I have the manual, but would like to know if the bering is "pressed on" the crank shaft???(upper).... or do I have to just split thr cese to intsall?....thanks,.......it's got a death rattel..............
Hi CrappieNo the bearing is not pressed on the crank. Yes you will have to split the case to replace it. This is a good thing. Use less you have conclusive evidence that this bearing is bad, I rather doubt it is causing the death rattle.
I've just been through this with my old Johnson, which I believe is similar enough to your engine that you have to split the case to change the bearing. The seal can be replaced without splitting the case but the bearing can't. Are you absolutely certain it needs doing though, is the flywheel on tight? I was told by the "experts" that my bearing was shot and it wasn't, I still don't know if they just got it wrong or if they were after my money!In fact I double checked mine with a simple tool, an 18" length of flat metal bar with a hole drilled one end to fit the crankshaft, bolt it on on top of the flywheel and check for movement. I had a few thou movement at the end of the bar, which translates to less than one thou at the bearing, so mine is staying where it is!
no, the seal seems to be fine,....I think,....this ONLY makes noise under load at higher rpms???....not a steady noise??...and not at lower rpms???......I did have the fly wheel off last year, to check the key,......but this started this year???????.......the motor runs great!!!.....but am not comfortable with this noise......afread it'll come apart when I've got my grandson with me..........I can hear play in the fly wheel back n forth.....
my 70 hp 1974 it had a nois that wored me. it had a rattle in it . with a stethescope i could hear a nois in the top cylinder . when i took it apart the cinter rod berring was about to come out and the top cylinder was gaulded . a few gaskets and a weakin would clear thjat up . you will know and might save the block . and being stranded on the water . i have a 79 55 to on a bumble bee bass boat it runs great . papasage
I HAVE A 1979,35HP,JOHNSON,ELECTRIC START,CD-2 IGNITION SYSTEM,THAT HAD THE SAME RATTLING OR CLANGING NOISE AT HIGH SPEED THROTTLE.THERE IS A RING UNDER YOUR ARMATURE PLATE CALLED A DELPHIN RING WHICH HAS BEEN UPDATED.THIS IS LOCATED UNDER YOUR FLYWHEEL ALONG WITH YOUR STATOR,ARMATURE PLATE,DELPHIN RING AND CRANK.AS YOU ACCELERATE THERE IS TO MUCH PLAY IN YOUR DELPHIN RING(WORN OUT-HAVE BEEN UPDATED)WHICH ALLOWS YOUR STATOR MAGNETS TO MOVE AROUND AND GROUND OUT ON CRANK CAUSING ARCING AND ACCELERATION LOST AND THE NOISE YOU ARE HEARING.JOHNSON REALIZED IT HAD A PROBLEM AND REPLACED THIS RING WITH A UPDATE THAT LOOKS NOTHING LIKE THE ORIGINAL.IM NO EXPERT BY FAR,BUT IT SOUNDS JUST LIKE MY PROBLEM AND IT WAS MY DELPHIN RING.THE NEW UPDATED RING COST ME $75.00 IN CALIFORNIA WHERE EVERTHING IS INFLATED ESPECIALLY GAS AND BOAT MOTOR MECHANICS.GOOD LUCK THE STURGEON GENERAL.
I assume that you torqued the flywheel nut to exactly 105 foot pounds. If not, do so.Remove the s/plugs, By had, slowly turn the flywheel in a normal running rotation (clockwise) while lightly holding a screwdriver of some tool of your choosing on top of the piston.Tuen the flywheel until the piston hits top dead center and drops down from top dead center one or two inches. Now, hold the flywheel tightly and press on that tool to see if you can move the piston down any at all without moving the flywheel/crankshaft.If you can move any of the pistons down as stated above, that is where the problem is. Let us know what you find.