Re: 1969 johnson outboard motor wont go into neutral or reverse
Perhaps this previous post will clear things up a bit:<br /><br />If you turn on the ignition key, go back to the wiring and find the two wires that go down "under"/"below" the block. There is a rubber cover that protects the "knife" connector for each wire junction. Just expose the bare connection but don't disconnect the leads. Don't let them touch ANYTHING. With a voltmeter or 12 volt test light, you should have no voltage at either lead. (the lower unit is spring loaded into forward). That's with the control box in forward, If you put the control box into neutral, you should have roughly 12 volts on the green wire only. Once the engine cranks/starts, the activated solenoid will divert oil pressure generated in the oil pump in the gearcase. This will move the spring loaded plunger aft and into neutral. When you move the control box into reverse, both wires are "hot" and the other solenoid also diverts oil pressure and moves the plunger further aft and the clutch into reverse. You must only use OMC Premium Blend oil in this gearcase. Just let it drain and refill with fresh. <br />Now, there is a resistance reading for each solenoid if you want to check. Remove each knife connect and you should have 4.5 to 6 ohms for each solenoid. If you don't have the voltages at the green and blue wires, you have a wiring problem back up to the control box. If you do have the voltages, then you have internal problems.... You can also take a seperate 12 jumper(don't let it touch anything) and activate each wire (green for neutral and green AND blue for reverse as you crank or run the motor. Oh, yea!! Don't let it touch ground!!! BTW, the volt checks with the "key on" checks will not physically put the prop into neutral or reverse no, oil pressure.!!!! You are just checking for proper voltages. Hope this helps