Rectifier/Regulator

mvanek21

Cadet
Joined
Apr 12, 2024
Messages
14
I'm looking at installing a new rectifier regulator onto my E100TLCSC, it came with an air cooled rectifier and air cooled regulator, both separate units. The standalone regulator seems to be difficult to find, whereas rectifier/regulator units are much more available. My motor has the port for the water cooled unit covered with the lifting eye hooked up there. My question is, should i go with the combo water cooled, or air cooled rectifier/regulator. I've got the 583104 stator on my flywheel, i believe it is the 9/3 amp stator. Which unit is optimal for my motor. Its got T/T and just hoping to find the safest and most reliable way to charge my starter battery while underway.

I should add, is the 10amp rectifier/regulator (CDI 193-4204) the best option as listed for a compatible part?
 
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havoc_squad

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
707
I'm looking at installing a new rectifier regulator onto my E100TLCSC, it came with an air cooled rectifier and air cooled regulator, both separate units. The standalone regulator seems to be difficult to find, whereas rectifier/regulator units are much more available. My motor has the port for the water cooled unit covered with the lifting eye hooked up there. My question is, should i go with the combo water cooled, or air cooled rectifier/regulator. I've got the 583104 stator on my flywheel, i believe it is the 9/3 amp stator. Which unit is optimal for my motor. Its got T/T and just hoping to find the safest and most reliable way to charge my starter battery while underway.

I should add, is the 10amp rectifier/regulator (CDI 193-4204) the best option as listed for a compatible part?

This should have been asked in the Evinrude/Johnson forum and really didn't need another topic created for this.

If the stator is rated for a max of 9 amps output for the charging system, you can go either with the CDI 193-3408 or the Evinrude/Johnson OEM 0585195.

Either one you choose, you must only use regular wet cell conventional marine battery for that charging system. No AGM or Lithium batteries for this outboard.

Pros of CDI 193-3408. No need to pull flywheel, just have to ensure you have proper grounding of the part because a bad ground will burn these units up quickly, so will hooking up the voltage wrong on them. May not last as long as the OEM water cooled unit.

Pros of Evinrude/Johnson OEM. OEM, not aftermarket. Water cooled so less likely to overheat and prematurely fail if cooling system maintained.
Must buy flywheel removal tool and buy the bolts and especially important all the grounding washers called out in the parts diagram. Do NOT try to brute force the flywheel off, let the tool do the work.

Flywheel mating surface must be clean and dry, 100 to 105 ft/lbs using torque wrench to reinstall flywheel nut. Make sure flywheel key is not damaged. You will need a holding fixture to keep the flywheel still when torquing. Do NOT use an impact gun to put the nut ON, removing flywheel nut (off) with impact gun is okay.

If you forget the grounding washers on the OEM rectifier/regulator, the unit WILL fail. Make sure no aviation form a gasket sealant is present where the bolts and washers establish ground. Keep that sealant off the bolts, off the grounding washer, off the surface where the bolt fastens to the rectifier/regulator, and keep it out of the bolt hole in the powerhead.
 
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