Is there a way ??? (Need and expert - Joe Reeves please?)

Is there a way to test the choke solenoid that sits on the side of the motor? Likewise, is there a rebuild kit available or does the whole thing need to be replaced?

Re: Is there a way ??? (Need and expert - Joe Reeves please?)

You can remove it and send 12 V to it. I would check if there are 12 V at the solenoid first.<br /><br />Then if there is and it is not working, the solenoid is cooked. <br /><br />They are available at the dealer. If I recall, I don't think they are objectionably expensive. Other alternative is to choke manually.<br /><br />There is no rebuild kit available that I know of.<br /><br />What year and model is the motor?<br /><br />Joe

Re: Is there a way ??? (Need and expert - Joe Reeves please?)

It's a 1989 150XP (E150STLCEM). The Electrical part of the choke seem to work...<br /><br />Check this link, please...<br /><br /> Topic: 150XP Problem with Warm Restart. <br /><br />So now, last weekend I figured this out...<br />I tried freeze mist on the stator... no fix.<br />Freeze mist on the PowerPack... no fix.<br />Freeze mist on the the regulator... no fix.<br />Freez mist on the thermostats... no fix.<br /><br />With nothing left in the electrical/ignition system that could reasonably cause the warm start problem I became convinced it is NOT electrical.<br /><br />[MAJOR CLUE HERE...]<br />I moved the red primer lever slightly out of it's "auto" position and the problem sort of went away with the exception of a slight hesitation when accelerating under load. I moved the lever further to almost a full choke which resulted in no hesitation from idle but sputtered some as speed/rpms increased. When the lever was returned to it's original position, the problem seemed to have gone away however I still did experience a stall 2 out of 10 or 12 restarts.<br /><br />I have now convinced myself that this is infact a fuel flow problem and wonder if the primer is fouled up some how. There must be a way to verify the vacume/pressure on it.

Re: Is there a way ??? (Need and expert - Joe Reeves please?)

^bump

Re: Is there a way ??? (Need and expert - Joe Reeves please?)

hello<br /> by moving the primer from off to manual you bypassed the carb circuits and injected fuel directly into the intake manifold. that tells me your carbs are dirty. you forced the engine rich. I dont think you have a primer problem. to test pull a primer hose from an intake nipple. pump the primer bulb the activate by turning the key on and pushing the key. if the primer is working you will see a squirt of fuel. all the primer is is an on/off solinoid or you may think of it as an electro-mechanical valve.<br /> good luck and keep posting

Re: Is there a way ??? (Need and expert - Joe Reeves please?)

Sure, but ever since I moved the red primer lever the motor only exhibits the warm restart problem once in a great while where as it used to be problematic every time it was warm started. It seems that I may have moved some crud from within the primer plunger or needle (perhaps now in the carb). Not only that, if this were carb related, wouldn't it make sense to think there would be problems accelerating from idle at times other that the first acceleration after a restart? Please realize I do appreciate your reply and I am only trying to filter/screen the possibilities before money is spent. Isn't it possible that if a carb can get gummed up from bad fuel, age, or whatever, it would be just as possible for some other fuel system component (like a choke primer) to get gummed as well? I found in a repair manual a subtle mention of rebuilding the solonoid (infact an exploded view) but when I called the local dealer I was told no kit was available but had the choice of buying individual parts (gasket, plunger, needle, spring, o-ring, etc.) or a complete assembly for 65.00. I will try the push-button test as Rodbolt suggested and see what happens. Thanks.

Re: Is there a way ??? (Need and expert - Joe Reeves please?)

Before the warm restart,try pumping the primer bulb.It could have a bad valve,and be draing fuel back to the tank,before restart.<br />DHP

Re: Is there a way ??? (Need and expert - Joe Reeves please?)

Did that already - Thanks.

Re: Is there a way ??? (Need and expert - Joe Reeves please?)

Still not convinced this is a carb problem. if it were, why would the problem only show up when the motor is warm?

Re: Is there a way ??? (Need and expert - Joe Reeves please?)

A simple test of the fuel primer solenoid:<br /><br />Have the RED lever in the automatic position.<br /><br />Remove the fuel primer line from the top carburetor. Pump the fuel primer bulb hard. Turn the key to the ON position (engine NOT running), then push it in to activate the solenoid.<br /><br />Fuel should shoot out that fuel primer hose.<br /><br />The stator..... Have you inspected the large black coils to see if they might be melting down, dripping a sticky substance down on the timer base and powerhead area?

Re: Is there a way ??? (Need and expert - Joe Reeves please?)

OK, thanks Joe! So, you say... the stator. Yes there is one or two drops of what looks and feels like dried out automotive undercoating on top of the voltage regulator, but can you please explain how this can be related to what many people believe is a dirty carburetor? I can understand that if this stator stuff drips on to the timer base, the timeing advance of QuickStart can get messed up, especially if the stuff is warm and therefore more tacky. But please remember what i said earlier in this post...<br />---<br />[MAJOR CLUE HERE...]<br />I moved the red primer lever slightly out of it's "auto" position and the problem sort of went away with the exception of a slight hesitation when accelerating under load. I moved the lever further to almost a full choke which resulted in no hesitation from idle but sputtered some as speed/rpms increased. When the lever was returned to it's original position, the problem seemed to have gone away however I still did experience a stall 2 out of 10 or 12 restarts.<br />---<br />I will get the boat out later today, pull the primer lines to the carbs, and see if they squirt when I press the choke<br />\<br />Thanks again!

Re: Is there a way ??? (Need and expert - Joe Reeves please?)

Fuel systems do not come and go, varying on temperture. If there's a problem with the fuel system, the engine will malfunction at any temperture.<br /><br />If the black coils are melting down, it should be obvious, and the sticky substance should be closer to the timer base than the voltage regulator.<br /><br />The stator.... Those two black coils that are located on the back portion of that 35 ampere charging stator are the beginning of the ignition system, which provide approximately 300 AC volts to the powerpack(s).<br /><br />The stator runs very hot and over the years, eventually melts down in that (large black coils) area.<br /><br />Even when melting down, when cold, the stator may provide the proper spark.... jumps a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame. However, when hot, especially after being run awhile and then shut down which allows the heat to gather under the flywheel, those large black coils will fail to provide the power/voltage to energize the powerpack.... hence erratic spark and eventually no spark even when cold.<br /><br />This may not be your only problem but if those coils are actually starting to melt down, it is one of them.

Re: Is there a way ??? (Need and expert - Joe Reeves please?)

Well, here's the scoop...<br />I got the boat out yesterday, ran it about for awhile just to make some observations and I found that the "warm restart" problem doesn't seem to exist any more! That's right, I ran the boat all over the lake stopping and restarting a countless number of times and never once did it stall on acceleration or even bog or hesitate. I am pretty convinced the problem worked itself out by whatever happened two weeks ago when the choke primer lever was moved out from, and back to it's original position. So, no more bogging or stalling, I guess then, no more problems! I looked again very closely to underside of the stator and from what I could see it seemed fairly clean without any sticky crud oozing from it. A second look at the top of the voltage regulator doesn't really reveal anything new either. Infact the one drop of stuff I saw there was actually rather crusty rather than sticky. Perhaps it was something that dripped long ago and has now dried up. I definately will keep an eye on this stuff though. I will say, overall I am certainly glad that I did NOT spend the money on a 3-carb rebuild and instead waited the time for the problem to go away! I know, I know, this could all come back some day and most likely it will but if it's not broke there's nothing to fix. These are the typ of problems I can aford! Thank you Iboats, Joe, Everyone, for makeing that waiting time seem to pass by quickly!

Re: Is there a way ??? (Need and expert - Joe Reeves please?)

If nothing else you have plenty to think about over the winter. And you have plenty of winter up there to think. Glad it's running again.

Re: Is there a way ??? (Need and expert - Joe Reeves please?)

If nothing else you have plenty to think about over the winter. And you have plenty of winter up there to think. Glad it's running again.