1958 Evinrude 35 HP...Electrical

I was recently given a 1957 35 HP Johnson, the engine was shot. I replaced it with a 1958 35 HP Evinrude...same motor. I had no spark when I turned the engine over so I replaced ALL electrical components (Points, Condensors, Coils, Plug Wires) I adjusted the point gap to 0.020" and still cannot get the plug to spark. I attached a circuit tester to the plug wire and it lit up like a christmas tree. Any suggestions about what to do next? This is my first time working with the electrical system on a motor. I did notice the coils, which are new are a very tight fit, meaning that the magnet on the flywheel rubs on the coils hard. It gets by and I figured they just needed to be "broken in". I am at a loss, if anyone has anysuggestions please let me know.

Re: 1958 Evinrude 35 HP...Electrical

Welcome to Iboats, Briguy!<br /><br />The coils must be carfully aligned with the bosses on the mag plate. Rubbing is not correct - there should actually be an air gap. Thank goodness the engine did not start.<br />What kind of condition was (is) the flywheel key in? <br /><br />It sounds to me like you're operating without a repair manual. Obtain one first - there's some critical things you're missing out on. Like the flywheel nut must be torqued to 105ft/lbs exactly. You can get a manual from Iboats, borrow one from the local library, or order a reprint of the original factory service manual from one of the following places:<br />TheOutboardWizard<br />Mastertech<br />Marine Engine<br />Ken Cook <br /><br />In the mean time, double check and clean your points, and disconnect and isolate the two low voltage wires coming from the mag plate (if present). Those are the kill switch wires. And adjust those ignition coils. Hang on and I'll dig up a picture.<br /><br />Seems like Sony's site is temporarily down. Try clicking here later and see if a picture of the mag plate and coil comes up:<br />Xcuseme's mag plate picture <br /><br />EDIT: Pardon Petrolhead - looks like we're on the same wavelength today though!

Re: 1958 Evinrude 35 HP...Electrical

The magnet should not rub on the coils at all, nor should any part of the flywheel! The coils are adjustable, and should really be installed using a special ring tool that positions them correctly, you may be able to borrow one.<br />Alternatively get a manual, which you should have anyway, and it will tell you how to position them correctly without the special tool.<br />You really need to do this before you go any further with your spark problem.

Re: 1958 Evinrude 35 HP...Electrical

Thanks for the quick response....I guess there's a little more to it than I thought, and you're right I do not have a repair manual. Once I figured out the coils were rubbing I pushed them back as far as possible. Still, they rubbed a little bit, one more than the other. It must have slipped back. Anyway, I'll continue to check for more updates, and I will for sure be getting a repair manual.<br /><br />By the way, I did already remove the kill switch wire. There was only one.

Re: 1958 Evinrude 35 HP...Electrical

<EDIT: Pardon Petrolhead - looks like we're on the same wavelength today though! ><br /><br />Having just done all this myself I thought I could contribute an answer instead of a question for a change!<br />BTW I solved my seal problem but I'll tell you how in another thread.

Re: 1958 Evinrude 35 HP...Electrical

Okay here's the deal........ I fixed the no spark problem. One coil I had bought was bad, probably from hitting the magnet when I turned the engine over. I just put the old one in there and it works great. Both plugs have a lot of spark by just slowly tunring the flywheel by hand. Next..... on to the carb and fuel system. That should be fun.

Re: 1958 Evinrude 35 HP...Electrical

I doubt the coil would have gone bad from being bumped by the magnet. They're not exactly delicate. Could be a DOA coil - check the resistance between the two primary terminals (should be .5 ohms or so) and between one of the primary terminals and the spark plug wire spike (should be 5k ohms or so).<br /><br />A helpful thing to have at this point is a spray or misting bottle loaded with fuel/oil mix. That way you can bypass the entire fuel system and get the engine to start by spraying some down the carb's throat.<br />Has your '58 got a fuel pump? Are you using that or the pressure tank system? Just curious.

Re: 1958 Evinrude 35 HP...Electrical

I could see a difference in the bad coil and the one that was working. Is it common that they come DOA? Do retailers typically replace or refund in that situation?<br /><br />This motor does not have a fuel pump. I will be using the pressure tank system.

Re: 1958 Evinrude 35 HP...Electrical

If the coil's dead, that would be a new one on me. But mabey you're the unlucky one. Usually parts, and ignition parts in particulair, are not returnable. But it's worth giving them a call about it since one obviously works for you and the other doesn't.<br /><br />By the way, Xcusme's picture is back up. If you're still getting the error message, hit your reload button.<br />Surface 'A' must be carefully aligned with Surface 'B'. Or make a ring with an ID of 4.472" in your machine shop.

Re: 1958 Evinrude 35 HP...Electrical

This weekend I was able to get the motor running by spraying gas into the throttle body. It only ran about 3 seconds tops, but it ran and sounded great. I just need to get the gas lines hooked up and the carb adjusted.......