motor decarbing

i've read many post about decarbing so i assume it's got to be done on 2 cycle boat motors. my question is, what type additive ? seems like seafoam is talked about the most and are there any bad things ? and what is the best way to do it.<br />thanks all!!

Re: motor decarbing

Howdy.<br /><br />Check out the articles on decarbing in the Engine FAQ section.<br /><br />Good luck.

Re: motor decarbing

Howdy, BMcgee:<br /><br />Seafoam seems to be the recommended solution. I bought it at my local Advance Auto parts store. I decarbonized my motor this weekend, and for about $7.00, the container of Seafoam I purchased allowed me to do the complete procedure three times. As I've read in dozens of posts on this site, three times is enough to decaronize even the worst build up.<br /><br />If you prefer--although I don't know if it's better or worse--a spray version of Seafoam is available from the same company. That solution is called Deep Creek and it supposedly allows you to treat carbonized pistons through the carburetors. Effectively it supposedly does the same thing. <br /><br />I have never used Deep Creek, though I'm told that it is exactly the same solution as Seafoam--same company too. <br /><br />Hope this helps, but definately check out the article that JB recommennded in his post.<br /><br />Eric

Re: motor decarbing

thanks<br />did you fill up your cylinders and let them soak for awhile ? the post i got say's to mix 16oz. seafoam to 3/4 gallon gas in a separate can. how did you do it?

Re: motor decarbing

There are two general methods of decarbing and it sounds like you might be confusing the two. Call them the spray method and the tank method. Both methods are described in detail in the FAQs and both work well. I'm very inexperienced at this stuff but followed the FAQ directions exactly and was able to do the treatment - I've done both methods. I only say this to say that "anyone can do it, it's an easy DIY".<br /><br />The spray method involves spraying the decarb fluid into the carbeurators while the engine is running. The fluid goes from the carbs. through all the parts of the engine that the fuel normally goes through, and into the cylinders. Some people add to this by removing spark plugs and spraying additional fluid direcly into the cylinders and then rotating the engine to get it right in there. After a "soaking" period, you run the engine to blow off the crud. You need the aerosol version of the fluid for this method.<br /><br />The tank method involves mixing some of the fluid in a small amount of fuel (premix or straight gas, depending on your engine). You then run this mixture through your engine at a certain speed for a certain time. Same effect as above: the fluid goes everywhere the fuel normally goes. After the soaking period, you run the engine to blow off the crud. You need the liquid form of the fluid for this method.<br /><br />The intention of both methods is to get the decarb. fluid into the engine, let it soak to dissolve the carbon, and then run it to blow off the dissolved crud. There is no reason why you couldn't do the tank method and add the step of spraying it directly into the cylinders.<br /><br />The same stuff that is used for this treatment can also be used on a routine basis, mixed with normal fuel, to prevent carbon build up.<br /><br />The directions for all this stuff are in the FAQ and also on the cans of the fluid.<br /><br />The fluid comes in many brands - the engine manufacturers all make a version and a popular "generic" version is labeled Seafoam. There are other generic versions. From what I've read, all of these work essentially the same.