your stator is on the engine. You can do a continuity test from the output wires to verify they are not broken. And then between the wires to ground to verify it isn't shorted to ground as well. But you have to have all the output wires hanging free for the ground test. If you read anything between any of the wires to ground with the output wires hanging free not touching anything, then you have a bad stator. If those tests are good, run the engine and see what the output voltage is. If it is outputting voltage in the correct range per shop manual, then the stator isn't bad. JMHO!

 

[flyingscott]

Yes reinstall it for the test make sure the insulator blocks are put back on. You have a phase- maker you can't do a simple stator test on it. They don't test that stator for output voltage. The phase-maker is kind of a hybrid it has points but no condensers they are built into the stator. That set-up is almost like a bridge between points and CDI ignitions.The oddest thing about them is they use ground as part of the ignition that's why the stators get wrecked so easy. The kill switch actually stops the ignition from going to ground so it backs up all the power into the stator. If the motor is in the water it's fine if it's on muffs and you use the kill switch you have a good chance of wrecking the stator because the motor will not stop as quick on muffs. I have a 1970 200 20 hp that needs a stator for that exact reason had spark until he kept using the kill switch on muffs. When you check for spark disconnect the kill switch.

 

[roonie]

thanks all...yeah i read that about the kill switch/muff problem. I will be running it in a barrel of water so should not have a problem. Picked up a used, but like new running engine (top end only) for parts. I just could not justify paying over $300 +taxes and shipping for a new stator. The boat mechanic i bought it from made sure it ran and it runs well so for $100 i have a few extra parts as well and i needed a handle for my other merc 9.8 which i will take from this used engine. So to me it was win win....lets hope so...lol. Thanks again for all the help. I already know the stator is bad as the wires are literally falling apart all the way to the windings and the top of the stator is blown off. See my previous post and pics of stator here...http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...-5-hp-no-spark

 

[jerryjerry05]

Outboard ignition might have the parts you need cheaper.​Being that old you might need to call them?

 

[Craigbbbbb]

Does your 1970 7.5hp Mercury have a kill switch? I have a 1971 4hp Mercury 3028439 and I don't think mine has a kill switch! I usually have to turn the choke on to kill the engine or let it idle as low as possible until it sputters out! Is this correct that I do not have a kill switch?

 

[roonie]

Does your 1970 7.5hp Mercury have a kill switch? I have a 1971 4hp Mercury 3028439 and I don't think mine has a kill switch! I usually have to turn the choke on to kill the engine or let it idle as low as possible until it sputters out! Is this correct that I do not have a kill switch?

look around....its not too hard to find a kill switch. Seems the 1970 do not but i just picked up a 1971 for parts and it does in fact have a kill switch on the side of the engine

 

[Minnboater]

If the stator and flywheel are still on the engine, connect the positive side of your voltmeter to the green stator wire, and the negative to engine ground. Pull the starter and you should see 500 volts on the voltmeter. I posted recently after rebuilding the ignition system of one of these phase maker 7.5/s. They are nice little outboards, but do take some time to understand. Best of luck.