[downjigger]

I removed the lower unit on my 72 Evinrude to check solenoid wires. I found a bare wire that apparently shorted things out. If I apply 12v power in the proper sequences will it shift while turning the the drive shaft by hand?Also, what should the ohmmeter be reading when I test these leads to ground. I'm getting a closed circuit both on green and blue. I also get a closed circuit when I test both leads together.Another interesting note: While researching availablity of shift selector( 275.00 at Stone's is too much!) I discovered that the pushbutton switch is made by GE and is shown on their website-its used as a switch for appliances. This explains why so many failures with these switches, they were not designed for this application and the blade and contact weaken causing all kinds of problems. I haven't been able to buy one yet but will let anyone interested know if I make out okay.And feedback is appreciated

[OBJ]

Paul....motor has to be running for it to shift. There is a oil pump in the lower unit that actually does the shifting. In order for the pump to work, the engine has to be running.Measuring the solenoids, each solenoid should read about 5ohms (take or give) when measured to ground. The solenoids are read separately. This ohms reading can vary with the solenoids still installed in the lower unit. Us a low ohms scale when measuring.

[downjigger]

Thanks OBJ, I have the solenoids out ot the LU and I am still reading a closed circuit or continuity. Doesn't seem to make sense to me that both solenoids would be doing this. I am wondering if my ohmmeter is accurate. Things were working fine a few weeks ago and suddenly everything quit and I got to paddle back in. Power pack had failed, water in lower cyclinder, and no shifting. I have repaired all and found causes for each item but while testing solenoids I found a short. Took LU off and sure enough blue lead was pinched and frayed (done by me when putting in a new water pump). I need to be sure about these solenoids before I reinstall.Can't beat this forum for help.Thanks Again

[Joe Reeves]

DownJigger.... When the lower unit is off of the engine, the units shifting action may be checked as follows.Have someone assisting you. Use the proper OMC spline tool to grab the top driveshaft splines. With a hacksaw, cut off the female portion of a proper size (1/2") socket drive extension.Insert the male end of that socket drive extension of into the top of the OMC spline tool, attaching a electric drill (1/2" Chuck) to the end you cut off.Operate the electric drill in a clockwise direction.

[downjigger]

Thanks Joe- I'm sitting here thinking about doing something just like that. I have the lower unit in a vise right beside my drill press.By the way, I recall earlier this year you mentioned that you might have a set of solemoids in stock for electric shift. Mine is a 1972 65 hp Evinrude. Not sure if you were talking same motor, but I may need these.

[Joe Reeves]

Downjigger.... The solenoid set I have is actually for the V/4 units. However, the only difference is the cap that is held on with four bolts and the shift wire. The solenoids and related parts are identical.

[td95ma]

I too lost the shifting in my lower unit, but I had a blown 0 Ohm green solenoid. You should have a closed circuit with the solenoids, as long as the read 5 - 6 ohms you should be alright. My problem I discovered my Rectifier had shorted out and that was sending to much voltage to my system, anyone real familiar with these electrical systems? I have a new rectifier, but the clipper circuit assembly has a brown burn mark on it, any idea how to test it? 4 wires on it yellow yellow/grey purple and ground. Someone said I can remove it, but I would have to move a wire? Is this possible? The two manuals I have show the clipper circuit but dont tell you anything about it. I have been searching like crazy for an answer please refer me to anyone wwho might knowT

[td95ma]

Outboard Jim,I know you have told me i can remove the clipper circuit, but my only concern is I was told I have to move the red power wire from screw 7 to screw 9, or maybe it was 9 to 7 I forget anyway....is this true? My original problem was I kept frying solenoids, found too much voltage in the system replaced rectifier, saw burn hole in clipper, the clipper replacement costs 100 bucks so if i dont need it why buy it.....how do i test the clipper? what does it do? ON a side note anyone have any tips on reinstalling alower unit to line up the water pump lines? I have those plastic sleeves but they dont fit on the rubber gaskets...any tips, lest time i missed on one of the lines and cracked the housing, an expensive mistaketommythanks guys this forum is great

[jumanjii1]

The clipper assembly is no longer needed and was told by an Evinrude mechanic that it should be removed. It was there to protect the circuits but it caused more problems than it solved.

I removed mine and didn't have to move any wires around. The rectifier wires on my Evinrude 60 go to terminals 1, 2 and 3. 3 being the red DC power wire. Of course you know the rectifier converts Alternating current to Direct Current. The Clipper Assembly yellow wires are also attached to the 1 and 2 terminals of the AC from the alternator. On my wiring, the 3rd Clipper Assembly wire went to the Amplifier Assembly purple wire. Anyway just remove the Clipper Assembly and forgetaboutit.

I also have the same solenoid problem, 0 ohm readings on both solenoids. That's not good because that will drain down your 12 volts and cause the fuse to blow. Also the engine won't start due to the low voltage condition. That I know first hand because when troubleshooting a hard starting engine, I removed the solenoids from the circuit and the engine started right up.

I'm in the process of getting new solenoids too, and darn it I broke the cable too, well it was frayed anyway. That cable costs $150, a ridiculous price.

Anyways good luck.