You can use an enamel paint for outdrives but unless you are going to do it right,the paint will be off after the first few uses.Doing it right will require quite a bit more work than most are willing to do to a prop.If you are interested post back.Charlie
I'm interested. I was considering painting the lower portion of my Mercruiser Alpha 1 Outdrive. The paint on the skeg had it out with a sandbar and lost.
you need to clean the prop with acetone to remove any wax or oils, and the prime it with "aluminum etching paint" available almost anywhere spray paint is sold, including here at iboats, right charlie?!?
iboats has "Zinc Chromate Primer" (Recommended for below water line use on aluminum.) and considers it a hazardous material. Paint sells for $8.06 a 12oz can. Shipping is $22.48! I'll have to take a look at the local marinas.
OK here is how you do it correctly.I have done this many,many times and this is the ONLY way the paint will hold up and stay on.Whether it is a prop or an outdrive you must begin with all paint and primer removed.ALL OF IT..You must also be certain to sand all of the edges,super important on props.When it is all gone degrease with any strong cleaner type degreaser like simple green or preferrably stronger Castrol degreaser.When you are done do it again with a scrubbie pad.Next step is to pour or spray white vinegar all over it .Next step is to wipe with thinners compatible with the paint you are using.After doing this only handle the prop by the hub and you must wear clean rubber gloves.This is usually the part that everyone screws up on.They handle it before primimg and painting.Put the prop in the sun so it gets warm or even hot.Use zinc phosphate primer as first choice and zinc chromate as second choice.Make sure the can of primer and paint is also warm and not cool.Leave it in car on a sunny day it will be plenty warm then.Place the prop on a broomstick or similar and place it horizontally with the prop suspended.Keep this in the sun.Spray 1 coat of primer starting with the edges and finishing with the edges so they really get 2 coats with the first coat.This should dry in less than a half an hour if it was not overapplied and it must stay in the sun.Do a second coat the same way and let it dry at least for a few hours in the sun or wait until the following day.I use tempo paint.Again,let the primed prop sit in the sun and coat the same way as you primed.If you use black paint it will bake on really nice in the sun.A light coating works best followed by another while it is barely tacky and apply possible a third coat.Three coats work best for me as long as you dont spray too heavily.After it is painted let it bake in the sun for as long as you can.I put it in the sun for at least 3 days before touching it(I bring it in after the sun goes down)Thats it!!!!!It takes a while to do and has taken me a long time to perfect.Its hard to say if it is worth in for a prop but it is surely worth it for an outdrive.I have found that the edges of the prop is usually a problem spot and thats where the paint first fails and the rest will follow.Dont forget to sand the edges and dont touch,prime the edges and dont touch and paint the edges first and last.Paint and primer should be warm and most important let the sun keep the prop warm to hot and also will MAKE it dry right.The longer you wait after it dries to use it the better.Then wrap the wrench in a rag when putting it back on.Dont chip or scratch the prop when installing.Is all this worth it????It is to me but you will have to judge for yourself.I am sure everyone will have their shortcuts and preferences on how to do this but this is the only method ,after many trial and errors, that worked without any paint loss after an entire season.If you hit a sand bar the first time out you are screwed!!!!Charlie
Thanks CC. My boat is in a dry stack now. I'll give it a try when I winterize the boat. The baking in the sun part could be a problem. I hope the weather cooperates.
If you are going to go through all the trouble of that process,then I would either do it right now while it is warm enough to get the benefit of the sun or wait until spring.Charlie
CC, that sounds like a great way to get it done. I need to do my prop, as well as pretty much my entire motor. I am thinking of makeshifting a small enclosure with a heater, as I think the sun will never shine again, ever. I would think that should work, it will be plenty of heat, and I can just leave it to bake for three days non-stop. What do you think?
Sorry to hear about your lack of sunshine.I guess the heat and baking is the same principle.There is just something about the sunlight that makes the paint and primer dry differently.My experience with using heat usually kept the paint tacky for a long time.Then again,I never left it for 3 days.It may also have something to do with humidity.I can only speak for what I know works.Post back results if you go that route.Charlie
[quote]Originally posted by JasonJ as I think the sun will never shine again, ever. QUOTE]You too? I thought it was just a coast thing this year! INSANE weather here, like winter.Next question...why not just simply use Trilux Primer and Lower Unit/Prop paint? Available in 12oz cans at any boat store, or order from Boaters World. I did that with an acetone wipe down first and it sat in salt for months and looks just fine. The more work ya put into it, the quicker the next sandbar shows up!
Crazy Charlie,Regarding powder coat - I have the Michigan Wheel vortex with the separate hub. I haven't checked, but I suspect the prop without the hub would be metal only and let you use powder coat. The only problem is where to get powder coat ?Question for everyone froma novice - the prop I currently have has a small ding and burrs on the leading edge of the prop. I was going to file the burrs, and knock the ding out on an anvil. Any suggestions on best approach?
Jack,you may be right about the vortex prop.I think there is a black plastic cone shaped piece in it the can be removed.You cant go out and buy powder coat.It is a process that is done and the only way for you to get it done at anywhere near a reasonable cost is if there were a company ,like a patio furniture company,That was already powder coating something and did your prop along with their items.As far as getting your prop back in shape,the only way to do it and have it perfectly balanced is to send it out for recond.You can do pretty good with the filing of the edges and tapping out of a ding,thats the correct approach if you are not concerned about it being perfectly balanced.A dremmel is a good tool for the edges but the file is the safest.The dremmel can be a little aggressive.Charlie
Crazy Charlie,Thanks. The ding is small, and I am using the prop now and nothing is obvious, but I am sure it is not good for the prop / drive.I am going to check some of the local powder coat people to find out the price and other info.
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