[Ken Abbott]

What a great forum. The internet is truly a wonderful things when used in this way.I am a rookie (1st time, experts have done it at least two times) replacing a water pump on a 115 Evinrude, 1978. I have followed all the steps in the instruction manaul. My problem is that the gearcase will not drop more then 1" when everything is disconnected. I can see that the shift linkage is still connected somehow as the linkage in the head moves when I wiggle the lower end. I have removed the keeper pin as requested but still believe somthing else needs to be disconnected, is this correct. The unit is in reverse. I have lightly tapped on the lower end trying to dislodge whatever might be sticking but to no avail. Don't want to damage the linkage if it is truly still attached somewhere in the upper end.Any suggestions as to what I might be missing. Thanks again for any help. What a great forum.Ken

[ezeke]

Am I understanding that you have removed the clevis (shift rod) screw beneath the leaf manifold?

[Ken Abbott]

No, refering to the shift linkage in the upper end, I haven't removed any screw, or any lever arm, or anything other then the cotter pin that attaches to the shift lever. There is no doubt I have to remove something, but what I don't know. The instruction manual is vague in this area.

[ezeke]

The shift rod comes directly up to just under the manifold behind the carbs. If you look from the starboard side, you will see a slotted screw near the bottom and under the manifold. That screw must be removed to detach the shift rod. If you follow the shift linkage, you can see how the arm raises and lowers the shift rod.

[steve01864]

Hey Ken, I running into the same thing, on a 120 evinrude. Let me if u figure it out.

[ob]

Ken ,get your flashlight, and look in the area under the lower carbs.You will see that the shift arm connects to the shift rod with a pin bolt.Either 3/8 or 7/16 hex.This bolt will have to be removed to drop your lower unit.A little bending and some choice words along with a suitable tool should get it.Good luck.

[GatorMike]

While on this subject can someone fill me in on the best way to get this screw back in? Everytime I replace my water pump impeller the job takes 1hr and then 3hrs to replace that screw. I'm sure these guys would like to know too.

[ezeke]

The best way is to remove the carbs.

[Ken Abbott]

After two months of putting the darn thing up, my son came down for the holidays and we revisited the "Remove the lower end" to replace the water pump. In two seconds, he saw what Ezeke had been saying all along. One of those times when I was looking to close at the problem and couldn't see the trees through the forest. We had the lower end off in 5 minutes, replaced the pump in no time and had the unit back on. Took about 5 minutes to actually align the shift rod and secure it. After reviewing the reply's, I have to say that removing the carburators would be a little to aggresive and not be necessary, it might make it easier to align things but then all those spare parts you have left over would give you heartburn. Again, great forum, thanks alot for all your help on this. Oh yah, the water pump that we replaced was in perfect condition, the tell tail was plugged. But I needed to look into it as I had the boat 5 years with no water pump maintenance. One more thing, the instruction manuels for these boats stink.

[Solittle]

Ken - I agree a big bunch on the aftermarket shop manuals but the OMC shop and parts manuals are great and a must in my book if you don't have a big bucket of experience working on these motors. The OMC shop manuals are far better than any of the factory automotive shop manuals. The aftermarket manuals are better than nothing but they try to be all things for all motors which results in them being not very good for any.