No Spark '59 Johnson 50hp

I recently got a boat and motor from a friend, and it has no spark. He never even looked to see why, it sat for 4 years with out being run and has a lot of corrosion. Its a '59 Johnson 50hp V4SL-11B, elecrtic start magnito ignition. I got a Seloc repair manual and it doesnt have a wiring schematic for that year, all it shows is a genaric diagram. I've already reset the points, but the manual doesn't describe how to test the coil it just says to have it tested at a shop. If the points,plugs,wires,cap and rotor are good and the kill switch is disabled then all that is left is the coil right? Unless there is a broken wire. Or am I looking at this all wrong?

Re: No Spark '59 Johnson 50hp

If you have tested all that you mention (plugs, wires, kill-switch, points, condenser), then you've got the coil and the magnets themselves left.<br /><br />The coils are usually tested by a machine that stimulates them with voltage pulses that simulate normal magneto operation. The only thing you could easily test yourself would be the resistance of the coil windings, but that won't neccesarily rule out the coil. <br /><br />As I mentioned, sometimes the magnets in the mageneto become weak and it will not spark anymore. If that turned out to be the case, you could look into constructing a magnet charger and remagnetizing them. Basically it's just a powerful electromagnet you apply to the iron stacks in the magneto, and then tap the stacks with a light hammer.

Re: No Spark '59 Johnson 50hp

BBB.... Remove the magneto distributor cap and connect some kind of spark tester directly to the coil. Spin the magneto wheel in the proper direction (clockwise). If you now have spark, in all probability the rotor is shorting out to the shaft it sits upon. Replace the rotor.<br /><br />If you still have no spark, the problem is usually a failed coil. The continuity that Rick speaks of.... with the coil wires removed so as to avoid any possible feedback, using a ohm meter set to high ohms, connect one meter lead to the main coil terminal. Touch the other two wires, one at a time, with the other meter lead. There should be continuity at both wires.<br /><br />For what it's worth, if you have a problem finding a coil etc. I still have a few of those magneto items left in my remaining stock. ReevesJ32@aol.com

Re: No Spark '59 Johnson 50hp

Ok on the field testing of the coil, I have the same resistance on both the positive and negative sides checking through where the cap sits (main). I did have to pull the coil out against the magnets, when I spin the shaft the magnets pull it to a stop in the same places each time. Can the magnets still be too weak? How and what could I make a magnet charger out of? What do you mean by iron stacks? Where do I apply voltage to? <br /> Ok now to test the magneto could I remove the cap hook up a test light to the main teminal on the coil,ground the other side and spin it with a impact wrench, to simmulate a running motor? Does it need power from somewhere, or just a ground for a kill switch? And my condensor HAS resistance is this correct?

Re: No Spark '59 Johnson 50hp

Your condenser should not have a measurable resistance except infinity... Did you mean your coil?? <br /><br />It sounds like your magnets should be strong enough to create a spark. I like Joe's idea. If you don't have a tester, you can attach one end of a wire to the coil's high tension pad and secure the other end about 1/4" from the magneto case. A good spin by hand in the correct direction should create a visible arc from the wire to the magneto case.

Re: No Spark '59 Johnson 50hp

Ok I must have a really touchy ohm meter, if I hold the condesor in my hands with the leads on it I have resistence, If I put alligator clips on it ground to the body and positive to the wire I get "0.L" which is out of range, I checked a new condensor for a car I had laying around and it had the same reading. Now I should be able to pick up a spark testor from a parts store, set it to the proper spark gap, clip one side to the case and the other side to the main side of the magneto and it should have spark, right? And if it does then its a bad rotor or a cap right? About setting the points, the book said that the best way is to use the marks on the distributor but cut the cover off and old one and use an ohm meter. If i just do it with a gap gauge it should still start though right? Does anyone know where I can get a flushing adaptor for this kind of engine? the intake is right above the prop. My book shows one, but the dealerships just look at me funny.

Re: No Spark '59 Johnson 50hp

Ok, I got spark at the coil. I connected a jumper wire from the main terminal on the coil to a ignition spark tester, and it will jump a .060th gap. I had to replace the wire from the condeser, cleaned everything I could find (connections and terimals in the cap) I have coninuity through the terminals and through the rotor but no spark comin out of the cap. I also had to make a spacer between the points cover and the points cam(out of a piece of plastic), I think something was grounding out. Any ideas why there is no spark out of the cap? I don't want to replace the cap and rotor if thats not the problem since the cap is $130 and the rotor kit is $40, but if i have to i guess I will, any suggestions would be appreciated.

Re: No Spark '59 Johnson 50hp

Just a comment (no offense intended), since you just were given the engine.<br /><br />That engine was famous for having possibly the worst gas-consumption-to-horsepower ratio of any outboard ever built. <br /><br />If you love it, fine; otherwise, you may wish you were investing in another model....

Re: No Spark '59 Johnson 50hp

If you have spark directly from the coil terminal that will jump 1/4", that's fine. There should be a spring and brush in the cap that makes contact with the rotor. If that spring and brush exists, and you have no spark at the cap (plug terminals), I would assume you have either the wrong rotor installed or a faulty rotor. I have a few left in stock and they don't cost $40.00. Who gave you a price like that? ReevesJ32@aol.com

Re: No Spark '59 Johnson 50hp

I'm not surprised it would jump 0.06", but like Joe said will it jump 0.25" ?

Re: No Spark '59 Johnson 50hp

Ok I replaced the brush and spring still nothing. The most I could get it to jump was .14 gap. I bend the ground on the spark plug so far that it just jump to the side of the plug. How is it possible for it to jump 1/4 inch, even a car ignition doesn't have that kind of power and they have twice the voltage. I guess I'll just bite the bullet and get a new cap and rotor and be done with it. Thanks for all the help guys. Anyone know where I can get a cap and rotor at a good price?

Re: No Spark '59 Johnson 50hp

1/4" is about the diameter of a pencil... That's really not that much! Automotive ignitions can and do jump more than that (No, not in normal use, but they will if you let 'em!)... Even non-CDI.<br /><br />Keep in mind that your spark has to jump the gap from the rotor to a post and then the gap across the plug. What does that add up to?<br /><br />Forget the plug, just put a wire on the coil's output and tape it to a plastic object holding it away from the magneto case... that should allow you to measure a gap farther than the plug case to center electrode.<br /><br />In any case, it sounds like you have a strong spark. It probably is the cap or rotor =-)

Re: No Spark '59 Johnson 50hp

The Rotor is SHOT. I did what Joe suggested and placed a wire on the coil main and held it just below the rotor. Sure enough it justed to the rotor, so the rotor was grounding out through the main shaft. The spark I do have is Bright Blue and is shocking, lol. Even with the insulated pliers I was still a little bit of the ground.