[ScottieinNC]

Hi All,New to this BB but looks like lots of good info and experienced folks here.Well, here goes. I have a 73-74 Evinrude 135. (model# 135489-B Ser# J0002015)Has been sitting for a few years, fired it up the other day and ran OK, but is very difficult to get into fwd. or reverse without excessive effort on the top shift lever arm. I have had it disconnected from the shift cable and worked the topside lever back and forth by hand (while turning prop) and I have to physically push hard and it will "snap" into fwd. or reverse. I sprayed penetrating oil onto shift rod top and let sit overnight with no difference. After reading a few posts on this BB about the L/U removal, I went ahead and removed it tonight. The shaft is free all the way to the L/U but binds up in the very bottom somehow. I have taken a picture of where I am now, please go to: 135 Evinrude LU In the picture, the golden color (dichromate plated?) sleeve around the shift rod is free and is not binding. (Is this some kind of assist unit?)I have worked it all by hand and it still requires very excessive force to move the shaft up and down, the sleeve (assist?) does not seem to be interfering at all. BTW - when I do get it into fwd. or rev. the prop and main drive shaft turn very easily, just like I believe it should be, so hopefully gears are all OK.The shift shaft seems to extend down into the housing another 8"-10" and disappear, can't tell what it is supposed to be moving.Do I need to go ahead and remove prop and propshaft to continue? Can anyone tell me what could possibly be binding up?This engine has had a history of saltwater use, but the previous owner did a great job of flushing each time it was used. Could corrosion be the culprit?Any advice is welcomed from you all.Thanks,Scott

[R.Johnson]

The gearcase you are dealing with is shifted with hydraulic assist. That gold sleeve you pointed out in the photo is the hydraulic assist cylinder. The engine can be quite stiff to shift if it is not running. The way I check these unit's is to disconnect the shift cable at the engine, and with the engine running, you can flip the linkage in, and out of forward or reverse very easily if it working properly. Did you drain, and refill with fresh oil before making your first running test? On an engine of this age you may well have to replace the ( O ring, rings) in the oil pump, and cylinder. You are going to need a good service manual for this repair. One thing that makes home repair difficult is their are two snap rings that hold the prop shaft bearing carrier in place. These rings are bear trap spring strong, and need a special snap-ring pliers to remove which is quite exspensive.If you drained the old oil, and it was not to dirty or mixed with water, you may get by filling with fresh oil, and test running again.

[ScottieinNC]

R. Johnson,Thank you for the reply. For the first run of the engine I verified there was oil in the foot, but didn't drain it and re-fill. I just came back from looking closer at the L/U and understand it a little bit better from your decription. I drained the old oil, noticed some murkiness and a little water, refilled with new oil, (There seems to be very little oil that actually goes in?)and turned the driveshaft by hand. I then see oil being pumped through and out of the top of the cylinder where the shaft exits. I hope this is correct and shows the pump is functioning. At this time I do have the L/U off, but am planning on putting it all back together and testing the shifting by hand with motor running without the shift cable being hooked up. Also, after closer inspection of the L/U, I seen where there is a lot of corrosion deep in where the prop shaft bearing carrier assy. is, and the four 7/16" bolts that hold the assy. in will not turn. I stopped short of rounding them off. After L/U is back on the motor and I test, I'll repost the results.Don't want to fight a lost cause here.....