'72 Evinrude 65HP gearcase removal

Devilfish · #1 September 16th, 2004, 04:54 PM

Ok,

I know this sounds stupid, but How the hell do you remove the lower gearcase unit off this engine?

I want to examine replace the waterpump but can't seem to get the gearcase off.

I have removed the 4 bolts holding the gearcase to the exhaust case. removed the trim plate and removed the bolt under this. I have removed the long bolt underneath in the middle. i can get the gearcase to split about 2mm. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks

Ian

Joe Reeves · #2 September 16th, 2004, 05:04 PM

That's a Hydro Electric shift unit and I assume that you have disconnected the electric shift cable.

That would leave nothing to retain the gearcase. However, if someone prior had the gearcase off, and I think I can safely assume it's been off a few times, there's the possibility that the top O Ring on the driveshaft was not replaced and/or the splines were not greased thoroughly.

This would result in the driveshaft splines being rusted/corroded within the crankshaft splines. If so, that is really a problem. There will be many jumping in here that have had that same problem and hopefully can help you in that area.

Devilfish · #3 September 17th, 2004, 02:43 AM

Thanks Joe,

At least I now know I am not doing anything stupid!

When you say "I assume that you have disconnected the electric shift cable."

I assume you just disconnect the cable from the upper unit? Ther is a grommet / gland where the cable enters the lower unit at the top. it looks to be in pretty solid. what do i do with this?

Thanks

ddaigle · #4 September 17th, 2004, 06:43 AM

The cable has a rubber grommet or thick part in it to hold the wires up and seal water out. It should just pull out, or maybe you can push it down from the top if its really stuck. Also, be sure you attach some string or wire to the cable so you can pull it back up when you reassemble it. This is important because it can be a bear to run the cable back up in there. ddaigle , 71 60hp. hydroelectric, pulled off and apart many times.

Joe Reeves · #5 September 17th, 2004, 06:53 AM

As ddaigle suggests, use a snake wire or cord so that you can re-install the wire easily. Spray some WD-40 on the wire to help it slip through that channel passageway.

Devilfish · #6 September 17th, 2004, 07:41 AM

I think the drive shaft is stuck. Any ideas?

sealyons · #7 September 17th, 2004, 09:36 AM

I had a similar experience with a smaller motor. The bolts came out fine but it would not budge. Several people here recomended a block of wood and a sledge hammer on top of the cavitation plate. It worked like a charm. Three or four moderate swings with a 5lb sledge and it was off. You migt want to put something under the lower unit so it lands on something soft though.

Devilfish · #8 September 17th, 2004, 01:11 PM

Ok,

So basically you knock the hell out of it?

Will give it a go and we wiil see.

Ian

Devilfish · #9 September 17th, 2004, 04:15 PM

Hi,

Well, It finally came off. It looks like it had not been off for about 20 years! (Pics below)

It also look like the lower unit was not watertight. lots of residue etc.

I also found a hole on the edge of the exhaust casing, right at the back. This could let in water I guess.

The drive shaft looks to have rust spots on it as well.

Any ideas or opinions on what should be my next move? I think this needs a lot more than a new impeller.

Thanks

Ian

Solittle · #10 September 17th, 2004, 05:10 PM

Ian - -- Woahhhhhh - Don't go pullin it apart just yet. The residue is normal and actually it looks pretty good. There are no seals in that area and water is supposed to flow in and around. You need to replace the complete water pump (not just the impeller), grease the splines on the top of the driveshaft (but don't put a glob at the very top) and put it back together.

Some rust on the driveshaft is normal and don't worry about the hole at the edge of the casing. In fact when you run the motor on the muffs in the driveway water will flow out from all kinds of places - THIS IS NORMAL.

While you are at it might as well put in new thermostats.

Devilfish · #11 September 18th, 2004, 02:12 AM

Cool!.

I thought I had a disaster on my hands. I think a new water pump whole would be good though. All I have to is try and find one!

Where are the thermostats? I am still waiting for my shop manual to arrive. All I have at the moment is a generic Clymer manual. This can be a bit vauge at times.

This gearcase was VERY difficult to get apart. What can i do to make it easier to go back? Just clean up all th seals etc I guess.

Any thoughts?

Droll · #12 September 18th, 2004, 08:15 AM

Quote:

What can i do to make it easier to go back?

Clean the spline on the driveshaft , apply some grease on the spline + the new O-ring( nothing at the top )

Clean those water tubes .

You might also apply some ( thiiin layer ) grease inside the rubber grommit ( water pump )

I would also be good if you could clean inside the crankshft end , but....hard to do (whithout removing the powerhead ), maybe a thin stick with a ragg on the end ?? .

Devilfish · #13 September 18th, 2004, 09:55 AM

Droll,

This worries me a bit. When i took it out, the drive shaft had both 'O' ring intact and a good grease covering. I don't remember it being splined though.

Will take a pic and post later.

Thanks for the advice.

Ian

Joe Reeves · #14 September 18th, 2004, 10:00 AM

On that model, I believe that you'll find the driveshaft has but four (4) splines.

Devilfish · #15 September 18th, 2004, 10:21 AM

Yes,

That seems more like it.

It still worries me. It was a pain in the *** to get out. I had to drift it out with a length on 3x2 and a sledge hammer! Took about a dozen or so strikes.

I can't really see what was holding it in really. I though the drive shaft might be seized. However it looks ok and had grease on it.

What worries me is getting it back in again, without having to use using a bloody great hammer.

Any advice?

craigvalk · #16 September 20th, 2004, 05:17 PM

Devilfish.. I have worked a lot on the same motor this summer. Make sure you put some marine grease on the end of the driveshaft when you install it. Also, lube the wire with some liquid soap or WD40 and it will probably pull up through the engine easier. Also lube the hole where the wire comes up into the engine compartment.

Make sure you remove the spark plugs, you can rotate the flywheel from the top to line up the driveshaft splines when you plug it in.

You can get some guide tubes for those water lines, these are just inexpensive nylon tubes that plug into the recesses on top of the water pump where the water tubes from the engine plug in. These allow you to get your fingers in to line up those tubes a couple of inches before the lower unit tightens down. Makes the job MUCH easier. It really helps to have a second person holding the unit in place while you thread the wire up through. And make damned sure you route that wire properly, so it don't get wrapped around the driveshaft when you start it.

In all honesty you can get that thing installed in 20 minutes, be patient don't rush and it will go fine.

Craig