Can anyone give me some hints on how to replace the drive shaft spring on a 57' 5.5hp Evinrude?I received the motor for free knowing it did not have spark and needed a waterpump. I finally fired her up tuned the carb and she ran beautifully . Performed a lower unit lube check after running for an hour and found tbl spoon of water in the new lube. Pulled the lower unit apart to replace the seals and found the upper drive shaft bearing/seal housing badly marred from the driveshaft coupler. After more investigation discoved the spring was broken inside the coupler. The sping is less than $10, the only problem is how does one replace it? Help
Is that spring part of the shock absorber in the lower unit or am I totally out to lunch? I think Joe Reeves is thinking of the spring that holds the seal against the bottom crankshaft bearing (at the top of the driveshaft).
The model is 5514 and S/N 09070.By just looking at it the spring is held in place from its own tension. I have considered heating the coupler hoping it would expand sufficiently or attempting to drill out a majority of the spring thickness and break it off in pieces to remove.I am still looking for the "tried and true" method.
Ok, went to p/u new spring and they ordered the upper spring (oops). We looked at the microfiche and determined it is a whole pinion drive assy (shaft, coupler, spring) and guess what.......It's not available....obsolete...no replacements.Guess I'll be checking with TwinCity Outboard for a used one.Has anyone bypassed the coupler or modified it with success???????
Iv'e read on other post that there is a guy that welds them togather, im sure that will work but probly not to good for berrings. If i cant find one I will weld mine at least I'll be on the water. Better check the lower impeller housing make sue it's not cracked, mine is severly daMAGED. GOOD LUCK.
The impeller housing was the first thing I encountered while trying to find the actual problem. I did eventually go to Twin City Outboard and picked up a used coupler. If I remember correctly he charged me $30 for it and $15 for the (impeller base/driveshaft bearing housing) so for $45 I had new/used parts in excellent condition. While I was there also purchased new seals for the lower unit, figured while its torn down, do it right. Spoke with one of the brothers that owns the parts mecca and he stated that they could replace a couple a week and not run out of stock for many years.I have finally gotten back to reassembling the lower unit but would like to make sure I'm putting the parts in the correct location. Do you know what parts go where on the prop shaft? Is it (from prop) washer, gear, clutch dog, gear, bearing?Have manual but it covers too many years to be specific.Thanks
i took this assembly apart and it only goes back together one way. The big berring goes to the front farthest from the prop, then gear, then clutch dog, next gear, another bearing housing then the seal remember that the shift tab goes under this assembly and has a pin that goes thru it. if i can figure out how to post a pic i will . well i guess i need a home page to post a pic which i dont have if. Shoot me your e-mail and i will send you a pic of how it goes back togather.
Sorry it's been a long day and my spelling is suffering for it. Did i hear you right Tricity has oodles of these parts? That would be great considering i need to take out a loan to buy them new. by the way how much did the seals cost? If you are interested in the pic drop me an e-mail i'll gladly send it to you. by the way do you have any exploded views of the lower unit i need to see how the drive shaft rassembles under the motor.
The big berring goes to the front farthest from the prop, then gear, then clutch dog, next gear, another bearing housing then the seal remember that the shift tab goes under this assembly and has a pin that goes thru it.
Mine has a spacer washer on the assy, wanted to make sure where it goes (front or rear gear) and to make sure I did not need 2.
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Did i hear you right Tricity has oodles of these parts? That would be great considering i need to take out a loan to buy them new. by the way how much did the seals cost?
Yup, thats what he lead me to believe, said he has a trailer full of motors that have not been touched yet. Dont know if they are all 5.5's but his mannerism's implied he had no worries about running out of parts.
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by the way how much did the seals cost?
Think I had to give around 35 for all the seals including the carbon ring, spring cup (for carbon ring spring (top of driveshaft), and cork seal for bottom of crankshaft.So far the worst seal to replace is the shift shaft seal. I used two heavy duty spring hooks that I modified to fit and worked for .5 hr to get it out. Some guys have cut threads into the shiftshaft bushing inserted bolt and drove out upper part of bushing. Do a search for "shift shaft seal" and you should be able to find the instructions.
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I had a 1959 5 1/2 Johnson, and aside from the "de-coupleable driveshaft" it was the identical same engine. A little harder to work on mine, (the driveshaft was unbroken from powerhead to pinion gear), but it avoided the problem you're having. I guessing OMC found it a troublesome approach with experience, and eliminated it from the design
Hmmmmm, I wonder if a drive shaft from a 59' would fit and get rid of the spring assy altogether? Wilbur if you call TCO might be worth asking, let me know what you find. I'll drop you a e-mail so you can send the pics. I gotta get a digital camera.Thanks for the reply's.
5.5 Evinrude Drive Shaft Spring Replacement
. Performed a lower unit lube check after running for an hour and found tbl spoon of water in the new lube. Pulled the lower unit apart to replace the seals and found the upper drive shaft bearing/seal housing badly marred from the driveshaft coupler. After more investigation discoved the spring was broken inside the coupler. The sping is less than $10, the only problem is how does one replace it? Help 
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