Looking for old Sea King info

Please excuse my newbie-ness.<br /><br />I just bought an old Sea King by Montgomery Ward outboard. Anybody know what it is?<br /><br /> Model # GG9023A<br /> Serial # 55X604419<br /><br />I'm guessing by the "55" that it's a 1955. I was told by the seller it's 35HP.<br /><br />It turns over nicely, but then just sputters for 10 seconds and dies. The seller had it running fast for a few minutes, but I think the fuel adjustment knobs got tweaked by my son since then. Even the seller couldn't get it to idle though; it just dies at low speeds. I should probably make some fresh fuel for it. Any ratio suggesions? <br /><br />I was told that the motor has not been run for more than a few minutes in the last several years. Should I check for lube levels or anything?<br /><br />I've also been having a hard time finding any info on this motor online. Is it just that most of them are long gone by now, or perhaps it can be indentified with another manufacturer brand?<br /><br />Do you think a service manual might exist for this motor?<br /><br />Thanks for any help!

Re: Looking for old Sea King info

Tim:<br /><br />The "GG" in the model number tells you that the motor was manufactured by Gail (Mont. Ward had a bunch of different companies make the motors for them). Most of the Gail/MW motors I have seen had a number BEFORE the GG that was the year backwards (like 74 for a 1947 motor). Sorry I can't help more than that.<br /><br />You definitely need fresh fuel and all fresh lube for this baby if you plan on it running decently and/or for any extended time.<br /><br />Also, good luck if you need any parts. They are going to be a bit hard to find unless you have a HUGE dealer or antique motor mechanic near you.<br /><br />Good Luck!

Re: Looking for old Sea King info

just hit the wrong key and lost my whole post!!!<br /> Your motor is a 56 25 hp. Built by the Gale devision of OMC.It shares many parts with similar E/J motors.<br /> NAPA auto parts has parts to fit under E/J applications. bring your old parts to compare.<br /> Go through the fuel system from tank to carb<br />with attention to cleaning.Change the lower unit lube and the impeller.you can get a manual at the bottom of the page, NAPA, amazom.com or even<br />the library.Mix adj screws.. turn out 3/4 turn from gently bottomed then adjust warm at appropriate speed to best. <br />Fuel mix 24:1 tcw3 rated oil.<br />Points set .020.plugs J6C @ .030.<br /> Good luck

Re: Looking for old Sea King info

Awesome. Thanks for the info!

Re: Looking for old Sea King info

you can learn more about your sea kng and other ancient iron at: www.aomci.org

Re: Looking for old Sea King info

So, do you think I'll be able to find a carb kit for this motor?<br /><br />I've contacted the local repair shops and they're booked for weeks, plus they didn't seem terribly enthused to work on this motor <br /><br />Thanks for adjustment tip. I got it running today with some fresh 24:1 fuel, but only at full throttle. If I pull back on the throttle, it just poops out.

Re: Looking for old Sea King info

Hi, Tim.<br /><br />Just as most parts are interchangable with JohnnyRude parts, a Manual for the '56 Johnson and/or Evinrude 25s will cover almost anything you want to do, including overhauling your carb, which I think you need to do.<br /><br />With the manual (carefully read) and a few hand tools you can do it yourself.<br /><br />Good luck.

Re: Looking for old Sea King info

Hi Tim<br />Yes your going to find that the pro's at the shop will not want to work on your gem. Not because it's a bad motor or anything, because it is outdated. One hour of shop time is worth more than your motor (money-wise). They don't want to end up having to eat an old motor. They don't taste very good. So your best bet is to buy an after market manual and make your own repairs. I imagine the labor rate at your shop is about the same as it is at my shop (free). The problem your having with the motor not wanting to idle is probably do to crud blocking up the low-speed circut in the carb. I know this all sound highly technical. With a manual should be able to sort it out fairly quick. Any manual covering OMC outboards back to 1956 will do you just fine. You may be able to find a copy at the library. The good news is these motor are fairly basic and stright forward. If you have the will, I think you'll great.

Re: Looking for old Sea King info

Sooooo, should I get an OMC manual or a J/E manual? (or maybe it doesn'tt really matter)<br /><br />If I can find a flywheel remover somewhere, I'll replace the points.<br /><br />Still looking for carb kit.<br /><br />Again, thanks for the help here

Re: Looking for old Sea King info

Hi Tim<br />Yes a Clymer manual like the ones at the bottom of the page covering evinrude and johmson will do. For parts you can find most anywhere. order from Napa auto store. In your case I would try Seaway marine in Seattle Wa. They will be able to help you.

Re: Looking for old Sea King info

That's spelled "Gales". Correct on the Johnson/Evinrude relation, coils and most other items the same. Sounds like the carb idle passage is plugged or the small cork "o" ring seals in the needle jets are allowing air to pass by. After adjusting,tighten the 7/16 needle keeper (not too tight) just enought to where the needle is a bit harder to turn. I have a multitude of old/antique parts I am trying to "quit" the repair business......

Re: Looking for old Sea King info

> Seaway marine in Seattle Wa<br /><br />I just called them and they had a few carb parts which I ordered. Thanks for the tip.

Re: Looking for old Sea King info

So I removed the lower unit, and everything looks "clean". The impeller and it's cover look like they just came out of the shrink wrap. The impeller blades are very flexible. I've ordered a replacement impeller though, so I'll put that in tomorrow.<br /><br />There don't seem to be any gaskets between parts in the lower unit.<br /><br />Oh no! I just realized I don't remember which direction the impeller goes? Looking down at it, does it push the water clockwise or counter-clockwise?<br /><br />I've drained the yellow goo out of the "Hypoid Oil Fill" port and oil drain plug. Is that the lower unit lube, and if so, how do I know how much to put back, and what's the best procedure?<br /><br />Do I need to lube anywhere else in the lower unit?<br /><br />(This forum rocks!)<br /><br />(Hmmmmm. Maybe "rocks" isn't the best compliment for a marine application....)

Re: Looking for old Sea King info

Refill lower unit with outboard gear oil.<br />Refill through the drain hole till it comes out the vent hole.I usually use 2 12 oz.tubes on my 50 with some left over.Dont remove the Phillips head screw. It holds the shift fork and is difficult to reinstall without disassembly.When installing the impeller simply rotate the driveshaft in the proper direction and allow the impeller to take on a natural flex.No other lube in lower unit<br /> You may want to check the oil after some use to<br />see if it is milkly(would indicate water and a need for new seals) If not too bad some just change the oil more often.<br /> Pretty sure NAPA has a carb kit to fit. Their<br />number: 18-7024 needle and seat 18-7093 These are<br />listed for 54,55 25 hp and56 30hp.I dont see<br /> 56 25 hp but Ill bet it is very similar.<br />Needle and seat fit a bunch of motors up to 135 hp.

Re: Looking for old Sea King info

> Dont remove the Phillips head screw. <br /> > It holds the shift fork and is difficult <br /> > to reinstall without disassembly.<br /><br />I had to remove it in order to take apart the assembly around the gears. It needed a new gasket there. <br /><br />After reassembly (of the prop area) the screw went back in its hole properly, and the prop turns the shaft properly, but I cannot shift with my bare hands on the linkage rod. Should I be able to?<br /><br />Got a shop manual today

Re: Looking for old Sea King info

You may have to rotate the drive shaft as you shift.It has been many years since I did a gearcase. But if the screw is not inserted into the fork it wont shift.Sometimes if you are lucky<br /> and dont disturb things you can get the screw back into the fork. and I guess some have been able to line things with a small punch and get the screw in.

Re: Looking for old Sea King info

> Refill lower unit with outboard gear oil.<br /> > Refill through the drain hole till it <br /> > comes out the vent hole.<br /><br />Refill through the drain? At the base of the unit?<br /><br />There's a "Hypoid Oil" fill hole. Shouldn't I add the oil there? And should I just add it till it won't take any more?

Re: Looking for old Sea King info

Hi Tim<br />Fill gear case from the bottom (drain hole). Fill until oil spews from the vent hole (top). When full install vent (top) plug first. This will hold vacuume on the gear case enough to get the bottom plug installed. Once you get the hang of this procedure, you will be able to get the job done and hardly spill a drop. If you try to fill the unit the way you think ( the way that seems to make sence) you will end up with half air, half oil.

Re: Looking for old Sea King info

Well... I rebuilt the carb, put in new points, condensors and coils, new plugs, fresh fuel, new lube in the lower unit, cleaned everything up nicely, and primed it with fuel, but the bugger won't run.<br /><br />Upon engaging the starter, it sounds about how it did before; very rough and sputtery. After I messed with the fuel controls for a while, it caught and coughed and I thought it might start purring, but it just died. The motor will not turn without the starter engaged. <br /><br />Twice, after a good 30 seconds starter action, it started a high pitched wizzing sound and then stopped turning over. Hope I didn't break my starter.<br /><br />There's a little bit of fuel leaking through (what I think is) the intake manifold. Maybe I flooded it?<br /><br />Should I be trying to start it with the choke on or off?<br /><br />- - - - - - - - - - <br />Update:<br /><br />Got it runing, but it still doesn't like to idle. I figured I'd flooded the carb, so I waited, and then started without the choke, full (neutral) throttle, and she started.<br /><br />I can make it run more smoothly by adjusting the mixture knobs. The low idle knob seems to be most effective.<br /><br />The throttle slowly slows down by itself - the assemble actually moves - and I hope that's not caused by the flywheel rubbing the coils.<br /><br />I think I need to take a break from this project for a day or two.

Re: Looking for old Sea King info

Hi Tim <br />A bit of a break to clear out sounds like a good idea. The good news is you got it running. Now it's just a matter of some fine tuning. Take a break, Read a little more in your manual when your relaxed. When your ready to go again we will be here to try and help.