'61 Lark 3 40hp no start UPDATE!

I just purchased a 1964 Thompson Sea Mate wooden boat fitted with the 40hp Lark 3. I've replaced the coils, points, condensers, wires, boots and plugs. I've also rebuilt the carb.<br /><br />I cannot get the engine to fire just an occasional backfire. Compression appears ok but I have not tested. The plugs appear to be dry as if no fuel is getting to cylinders. Spark is good on both cylinders. I am trying to get up to speed w 2 strokes (purchased both Seloc and Clymer manuals) and from what I have heard the problem may be with the reed(s). Anyone have any thoughts on this one?<br /><br />Thanks, Jack

Re: '61 Lark 3 40hp no start UPDATE!

You came to the right place Jack. Try spraying a mix into the carb while cranking. What do you get then?

Re: '61 Lark 3 40hp no start UPDATE!

HI Jack, welcome to I boats, it sounds like you have done a lot of things already that should, or could fix the problem. I assume that you put in new coils (not used ones) that the points are set to .020 and that the "d shaped key" was in the key way and stayed there when you put the flywheel on.<br />If so I would check as follows:<br />1. make sure that the plug wire for #1 goes to the top cyl. The wire should have a tag on it saying "top". If neither wire is marked check in your seloc manual and identify which coil is for #1 and follow the wire back to the plug.<br />2. squirt some fuel mixture into the cylinders through the plug holes, re insert the plug and try to start. If it starts and then dies you have a fuel problem.<br />3. It is probably "not" the reeds. <br />4. Let the forum members know how you make out so they can help, the more info the better.

Re: '61 Lark 3 40hp no start UPDATE!

UPDATE:<br /><br />Thanks Dave and Grain! Yes, all parts mentioned above were new. It appears that I did not have as good a spark as I initially thought so I PULLED the flywheel off again (did you hear it POP?)<br /><br />With regard to flywheel magneto ignition systems what do I need to check other than the following:<br />-point gap at .020"<br />-green coil wire, condenser wire and black ignition switch wire all connected to insulated side of points (as I found them)<br /><br />Jack